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東京国際ミネラルフェア開催日

鉱物、化石、宝石など好きな方は、ご存知の方もいると思いますが。
毎年、新宿のスペースセブンで開催されている『東京国際ミネラルフェア』の日程です。

化石やその年話題になった鉱物などの展示会と、今年は併設で「折り紙で作る恐竜の世界」があるそうです。

それから、こっちの方が楽しみなのですが、世界各国から業者さんが集まって、即売会も開かれます。
普段見ることの出来ないものが見られたり、沢山のモノの中から好きなものを選べたりと、会場内をうろうろしていると、あっと言う間に時間がたってしまいます。


第18回 東京国際ミネラルフェア
平成17年6月3日(金)~7日(火)
http://www5.ocn.ne.jp/~space7/tima.htm
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2005.04.20 Wednesday : comments (599) : trackbacks (0)

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Fans of the luxury retailer are being invited to "Like" their favourite look from the Burberry AW12 show and Harrods will by default include those pieces in the AW buy, which will subsequently be sold in store. </p><p>We have already seen the democratisation of the editor via the rise of social media (i.e. everyone has a public voice that can matter whether it is via Twitter, a blog, a fan page etc.), and in early 2011 the created the world's first crowd-sourced designing experiment with the launch of the Bill Amberg collaboration Calgary tote bag. However, this is the first time that a UK department store has data mined/crowd-sourced publicly in advance of a collection launch/buy (Burberry ran this initiative with Bergdorf Goodman last September in the US). It is an highly pioneering move and will, once again, set Harrods ahead of its peers, positioning the store as a true digital innovator and retail brand leader. </p><p>This move is simply another in the department store's ongoing digital brand growth strategy. Harrods is already ahead of its competitors "socially" from a raw numbers perspective, over the last two years, it has amassed in excess of 165,000 Facebook fans, and over 85,000 Twitter followers - more than any of its competitors, even with regional stores combined. This digital community growth is a result of sheer investment and strategic interaction from the brand. For example, the Twitter feed is live 24/7, managed by an industry leading professional (not an intern), the tone of voice is completely in line with the overarching ethos and personality of the brand and every question and enquiry is dealt with and responded to within minutes, even on a weekend. </p><p>Managing the digital community for a retailer of this size isn't the easiest feat. To do it well, it does require the laborious task of 24/7 community maintenance and interaction, dealing with antagonistic consumer complaints about purchases, customer service and so on, and passing them on to the relevant in-house teams and maintaining a professional public representation of the brand overall. </p><p>Spurning positive endorsement proactively within the digital sphere also come hand-in-hand with the task. Harrods has not only pioneered intelligent digital activity - creating a slick GPS-based smartphone App to help consumers navigate around the store, launching - an online magazine on Harrods.com edited by former Financial Times fashion editor Nicola Copping (another example of how seriously digital editorial is being taken) and live streaming shows but has also proactively fostered digital relationships with key stakeholder on and offline. </p><p>This includes a relationship with another pioneering digital fashion brand, Dolce & Gabbana. Since "giant falling out" in 2010 between Dolce and one of Harrods' biggest competitors which resulted in said luxury department store no longer stocking the brand, Harrods has maximised its digital relationship with Dolce via its digital hub, and relationships with the brand's strong digital team, which has resulted in Harrods being treated as a key media platform with access behind the scenes to Dolce shows in Milan, exclusive Twitter interviews with the brand's models including David Gandy and even meet and greets with Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana. </p><p>The symbiotic relationship between the editorial platforms of two non-traditional media outlets has set an bar for how digital engagement between brand and retailer can be leveraged for mutually beneficial goals. </p><p>Next week's Burberry show live stream partnership will simply be another string to the digital bow that Harrods has every right to wear with pride, and by the sounds of things, there is a lot more in the pipeline for the brand's digital growth in 2012. </p><p>Follow Nik Thakkar on Twitter:</p>eGHZmFyID44mYu00M5dZQhYaAu%2FAmgJCGfYy66NCsZ3y2%2BCd8epkdQj2UKN14xi7V2f6zvgZ4FLzuHlXFqCtvHEMfu8cnurHGtdTrlO6FQ53rI4f%2FNo7oyXAvVcpcAPr4kIuB5Ua5hfpX3jCUjpesONZAp5v%2FZYto0CpL2BNQDbLKBQntDL%2BG2ZKPlg9r%2BFVThe One Direction lads are continuing their quest for worldwide domination - they are set to take to the stage and perform for an international...<p> has linked to yet another beautiful girl - the star was seen driving in a car with Burberry model Cara Delevingne.</p><p>The pair left the Omega House in Soho earlier this week, and looked to be enjoying each other's company as they drove away together.</p><p><br>Bur-eautiful: Cara Delevingne</p><p>A source told The Mirror: </p><p><br>Heartthrob Harry Styles</p><p>An insider added to The Sun: </p><p>The twosome was spotted together earlier this year after they left exclusive Mayfair nightclub Le Baron together and are said to be close friends.</p><p>Delevingne's agent, Sarah Doukas, said of the 19-year-old: "She has the most beautiful face and engaging ­personality, like her older sister Poppy. She is adorable and very talented. She also has the ability to shake up the energy in a room full of stuffy people and make people ask 'who is that girl?'."</p><p>There could be some sibling rivalry, as Cara's older sister Poppy admitted to Grazia she had a crush on the pop star.<br>She said: "I want to sit on Harry Styles' lap. I have a total crush on him. He walked past me at the Aquascutum show recently and I was salivating. I like his curly hair and he looks like a little cherub." </p><p>OpenDyslexic, a free-to-use font created by Abelardo Gonzalez, aims to help people with dyslexia read online content easier. </p><p>The open-sourced font features heavily-weighted bottoms to help give letters "gravity," thus curbing the brain's ability to rotate characters and make them look like other letters, explains the . </p><p>The BBC reports that a recent update to Instapaper, an app that allows users save Web pages to read later,. It has also appeared in word processors, e-readers and been installed on school computers.</p><p>Gonzalez, who released his designs in 2011, said he started to project in order to give people with developmental reading disorder a free alternative. </p><p>There are other, similar fonts being sold that are geared towards people with dyslexia. In 2010 "Dyslexie," a font developed by , was (though not speed) in people with dyslexia in a master's thesis , according to the Boston Globe.</p><p>OpenDyslexic works on the same principle as Dyslexie, except that it is free and open-source. Personal use copies of the latter reportedly cost around $90, while copies for school use may cost significantly more. </p><p>Approximately , according to the Dyslexia Research Institute. </p><p>Check out the new font (below).</p><p>LOOK:<br></p><p>Also on HuffPost:</p><p>We've teamed up with Greta Larkins, the genius behind the brilliant Tumblr in a weekly series of animated fashion shots.</p><p>This week, FashGif takes on this beaded jacket from 's spring 2013 show from . Can we expect to see wearing this on the campaign trail? We doubt it, but it sure would make things even more exciting.</p>Want more? Be sure to check out Stylelist on , and .<p><br>For previous Fashion Gifs, take a peek in our gallery below: <br><br><br></p><p>'The Dictator' has caused chaos on the Oscars red carpet, following</p><p>It all seemed to be going so well. General Admiral Aladeen aka Sacha Baron Cohen was happily giving red carpet host Ryan Seacrest details about his red carpet outfit: </p><p>"Hello Death to the West, I'm wearing John Galliano, with socks by K-Mart. As my friend Saddam Hussein once said to me, socks are socks. Don't waste money."</p><p>But there was an ominous urn in his hands, with the face of North Korean late dictator Kim Jong-il on the front. And so the Dictator carried on:</p><p>"It gave me an opportunity to bring my dear friend and double standards partner Kim Jong-il - it was his dream to come to the Oscars and be spread over the red carpet and Halle Berry's chest again..."</p><p>And then it all went haywire, as the Dictator appeared to trip, and the contents of the urn - about a hundred ashtrays' worth of powder, later reported to be likely to be pancake mix - went all over the thousand-dollar Burberry suit of a mortified Seacrest, who struggled to keep his composure. </p><p>The Dictator was unabashed, comforting Seacrest: "You can say you are wearing Kim Jong-il" - before he was unceremoniously bundled off by security.</p><p>Seacrest addressed the camera and his co-presenters: "I had a feeling he was up to something, I just didn't know what form it would take..."<br></p> <br><p>LONDON &mdash; Luxury goods maker Burberry Group PLC said Wednesday that sales of its signature trench coats and other outdoor wear led a 26 percent gain in full-year profit.</p><p>Burberry reported that net profit for the year ending March 31 was 263.3 million pounds ($415 million), up from 208.4 million pounds a year earlier but still just short of analyst expectations for 275 million pounds. Revenue rose 24 percent to 1.86 billion pounds, and the company raised its dividend by 25 percent to 25 pence.</p><p>Burberry reported double-digit sales gains in all regions. Asia-Pacific is its best-performing region, generating 37 percent of combined wholesale and retail revenue. Outerwear and leather goods accounted for about half of all sales, the company said.</p><p>Burberry shares were down 3.1 percent at 1,343 pence in early trading in London.</p><p>"A combination of profit taking after the recent rally, a weak broader market and results which were slightly shy of expectations has driven the price sharply lower in early trade," said Richard Hunter, head of equities at Hargreaves Lansdown Stockbrokers.</p><p>"Yet the numbers themselves are robust."</p><p>Burberry said it plans to invest at least 180 million pounds this year in new or remodeled stores, including Regent Street in London, Pacific Place in Hong Kong and a rebuilt store in Chicago.</p><p>During the past year, the company opened its first larger format stores in Hong Kong, Paris and Taipei.</p><p>I never gave clothes much thought, but I knew the moment my daughter refused to wear jeans at the age of two because they were "ugly," I was outclassed. And that precious toddler grew up to be my stylish Sarah who now works for Stylelist and lives and breathes fashion.</p><p>Fragrance is an important accessory which serves to amplify and sometimes influence your mood and therefore it needs as much thought as the colour of the bride's dress or the groom's buttonhole. </p>Peter Boucher is commercial marketing director at Vodafone UK, where he works closely with businesses of all sizes and from all sectors to help them to find new and better ways of working. He originally joined Vodafone in 2002, and has since served in global brand marketing, as head of marketing for Vodafone live! and as marketing director and chief commercial officer at Vodafone Hungary. Prior to this, he worked in the food production and pharmaceuticals sectors, for companies including Unilever, Kraft Foods and GSK.eGHZmFyID44mYu00M5dZQhYaAu%2FAmgJCGfYy66NCsZ3y2%2BCd8epkdQj2UKN14xi7V2f6zvgZ4FLzuHlXFqCtvHEMfu8cnurHGtdTrlO6FQ53rI4f%2FNo7oyXAvVcpcAPr4kIuB5Ua5hfpX3jCUjpesONZAp5v%2FZYto0CpL2BNQDbLKBQntDL%2BG2ZKPlg9r%2BFV<p>WWD:</p><p>"I fear I've caused complete and utter confusion," Prince Charles told Burberry's 800-plus staffers who gathered to greet him when he inaugurated the company's new Horseferry House headquarters Thursday morning.</p><p></p> <br><p>When you're a hot 27-year-old prince, wooing the ladies doesn't stop at dinner and a movie. How about a movie premiere, a VIP after party and an even more chi-chi after party later? </p><p>That was apparently 's M.O. this week in London, where he in a shiny blue suit (that we've ). Who was the lucky lady? Reportedly it's Cressida Bonas, a model who was also in attendance at the premiere -- as Harry's date.</p><p>The pair avoided being photographed together (sneaky!), but later they at the Freemasons Hall in Covent Garden and then moved on to Le Salon nightclub in Mayfair. The Sun -- and Harry left just two minutes after her.</p><p>Bonas, 23, and seems to be something of a British socialite; she's the daughter of another model: Lady Mary-Gaye Georgiana Lorna Curzon. Another fun fact: she studied at Leeds University, where Harry's ex Chelsy Davy also studied.</p><p>We know Harry likes his blondes -- , and of course, -- so we won't be surprised if the Prince and the Model become the next .</p><p>Check out pics of Harry and Cressida below!</p><p></p><p></p><p>While we're at it, here are Prince Harry's cutest moments:<br></p><p>Want more? Be sure to check out HuffPost Style on , , and .</p>eGHZmFyID44mYu00M5dZQhYaAu%2FAmgJCGfYy66NCsZ3y2%2BCd8epkdQj2UKN14xi7V2f6zvgZ4FLzuHlXFqCtvHEMfu8cnurHGtdTrlO6FQ53rI4f%2FNo7oyXAvVcpcAPr4kIuB5Ua5hfpX3jCUjpesONZAp5v%2FZYto0CpL2BNQDbLKBQntDL%2BG2ZKPlg9r%2BFV<p>As the UK economic outlook remains gloomy, retailers are venturing further afield to develop international markets. But what is the impact of going global on the UK high street? Miya Knights finds out. </p><p>Where domestic retail sales are stagnating, it is easy to see why UK retailers are looking to foreign shores to boost growth. But what does this trend mean for the future of our local high streets? Technology is playing a central role in driving development forward on both fronts.</p><p>Luxury firms are perhaps the UK's most successful retail export, capitalising on the value of their brands to supplement slow domestic sales with growth abroad. In itself, this is nothing new. The cross-fertilisation of retail brands across regional markets has also brought us many now-familiar UK high street names, such as Gap from the United States, H&M from Sweden and Zara from Spain.</p><p>The difference today is that, while analysts predict virtually flat UK retail sales growth in spite of the usual Christmas boost, many more UK retailers are seeing markedly increased demand in overseas markets which they cannot afford to ignore. Burberry's latest sales figures, for example, grew by 21 per cent in the last quarter of 2011, largely driven by a £210-million (36 per cent) sales boost in the Asia-Pacific region. In contrast, its sales in Europe were up by 20 per cent to £160 million.</p><p>Daniel Lucht, research director for retail analyst ResearchFarm, said the lure of internationalisation was due to the impact of "a very austere economic outlook for 2012". This, in turn, has had the effect of generating a huge move away from debt-financed business growth. "Cash flow is going to be a big issue," says Mr Lucht. "For both retailers and consumers, it will be about not what they want, but what they can afford." He adds that the presence of essential infrastructure components, like communication networks and roads, is often a prerequisite for successful expansion, making countries like India challenging for overseas entrants, despite its rapidly expanding middle class.</p><p>"Most UK fashion and clothing retailers have piled into the Middle East," says Richard Fitzpatrick, director of Retailmap, a specialist retail analysis and competitor monitoring company. "But that is because of a number of large entrepreneurial firms who build and own their own retail properties." The presence of two or three very strong joint venture or franchise trading partners, such as Alshaya, Al Futtaim and Al Tayer, who provide the UK retailers with a complete turn-key solution - logistics, warehousing and access to the biggest shopping malls - have helped add the region to the UK's list of international destinations, alongside Asia.</p><p>Mr Fitzpatrick adds that high-end luxury brands have done well in the Middle East, Asia and also Russia because a growing proportion of their middle classes and super-rich are conspicuous in their consumption. But he says: "The value and budget segment is also probably one of the best UK exports, with the likes of Primark already starting to take Europe by storm. This is where we also see Tesco, George @ Asda, Sainsbury's TUI, Matalan and even New Look expanding."</p><p>Across 50 UK clothing and footwear retailers, surveyed by Retailmap in 2011, each traded in an average of 11 separate countries and had an average of six outlets per country. Some retailers had a much wider global exposure. Topshop, for example, is in 29 countries, yet even this UK high street fashion stalwart only averages five outlets per country. By comparison, Tesco operates in nine countries but it has an average of 250 stores per country in each of the grocery and own-brand clothing brand markets it operates in. "It is little surprise that in central Europe, Tesco's F+F clothing brand is one of the market-share leaders," says Mr Fitzpatrick.</p><p>"A UK high street chain with 200 or 300 stores is looking for greater economies of scale and efficiencies than any small joint venture or franchise investment can deliver," he says. "H&M, for<br>example, does 25% of its business in Germany alone." To put Topshop's global presence into perspective against the weak domestic market, its owner Sir Philip Green revealed recently that it was looking to close 250 to 260 stores from its 2,500-strong UK estate over the next three years. This will pave the way for ambitions to expand the Topshop brand further overseas.</p><p>The consequences of such strategies do not bode well for the UK high street. The government's recent retail review by TV retail guru, Mary Portas, found less than half the UK's retail spending is now on the high street and that this figure is falling.</p><p>But the lure of overseas profits need not necessarily sound its death knell. Technology can help span the miles between head office and the flagship store on the other side of the world, or automate finance reporting and administration with country-specific software rules. But it is the explosion in internet shopping, and its relatively lower operating costs and higher margins that have really been fuelling not only international UK retail ambitions, but also domestic ones too.</p><p>But, in some cases, UK retailers like Next are switching their international expansion plans away from opening lots of new overseas stores to setting up foreign language and international currency online shops. Perhaps, if eCommerce was as mature a decade ago, the cautionary tale of Marks & Spencer's experience would not have seen it unceremoniously pull out of its first foray into France, where it had operated 18 stores. Undeterred, it re-launched there last October, but with its first international transactional website, which the retailer said was part of its bricks-and-clicks global approach, preceding the opening of a flagship Paris store a few weeks later. </p><p>Success is, in fact, by no means assured abroad or even at home, in stores or online. Just think of the ill-fated Carphone Warehouse and Best Buy joint venture. The US electronics retailer last year ceased trading through 11 Best Buy UK stores, at the cost of some 1,100 jobs. Significantly, services spanning multiple channels, such as click and collect or reserve in-store and deliver to home, are becoming more popular in the UK where internet trade body, Interactive Media Retail Group (IMRG) recorded a significant rise in the percentage of click-and-collect online sales in the third retail quarter of 2011. </p><p>Accounting for 10.4 per cent of all UK eCommerce sales in the period, this merging of retail sales channels becomes all the more important in prospective foreign markets that also have a higher proportion of digital natives with multichannel expectations.</p><p>Adam Stewart, marketing director of Rakuten's Play.com, predicts: "In the year ahead, cutting-edge mobile devices, worldwide mobile and broadband penetration, and innovative social shopping services will open up global markets, providing huge growth opportunities for merchants large and small, and unparalleled consumer choice." Play.com, one of the UK's largest internet retailers, was recently acquired by Rakuten - the "Amazon of Japan" - for £25 million.</p><p>The question is though, will UK retailers be able to keep up? Take Japan, the world's most digitally advanced nation, for example. According to IDTechEx research, 47 million Japanese adopted smartphones with tap-and-go payments functionality in three years, making its adoption of mobile payments technology one of the fastest roll outs of electronic products in history. Super-fast broadband speeds and 4G enable in-store ordering direct from a customer's smartphone, along with localised, targeted promotional offers and the widespread use of Quick Response (QR) codes.</p><p>The influence of the tech-savvy multichannel consumer and UK retail experience in more advanced multichannel markets is already making its presence felt on our local high streets. Women's fashion company Oasis is equipping staff with iPads to boost service levels and assisted sales, as well as reduce lost sales from out-of-stocks, for example. Ish Patel, strategic development director at Oasis' parent Aurora Fashions Group, points out that fast smartphone adoption is paving the way for mobile or mCommerce to help blend traditional physical and emerging online channels.</p><p>In this way, lessons learnt from going global may also help UK retailers better mind what is at home, despite the fact they may be strategically focused on distant shores.</p><p>This article orginally appeared in a special report on The Future of Retail, produced by Raconteur Media and published with The Times (UK). Please see www.raconteuronthetimes.co.uk for further articles from this report.</p><p>Follow Raconteur Media on Twitter:</p><p></p><p>LONDON - They say weather is a national obsession in Britain — but perhaps more for Burberry Prorsum's Christopher Bailey than for most.</p><p>With a clap of thunder and a torrent of realistic rain running down the sides of a glass tent, the luxury brand's creative chief sent his umbrella-toting models down the catwalk in a finale that brought a smile to everyone's face.</p><p>Burberry, which stages its twice yearly runway shows in its own temporary Hyde Park tent, is the biggest and glitziest production during London Fashion Week. On Monday, the autumn and winter 2012 display drew a huge crowd of buyers and spectators, including a host of international stars such as Hollywood actress Kate Bosworth, celebrity photographer Mario Testino, and even Korean pop group Girls' Generation.</p><p>"I quite like celebrating rain," said Bailey, who has been credited with revitalizing the once-fusty fashion house and boosting its international style credentials. He's also known to create a spectacle using weather elements: Last year, he filled his catwalk with fake snow.</p><p>"I like the romance. I quite like the melancholy," he said of the rain.</p><p>It wasn't just the rain that was British — much of the detailing on the clothes was, too. There was velvet quilting, corduroy, herringbone wool and tweed caps, riding jackets and skirts, and of course various incarnations of the brand's most famous garment, the trench coat.</p><p>Bailey said the collection was a study in merging city style and country living. Bridle leather straps, shearling parkas and the use of quilting were evocative of the horse-riding country lifestyle of the English upper class, while the appearance of cute owl drawings and appliques on some of the collection's T-shirts and sweaters, as well as gold metal fox belt buckles, were a fun and quirky take on the "country" theme.</p><p>"I like the idea of celebrating the country, celebrating the town," Bailey said after the show.</p><p>A huge range of coats and jackets made up much of the collection. Some were cinched in with candy-coloured belts with bows, while others had masculine tailored shoulders and large pouches. Cropped, down-filled puffer jackets were paired with tweed ruffled pencil skirts, giving the ladylike look a sporty twist.</p><p>The most striking coat was the one Bailey chose for his finale — a quilted, belted creation in deep royal purple, cinched in at the waist but flaring out in a full skirt.</p><p>Colours were rich and autumnal, with mustard, burgundy, black currant and forest greens, while wide horizontal stripes in grey, navy and honey kept the look young and vibrant.</p><p>"I like it because it's British and I'm British," joked Leah Weller, a 20-year-old singer and model, who added that she was particularly fond of the gold-studded black gloves and clutch bags on show.</p><p>———</p><p>Associated Press writer Raphael Satter contributed to this report.</p> <br><p>He may be the world's one and only male supermodel, but David Gandy is also the most humble, sweetest most down to earth guy you could ever hope to meet. Despite being in an ego driven industry, this boy has his feet firmly on the ground.</p><p>I met him last year at the annual Scottish Fashion Awards and we hit it off. He was in town again for the 2012 Awards and very kindly invited me to afternoon tea. It wasn't all smooth sailing I nearly had to cancel because of my school run, but thanks to my dear, sweet friend Morna Rose we made it happen. And thanks to my wonderful hairdresser and make up artist Zak Coldicutt who moved appointments around to accommodate me.</p><p>Despite the fact that I was twenty minutes late and that the tea had gone cold, David was still as hot as ever, and shrugged off my tardiness in a gentlemanly manner. I blame the fabulous Celebrity Stylist Derek Warburton who had whisked me off to the Diamond Studio to style me for the Fashion Awards. En route back to the Blythswood Hotel we ran into Fashion Editor Janis Sue Smith and the lovely Patricia Fraser. When Derek's around there's no such thing as stopping to say a quick hello, five minutes quickly turned into fifteen.</p><p>But like I said to David the best things in life are worth waiting for.</p><p>We chatted all things Scottish Fashion Awards and about his fabulous new fitness app. This is his second year in town to support the Awards.</p><p>"I am a huge believer in supporting British fashion. Scotland has a huge amount of fashion talent. You just don't realise it until you are working in this industry and you end up meeting so many Scots. So it's fabulous that Tessa has set up this Awards ceremony in order to give them recognition and also to celebrate their great talent."</p><p>"We have got such great heritage, such great fashion, Westwood, Savile Row, Burberry, Pringle it's such a shame everyone is so keen to hotfoot it to Milan, Paris etc when we have so much going on here. I don't think of it as Scotland and England I think of it as Britain as a whole. If we didn't think of it as separate we could be a fashion giant. People just don't realise how much money fashion brings in. If we concentrated our efforts we could truly be a great Britain."</p><p>"I try to promote Britain as much as possible; I try to wear British made clothes. For the Awards I will be wearing a Marks and Spencer's jacket that cost £99, it's a great cut, and lovely fabric. I wear a lot of Reiss and Topshop as well. It should be about the high street and not high end."</p><p>"I love coming to Glasgow, there's a much more relaxed atmosphere here, compared to London where there's a great deal of snobbery. People always ask me where I get my dark looks, I once said I have some Scottish heritage and it's totally stuck."</p><p>David is constantly asked where he gets his clothes and how he maintains such a fabulous physique. And trust me, this example of human perfection does not require photoshop. But thank god he's not like every other model you meet that say they can eat anything and still look great. David is very honest and admits he works hard to maintain this special level of perfection.</p><p>"I have to work at my body; I have to work a lot. Over the years I have worked with some of the best personal trainers in the business, and I have discovered there is no magic pill, no cheat's way. It's not about dieting; it's about changing your lifestyle. I am not suggesting cutting out all fats. I am suggesting that you look into nutritional guides etc, you have to research and change your lifestyle, learn what your body type can and cannot handle."</p><p>"I know what works, I am the evidence of what works. And I have put together all my knowledge into this new app. It's all the knowledge I have gained over the years through trial and error of what works for my body. It's very user friendly, it's not complicated, there are no silly diagrams. We have videoed all the moves, you can also Facebook it. I've also added a nutritional guide, because it's very important to cover that as well."</p><p>Three unknown facts about David:<br>He's very articulate, not just a pretty face<br>He's an absolute gent<br>His favourite tipple is English Breakfast tea</p><p></p><p>www.davidgandyfitness.com<br>davidjamesgandy.blogspot.com</p><p>Exposure to back-lit electronic devices, such as tablets, before bedtime could lead to sleeplessness, suggests a new study.</p><p>A two-hour exposure to self-luminous displays may cause melatonin suppression strong enough to affect sleep by disturbing the body's natural circadian rhythm, a small new study in the suggests.</p><p>“Our study shows that a two-hour exposure to light from self-luminous electronic displays can suppress melatonin by about 22%. Stimulating the human circadian system to this level may affect sleep in those using the devices prior to bedtime,” said study author Mariana Figueiro, in a statement.</p><p></p><p>Melatonin is a hormone produced by the body when it’s dark to encourage sleepiness. </p><p>Suppression of melatonin by light has been implicated in sleep disturbances, increased risk for diabetes and obesity, as well as increased risk for more serious diseases, such as breast cancer.</p><p>Participants in the study used self-luminous tablets to read, play games, and watch movies. While one-hour exposure to tablets caused little affect, after two hours, melatonin levels dropped significantly.</p><p> </p><p>Figueiro said in a statement: “We recommended dimming these devices at night as much as possible in order to minimize melatonin suppression, and limiting the amount of time spent using these devices prior to bedtime.”</p><p>WASHINGTON -- A slew of new polls shows Newt Gingrich leading the race for the Republican nomination, both nationally in three of the first four primary and caucus states. However, a close reading of both the recent polls and a recent focus group of Republicans shows that rank-and-file Republicans are far from a final decision. </p><p>Gingrich has certainly experienced a surge in support. Two new national surveys from and Fox News now show Gingrich with support in the mid-30-percent range and a wide lead over Mitt Romney and the rest of the Republican primary field. The current estimate produced by the , which is based on all available public polls, gives Gingrich a lead of 37 to 20 percent over Romney, with the rest of the Republican field in single digits. </p><p></p><p>The rise in support for Gingrich has also been evident in the early primary and caucus states. Gingrich now leads on a half dozen new polls in , and three recent surveys in . The former speaker is leading by even wider margins on recent polls in Florida conducted by , and . </p><p>Romney continues to lead in , but the most recent shows his support falling from 40 percent in late October to 35 percent last week. Meanwhile, support for Gingrich in New Hampshire has jumped to the mid-20-percent range on four recent surveys. </p><p>Although a plurality of Republicans now prefers Gingrich nationwide, it is also evident that most Republicans remain uncertain about how they will vote in their primaries or caucuses next year. The CNN/ORC poll conducted in late November, for example, found just over a quarter of Republicans (27 percent) said they would definitely support their first choice, with the rest either willing to change their minds (67 percent) or still completely undecided (6 percent). </p><p>Decision-making is farther along in the early primary and caucus states, but not by much. The Time/CNN surveys found just over a third of Republicans (between 34 and 39 percent) willing to say they are certain to support their first choices in Iowa, South Carolina and Florida, and only slightly more (44 percent ) in New Hampshire.</p><p>A of Republican primary voters, conducted last week by veteran Democratic pollster Peter Hart as part of a sponsored by the Annenberg Public Policy Center of the University of Pennsylvania, helps put these results in context. </p><p>While a focus group is not a survey -- its non-random recruitment and small sample size cannot provide a statistically representative view of any larger population -- the 12 voters from suburban Fairfax County, Va., who participated provide a richer view that helps flesh out the survey findings. </p><p>The Republicans in Hart's focus group found much to like about Gingrich. Virtually all rated him as highly competent, someone who they described variously as "experienced," a "great debater," the "smartest one running," someone who "stands firm in his beliefs," "get things done" and can "completely turn the ship around." </p><p>They were less enthusiastic about Romney, but still had praise. They lauded his "family values," said he "did a nice job at the Olympics" and as governor of Massachusetts, and called him a "politician" who is "good at it." </p><p>But the participants could also list many thing that troubled them about both Romney and Gingrich. Regarding Gingrich, some expressed concern about his personality, that he's "careless and combustible" or that "he's behaving himself in this campaign right now and saying what he's supposed to." Some participants worried that "his hands are already too dirty...with his experience and how he got there" or that "he has been in side the Beltway for a long time." Still others feared he might "give up some of his beliefs to get things done," that "something will come up in his marriage," or that "issues with his affairs will blow up like Clinton."</p><p>Misgivings about Romney began with the perception that he "goes with whatever people want to hear," and is "wishy-washy," "vanilla" or "manufactured." They complained that "he doesn't have the conviction, too phony," that he will "flip-flop," is a "R.I.N.O. -- Republican in name only" and that "repealing Obamacare will not be a priority."</p><p>In short, while these voters were more enthusiastic about Gingrich, it was also clear that they remain in the process of making a decision and are far from decided. When Hart asked whose vote was still "up for grabs," half raised their hands. At the same time, many indicated they had already narrowed their choices to some degree. Most, for example, said they had already ruled out supporting Herman Cain -- who dropped out of the race two days later -- and others had ruled out Paul or Perry, or even Gingrich or Romney. </p><p>The narrowing of choices among Republicans is also evident in a completed a week ago. They found that majorities of Republicans consider only Gingrich (62 percent) and Romney (54 percent) to be "acceptable" nominees for president. Even though Rick Perry, Ron Paul and Michele Bachmann well enough to rate them, between 52 and 58 percent of respondents now regard these candidates as "unacceptable" presidential nominees. </p><p></p><p>So for many Republicans, the race is narrowing to a choice between Gingrich and Romney, but it's a choice that often remains tenuous. According to Gallup Editor in Chief Frank Newport, 35 percent of Republicans on the same survey consider both Gingrich and Romney to be acceptable nominees, while 81 percent consider either candidate acceptable.</p><p>Last week, Peter Hart reflected on the fact that, while only two focus group participants walked in as Gingrich supporters, 7 were ready to vote for him on the way out. "Here we are a month away," Hart said. "Boy there's gonna be a lot of volatility." </p><p>The survey data says he could be right. </p> Subscribe to the ! <br>In Your Fifties : Hair and Skin Care<br><br>Out of curiosity, I added up the price of the recommended skin care and hair products. The total was $211.00. As a woman in her early fifties, I would like to recommend the following products.<br>No way would I pay $100.00 for a skin correcter, even if it is Lancome. Clinique has a skin corrrecter<br>for less than half the price of the Lancome product. I've used it with good results, before my moisturizer.<br>LiftActiv Derm Source by Vichy is $45.00. A company called Yves Rocher makes a similiar product<br>for less money, I believe. Yves Rocher can be ordered through the mail and on line at their website.<br>I don't wear eye shadow anymore, however, when I did there's no way I would ever pay $48.00 for<br>eyeshadow. Lastly L'Oreal Color Shampoo for $18.00. Patene makes a Color Protecting Shampoo<br>for about $8.00 plus tax and the whole Patene Color Line is very good and a lot less expensive.<br>I'm not saying that Lancome, Vichy, Estee Lauder and L'Oreal are not good products. I'm sure<br>they have good products, but not every woman can afford their products and stay within her<br>budget for skin care, make up and hair care. I'm retired now, so I have the luxury of doing comparison<br>shopping of various skin care, make up and hair care. I hope this post has been helpful in some way.<p>Almost every retailer now has the expertise to use Facebook to grow consumer awareness of their brand, however, there are only a handful of retailers that have truly monetised Facebook and extended its reach from a sharing space to a retail platform. A number of retail commentators have argued that whilst connecting with the consumer through social media is key, the monetisation of Facebook as a standalone platform has not happened, and will possibly never be a success. </p><p>This argument originated in the US after online retailers posted poor sales forecasts after Christmas from F-commerce sales. The argument focuses on the fact that Facebook is where people come to connect with their friends - and sometimes brands - but they do not go on to buy from Facebook pages and never will. I disagree with this sentiment entirely. <br> <br>I do agree that F-commerce is in its early stages, however it should not be dismissed; I would go as far to say that ignoring it could have a detrimental effect on a company's bottom line in the near future. To understand my argument, you only have to look at how technology has transformed the way people shop over the last 15 years, and subsequently how the evolution of technology will continue to change consumer habits. If you combine this with the need for Facebook to continue to diversify its revenue streams, I believe Facebook itself will push for F-commerce to be a success, as it's a natural progression/transition.</p><p>I also have reason to believe that Facebook will become an influential sales platform. As CEO of BrandAlley, an online retailer that specialises in designer 'flash sales', I have seen first-hand how F-commerce works; it has both driven sales and further engaged our Facebook followers. Since launching our F-commerce platform late last year, it already generates five per cent of sales and this is set to rise over the coming year.</p><p>It was 10 years ago that people questioned whether online shopping would become a viable platform for retailers, but with online sales generating £68.2bn last year and counting for 17% of retail sales in the UK, it is clear that the consumer will continue to look online to make purchases. However, I believe that with the increase in people using social media platforms and accessing the internet on their mobile phone or tablet device, customers will begin to move away from the traditional homepage and seek sales in other locations. </p><p>Other retailers are with me on this argument. For example, Burberry has committed 60 per cent of its marketing budget on online and social media channels and companies as diverse as Procter & Gamble, Levi's and Delta AirLines have committed to selling their product or services on Facebook. <br> <br>The evolution of how the consumer shops will undoubtedly have a positive effect on F-commerce but how Facebook pushes the concept itself will also heighten the success of the platform. With Facebook's recent floatation, there is now a push from its shareholders to grow and further monetise Facebook and I believe F-commerce will form part of its growth plans. It is likely that Facebook will encourage brands to have fully functioning online stores. At first this will be free but eventually they will ask for a small percentage of the sales once they have consumer buy-in. <br> <br>So, how do you convert a growing fan base to buying your product? I think the answer is relatively straighforward in that you simply need to give them a reason to make that first jump into spending on the site. Exclusive previews or sales plus competitions are the easiest ways to quickly engage the consumer. Admittedly BrandAlley's flash sale format has helped us convert our customers into buying through Facebook. For example, we held an exclusive preview sale recently with 7FAM (Seven for all mankind) onFacebook which accounted for 50% of revenue for that particular sale. </p><p>A few years ago it was only a select few retailers who saw the importance of engaging with their customers via social media platforms. Now social media is very much part of the marketing mix but retailers need to start being commercially aware and monetising Facebook. I do not believe that F-commerce will overtake any other e-commerce platform right now, but when you have a captive audience of people who you know are interested in your brand, then the next logical step is to directly sell to them. Web users spend one in every eight minutes on Facebook which only goes to show the future and need for retailers to capitalise on this.</p><p>Facebook users may be in 'share mode' with their friends at the moment but I believe it is only a short time before they are in 'spend mode', buying their favourite brands through F-commerce.</p><p>For nearly 50 years, sat as an arbiter of fashion by publishing a yearly list of the 10 Best and Worst Dressed People in the Demi-monde. Although best known for his "Worst Dressed"list, he maintained a successful career as a fashion journalist. Richard Blackwell was a powerful syndicated columnist who wrote features in newspapers and lifestyle magazines. Matrons and starlets, stockbrokers and models, politicians and prize-fighters all jockeyed to be included. Blackwell's critiques could be cutting. Being included in Mr. Blackwell's Best Dressed list could quickly improve one's social standing in New York, Miami or Hollywood while being included in his worst dressed list could doom one to social Siberia.<br><br></p><p>Although Mr. Blackwell has gone on to his maker, we here at the STONEzone revived this hallowed tradition four years ago. We have vigilantly watched the world of entertainment, sports, politics, academia, art and fashion to determine who has style....and who truly doesn't.<br><br></p><p>Therefore, we proudly present our FIFTH ANNUAL 10 BEST AND WORST DRESSED PEOPLE IN AMERICA list for your consideration.<br><br></p><p>Compiling such a list is a far greater challenge than one might think. The advent of "casual fridays" is symptomatic of an overall decline in our standards regtarding what is right and wrong about the way Americans dress. Sadly, fashion today is more motivated by economics than aesthetics. Men are seen in both business and social settings in running shoes, tracksuits, sweats, T-shirts, and caps, which advertise either a sports teams or a brand of farm tractor. Women are seen outside the gym in spandex workout ensembles and hoodies. Women actually leave their homes with a Victoria Secret slogans on their ass.<br><br></p><p>Americans cared deeply about proper dressing in the 1930s, 40s and even the 50s. The 60's, a decade fashion forgot, also began a trend of informality that devolved over time from slovenliness in the 90's to dishevelment in the 2000's. The sheer number of men who will go out in public in a wife-beater is staggering. Very few can look like a young Marlon Brando but men still crowd casinos, bars, malls and sports events in this "outfit."<br><br></p><p>Our goal is to sort out those who are merely fashionable from those who possess real style, for fashion is fleeting and style endures. We also try to eschew "costume." That's why you won't find Lady Gaga or Tom Wolfe on our list. While both are distinctive in their dress, both are affecting a costume more appropriate for the stage. While fashion is about fads and what is "in" now, style is a personal factor that cannot be learned or taught - either you have it or you don't.<br><br></p><p>Style is, in fact, the direct opposite of fashion. Fashion is a look that is temporarily "in". Fashion is people imitating each other. It's about fitting in and looking like everyone else's Style. Fashion, on the other hand, is about individuality; what sets one apart from the crowd. Real style comes from within; it is the sign of your character and personality that you display to those who see you. Style never indulges fads or gimmicks.<br><br></p><p>Style is timeless. Style looked good thirty years ago and will be in good taste thirty years from now.<br><br></p><p>True style is never studied. It manages to make it's own statement heard above the temporary fads of fashion. Style requires good taste, individuality and a certain nonchalance, what the Italians call "Spezzatura." It is the art of dressing distinctively without looking like any thought or planning has been put into the final look. Being "thrown together," but perfect. It is said hoofer Fred Astaire threw his new custom made fine cut English suits against the wall repeatedly to "knock the newness out of them".<br><br></p><p>Finding our 10 Best and Worst Dressers requires careful study. The dressing of our citizens hasn't improved much in 2011. There are among us no Jack Kennedys or Gary Coopers, no Katharine Hepburns or Marlene Dietrichs, Instead we have Cee Lo Green, Jack Black, Snooki, or anyone of the Kardasians.<br><br></p>10 BEST DRESSED MEN OF 2011Joseph Gordon Levitt - The hot young actor is new to the Best Dressed list. He's developing a personal style that evokes a cool updated 50's Rat Pack look. White short point collared shirts, skinny black ties, narrow lapels with dark fitted suits teamed with a pork-pie hat mark Gordon Levitt as a hipster but a perfectly turned out hipster at that. He pulls of the monochromed shirt-tie-suit look without looking like Joe Pesce in the movie "Las Vegas".<br><br><p>Charlie Watts - When band-member Mick Jagger was wearing sequin tights and oversized Uncle Sam hats, the Rolling Stone's drummer was quietly going to Poole and Dege, two of Savile Row's oldest tailors. The result is somber, perfectly-fitting and low key suits that are as solid as his back-beat. Watts is as fastidious as Keith Richards is disheveled.<br><br></p><p>Larry Kudlow - The CNBC Talk Show host and ardent supply-sider makes our list for the fourth year in a row. Kudlow's sense of dress shirt, suit and tie combination is always right, and interesting. Kudlow show some whimsy with pink and patterned neckwear. New York Tailor Leonard Logsdail makes Kudlow's impeccable fit. The knot of his necktie is always so. The economic analyst and pro-growth advocate sets a standard other men can aspire to.<br><br></p><p>Gordon Woodrow - The long time top level Republican U.S. Senate staffer, Presidential appointee and businessman dresses like a country squire. He teams hefty tweeds with tattersall, checks and plaids and brown suede shoes, sometimes with a bright sweater-vest. Large knots the size of your fist in heavy wool ties. Woodrow always looks like he just came from shooting grouse or skeet on the Moor.<br><br></p><p>Prince Philip - Husband of the Queen Elizabeth II. Prince Phillip, born Prince Philip of Greece and Denmark, The Duke of Edinburgh, is long-time a client of Gieves & Hawkes Ltd, the venerable London tailor who's house style has military lineage. Phillip, father of Prince Charles, who prefers a double-breasted look made for him by Anderson and Sheppard, was rushed to the hospital with chest pains only weeks ago. The Duke has his dashing military dress uniforms made by Johns & Pegg Ltd, his kilts by Kinloch Anderson Ltd, and shoes and boots by John Lobb. Affectionately called "Charlie the Greek" by his country-men, no one can compare with Prince Phillip at Ascot. We wish him a speedy recovery from heart surgery.<br><br></p><p>Alan Flusser - The men's wear designer Alan Flusser knows more about men's clothing than perhaps anyone in the world and his taste level and flair make him the authority. Author and arbiter Flusser is an advocate for all that is correct and refined. Flusser is the designer other designers secretly emulate. The late saloon singer Bobby Short, a debonair dresser himself, consulted Flusser. Whether in a double breasted beaded stripe suit or with a scarf knotted ascot-style around his neck, Flusser is sartorial perfection.<br><br></p><p>Johnny Depp - Second year on the list. Last year we said "Now, rockers and actors, and those in the creative field can get away with things the rest of us cant, but Depp's dark look, his affection for hats and a minimal but tasteful jewelry land him on the list. Scruffy but never too scruffy, it's a look Depp has perfected. "No one has looked this good in a short brimmed straw fedora since Sinatra.<br><br></p><p>Jacob Stein - Few men can pull-off the bow-tie without looking like Pee Wee Herman or Malcolm X. Fox Talking head Bob Beckel from "The Five" was recently on-air with what appeared to be too perfect clip-on. Only clip ons that squirt or spin should been worn and then only if you are a comedian. Bow ties should never be perfect or prissy. They should be slightly askew, tousled and imperfect. Washington power lawyer Jacob Stein, lawyer for Monica Lewinsky, pulls this off like nobody else. Seen on K street, the dapper Stein always looks great. The DC barrister's wife owns a consignment shop and Stein clearly choses quality vintage pieces to mix into his traditional wardrobe.<br><br></p><p>Dave Beckham - Great tailoring is meant to hide imperfections, making the fat look thinner, the short look taller, hiding a paunch etc. In Dave Beckham's case none of that is necessary. His body and level of fitness are incredible. Not every man can wear a vest (what the Brits call a waistcoat) without looking like a riverboat gambler or John Foster Dulles. Beckham pulls them off along with smartly cut suits, newsboy caps, classic aviator sunglasses and perfectly tied scarfs which make him stand-out when he's he not semi-nude or in a soccer uniform.<br><br></p><p>Josh Mankiewicz - Hitting our list for the second year, this NBC Dateline reporter tops Brokaw, Lauer and Williams. His two-button natural shoulder suits are always fastidious, his shirts and ties chosen with care. His look is quiet, understated and always low-key. The length of his collar points chosen to compliment his face, are always accented with the perfect pocket-square in a puff that looks like he stuffed it in his breast pocket without a thought.<br><br></p><p>Bill Clinton - The ex-President wasn't much of a dresser when in the White House, buying off-the-rack and wearing the clothes of Donna Karan, who designed what a woman thought a man's clothes should look like. Since his heart surgery and becoming a vegan Clinton's inner pea-cock has revealed itself. Clinton has largely dumped the big shouldered double breasted suits than made him look blocky for three piece-models that accentuate his weight loss. His new look is dignified yet natty--what we want an ex-president to look like. Check out Clinton's photo on the cover of which outlines a path ahead for America and is designed to submarine Obama, who Clinton neither likes or respects - deep blue suit, silver tie and perfect fitting vest. Hail to the Ex-Chief!<br><br></p><p>LIFETIME AWARD: Willie Brown - From his hand-crafted Brioni suits to his extensive collection of hats, the former California Assembly Speaker could be the best dressed man in America. While most men should avoid brown as a suiting color (Philadelphia Brahmin Biddle was once asked why he had over 200 identical bespoke blue suits. "Because brown looks like shit," he replied) Willie brown pulls it off in both double-breasted and three piece vested models. As Mayor Brown sometimes changed clothes as many as four times a day for his various public ceremonies. A master of color-coordination, Brown's shoes, suit, shirt, necktie, hose and chapeau always complement each other.<br><br></p>The Worst Dressed Men of 2011Michael Moore - Looks like he slept in the Occupy Wall Street tents even though he didn't. Looks like he slept in his clothes and might have. The man gives the word "slob" new meaning. Oversized sweatshirts just make a fat guy look fatter. Slovenly. While we're at it, how about a shave?<br><br><p>Larry King - Thank God, this man is done in primetime. What is with the black shirt, black ties, black suspenders look? Who does Larry think he is - Johnny Cash? Even worse - the black shirt and white tie. Even Lucky Luciano wouldn't wear that. Larry actually wears clip-on suspenders. Clip-ons. Wise up Larry.<br><br></p><p>Simon Cowell - Fourth year on the WORST list. Man-boobs should be hidden not accentuated . This guy still looks like a wax pear that sat on a radiator too long. I swear he is buying out of the International Male catalog. A pinstriped suit with a shawl lapel? He's from the U.K and can afford the best. Rush this man to a proper tailor.<br><br></p><p>Jesse Ventura - Since leaving the governor's chair he looks like a homeless Hulk Hogan. The bald with a ponytail look is so...still bald. Jesse wants to be the Libertarian Party nominees for Vice President but there is no real support for him. Hint: If you are going to go on TV with outlandish conspiracy theories don't wear outlandish clothes and try washing your hair occasionally.<br><br></p><p>Chuck Schumer -This guy is a schlub. Schumer has been seen in the Senate wearing the same baggy-kneed, wrinkled suit and dress shirt and pilling sweater vest three days in a row. New York has some of the greatest tailors in the world. The senior senator needs to call one. Daniel Patrick Moynihan, who once held a US Senate seat from New York, was a dandy who fancied bold striped suits, polka-dotted bow ties and jaunty Irish walking hats. Schumer dresses out of the Salvation Army.<br><br></p>10 BEST DRESSED WOMEN OF 2011Natalie Portman could wear a garbage bag with an old rope around the waist for a belt and still look stylish. Portman is just one of a growing number of celebrities whose basic budget-friendly choices make them seem more relatable and down-to-earth than stars who drop thousands for a single, wear-it-once dress so fashion consultant picked out. For last year's Golden Globes she chose a simple pale pink dress decorated with a large red rose which flattered her body shape perfectly, a red Dior clutch and a pair of red platforms. Always well put together and elegant.<br><br><p>Pippa Middleton - Philippa Charlotte "Pippa" Middleton, the English socialite and younger sister of Catherine "Kate" Middleton embodies the best in English style and has elbowed her sister off our list this year. Since she was the maid of honor at her sister's wedding to Prince William she's surpassed her sister as a style-setter in the U.K. Some say she has a perfect derriere and in jeans, a mini-skirt or a party dress it seems so. Take that Kim Kardashian!<br><br></p><p>Blake Lively - The Gossip Girl star has legs that go on forever. If she's sporting a short skirt she hides the cleavage. If showing the decolletage she sheaths her legs in a long dress - in other words, Lively knows when too much is too much. Liveley knows purple just "works" for her as a color and she wears it a lot-meaning she knows what she looks good in.<br><br></p><p>Carly Foulkes - You know her as The T-Mobile Girl. The Canadian-born model and actress wears a summer dress like no one else. Foulkes is the "picture-perfect" brunette. Saucy, stylish and comfortable, she could get us to buy a phone or just about anything else. Always looks like she's ready for a picnic on a beautiful day.<br><br></p><p>Carla Bruni - The wife of the French President has a style that is continental, chic, and understated. Although Italian she may be the single best ambassador for French couture. Her look is spare and simple and accentuates clean lines. No flashy or bright colors works for her. Blues, grey, charcoal. Cutting edge chic.<br><br></p><p>Sophia Loren - Although she is seldom seen in public these days, when she is seen she wears high end Italian couture like no one else. This raven haired beauty is somehow sexier in her clothes than she would be au natural. If you have seen photos of her in a garter belt and silk seamed stockings, you have seen feminine perfection.<br><br></p><p>Eva Mendez - Two Latin spitfires make our list this year. For Sofia Vergara look below. Let's face it. Mendes could wear a shower curtain and she would still look good. The woman oozes sex yet never makes it tawdry. Ms. Mendes has a skin tone that allows her to choose any color, but which works particularly well with pastel colors. Mendes knows her body and selects outfits to accentuate it. Mendes is sultry and stunning, always.<br><br></p><p>Emma Watson - A stylish little hottie, the English actress who broke through in the Harry Potter films has graced the covers of Teen Vogue, the UK's Tatler and Italian Vogue. Watson cares about clothes and supports the British Fashion Industry in high style. Her choices are sure-footed. She has twice been chosen as the face of Burberry. Twiggy and Mia Farrow never looked this good in closely cropped hair.<br><br></p><p>Jennifer Aniston - This woman knows what she looks good in. She sticks to a short skirt and strappy heals because she knows it looks best on her. She rarely changes her hairstyle because she has a looks that works for her and sticks to it. Aniston has always been an example of impeccable style and hardly ever gets it wrong with her looks, both on and off screen.<br><br></p><p>Sofia Vergara - Usually seen on the arm of boyfriend, banking heir and someday politician Nick Loeb, Vergara has a strongly Latin influenced style that always has her looking chic on the red carpet or on the streets of Manhattan. The star doesn't shy away from her signature curve-hugging clothing. Equally stunning in jeans, dresses and colorful tops, Vergara wouldn't be caught dead in cut-off jean shorts proving you can be sexy without being vulgar.<br><br></p>The Worst Dressed Women of 2011Snooki - Last year when we said his girl has "a big all natural Italian rack" we were inundated with complaints. Seems the Jersey Shore gal isn't Italian.<br><br><p>Julianne Moore - Sadly this actress has no sense of coordination and can't piece together an outfit to save her life.<br><br></p><p>Christina Aguilera. - When one gains weight one must adjust the size and color of one's clothes to accommodate. This singer doesn't seem to understand that. Tight fitting clothing accentuates fat, doesn't minimize it. A female sausage about to pop.</p><p>MyDaily:</p><p>Rosie Huntington-Whiteley - the official Burberry Body - attended the Burberry Paris Boutique opening at the British Embassy in Paris today. And she was wearing Burberry, natch.</p><p></p> <br>eGHZmFyID44mYu00M5dZQhYaAu%2FAmgJCGfYy66NCsZ3y2%2BCd8epkdQj2UKN14xi7V2f6zvgZ4FLzuHlXFqCtvHEMfu8cnurHGtdTrlO6FQ53rI4f%2FNo7oyXAvVcpcAPr4kIuB5Ua5hfpX3jCUjpesONZAp5v%2FZYto0CpL2BNQDbLKBQntDL%2BG2ZKPlg9r%2BFVeGHZmFyID44mYu00M5dZQhYaAu%2FAmgJCGfYy66NCsZ3y2%2BCd8epkdQj2UKN14xi7V2f6zvgZ4FLzuHlXFqCtvHEMfu8cnurHGtdTrlO6FQ53rI4f%2FNo7oyXAvVcpcAPr4kIuB5Ua5hfpX3jCUjpesONZAp5v%2FZYto0CpL2BNQDbLKBQntDL%2BG2ZKPlg9r%2BFV<p>From interactive ad campaigns to the world's debut 'Twit-walk' (catwalk via Twitter) Burberry has always been something of a trail blazer when it come...</p><p>We got a quick preview of the campaign from a a print photo. But now Rosie Huntington-Whiteley and Ryan Reynolds' ad for Marks & Spencer is here -- and the two gorgeous stars look, well, gorgeous.</p><p>The hazy video is simple but effective -- the director of the video didn't need to do much beyond instructing the actor and Burberry model to each give their best smoldering stares.</p><p>And how they smolder. , Ryan makes us believe he's only got eyes for Rosie as they walk the London streets. And who wouldn't?</p><p>Check out the ultra-romantic ad for Mars & Spencer's Fall/Winter 2011 collection below. </p><p>WATCH:</p><p></p> <br><p>www.mydaily.co.uk:</p><p>Looks like Marks & Spencer have added a touch of Hollywood sparkle to their Autumn/Winter 2011 campaign, which reveals Rosie Huntington-Whiteley and Ryan Reynolds as the impossibly attractive new faces of the British brand.</p><p>Following in the footsteps of other celebrity M&S spokesmodels, which include Twiggy, Dannii Minogue and Lisa Snowdon, Rosie and Ryan front the new Autograph campaign - the high street store's luxury in-house label.<br></p><p></p> <br>Missing from the article are photos of models at the launch of the lingerie today, so I went to RHW (Rosie's twitter) and took a look. In amongst the comments of praise for the line, were also ...."nice to see curvy models for a change, not stick think ones". <br>Curvy? So I looked again, and wondered if the so called curvy ones are representing the 'plus' demographic. Certainly representing women that have a teeny bit of shape anyway, as her bra line goes to a "G" size. <br>Another comment on RHW was... "why do none of the models look happy?" A mystery to me, as the fashion world trains their models to look bored, and barely conscious. There's a smile in there somewhere, but for some unknown reason, it might detract the buyer from purchasing if they were to see a truly happy person. <br><br>Onto the headline for this article "Rosie covers up..." Odd choice for her to wear a very severe black dress better suited for going to a funeral than a lingerie launch.<br><br>Her lingerie line overall looks elegant and tasteful.<p>www.mydaily.co.uk:</p><p>Rosie Huntington-Whiteley seems to be having a nude moment. First she had pulses racing in her plunging Burberry suit earlier this week, and now she's been perched front row at New York Fashion Week, in another flesh-hued ensemble.</p><p>The model-actress was snapped hanging out backstage at the Michael Kors show, in this perfectly coordinating, Sixties-inspired outfit of shift dress, knee-high boots and matching clutch...</p><p></p> <br>Louis Vuitton Outlet is famous for the unique articules ,login Louis Vuitton Online Store and Louis Vuitton Handbag On Sale to buy your articles.Louis Vuitton Handbags have become the best seller in international market.such as Monogram Multicolore,Monogram Canvas Handbags.We also offer you other platforms.Owing to the various styles and models, up-to-date styling,elegant appearance,full range of colors and designs,quality and quantity assured,The bags in Louis Vuitton Outletand Louis Vuitton Online Store sell very well both at home and abroad. Now, Login Louis Vuitton Handbag On Sale to choose your favorites. What's more,the latest commodities are renowned all over the world for exquisite workmanship, skillful knitting and elegant design,famous for selected materials, novel designs, delightful colors and exquisite workmanship. For more relevant information, please login Louis Vuitton Outlet!<p>When we think of American flag shirts, we usually think of or those Fourth of July tees churned by Old Navy instead of chic style.</p><p>But British model Rosie and her boyfriend Jason Statham hit Miami Beach yesterday to catch some rays American style, and we have to say... the look becomes a whole lot sexier on a supermodel.</p><p>Rosie slipped into a pair of dark shades to go with her blue bikini bottoms and a cut-off flag tee and she and Jason wove through a crowd on onlookers in Florida. Hmm... maybe it's a tee?</p><p>Check out photos of Rosie's look below and tell us: are you feeling her patriotic outfit?</p><p></p><p></p> <br><p>www.mydaily.co.uk:</p><p>Burberry have just announced their new scent 'Burberry Body'. It's billed as the brand's most sensual fragrance to date and will be fronted by model du jour, Rosie Huntington-Whiteley.<br></p><p></p> <br><p>www.mydaily.co.uk:</p><p>Rosie Huntington-Whiteley had temperatures soaring when she hit Macy's in New York last night, to celebrate the launch of the new Burberry fragrance.</p><p>The model-actress slipped into a sleek nude Burberry suit for the occasion, which featured a daring plunge neckline. And of course, Rosie being Rosie, opted to go sans shirt. (Or bra, by the looks of things.)</p><p></p> <br><p>Rosie Huntington-Whiteley loves wearing a trench coat.</p><p>So it's the ultimate irony that her new fragrance ad, which will continue to catapult her already-rising star, finds her removing a trench coat till she's wearing almost nothing at all. "This particular trench was amazing because it was silk and just felt amazing on the skin," the British model tells us. "I think that one had a sort of mink lining... which was really sexy," she adds, laughing. </p><p>Alas, for the sexy commercial, Huntington-Whiteley had to take it off -- almost entirely. "There are certain tricks," she laughs, explaining how she manages to undo the coat, roll around and somehow never reveal more than a generous hint of skin. </p><p>The ability to pose nearly naked with confidence is something Huntington-Whiteley learned from years modeling, including her turn as a Victoria's Secret Angel. She was less familiar, however, with acting, something she needed to learn quick as the female lead of this summer's "Transformers 3." </p><p>"Well I didn't have much time [to prepare]," she tells us about making the action flick. "It was like, from the moment I was asked to be in the film to my first day on set was about two weeks. So I didn't really have much preparation time, and there wasn't a finished script for me." </p><p>She added, "Physically it's very demanding -- you know you're running for like days and days on end, and you get bruises and cuts and scrapes and you fall and you get up." (When asked whether she would do it all again for a possible "Transformers 4," Rosie replies, "Absolutely.")</p><p>[Read more below]</p><p></p><p>Her new gig, thankfully, requires no falling, no running and certainly no bruising. As the face for Burberry's Body perfume, Huntington-Whiteley rolls around seductively in the aforementioned silk-and-mink trench coat, selling the shiny new fragrance for the British fashion house. </p><p>She also sold it last night at Macy's in Herald Square, where (wearing more than she wears in the commercial, but not by much). Last night's posing was easy, as it barely compared to the giant press tour she and Shia Labeouf endured for "Transformers 3." </p><p>It was on that long tour around the world, at photo calls and red carpets, that we saw Rosie wear an array of stunning dresses. Her favorite? Her gown for the movie's UK premiere in London, for which Burberry's creative director Christopher Bailey custom-designed her dress. "I said I want a Michelle Pfeiffer, 'Scar Face' dress," Rosie laughed. , she said, "I felt like a million dollars."</p><p>The only thing that could have possibly made it better, perhaps, would have been a guest-appearance by a royal -- one in particular. "I'm waiting for my proposal [from Prince Harry]," , admitting to a giant crush.</p><p>? How could she be attracted to those lame moves?</p><p>"I love a bad dancer!" laughs Rosie. "Most British men are bad dancers."</p><p>WATCH:</p><p><p><p></p> <br><p>She's baaaack!</p><p>After spending her year doing seemingly anything but runway modeling -- , and, oh yeah, -- Rosie Huntington-Whiteley has returned to the runway. </p><p>Walking in Sao Paulo Fashion Week (which, , is happening right now -- it can be hard to keep track!), Rosie took two turns for Animale, a line designed by Priscilla Darolt. </p><p>Although Rosie looked as natural as ever out on the catwalk in Brazil, it had been a while. The British model this past year with the explanation "I'm working that day" (on what we don't know) but her angel wings were missed.</p><p>It was refreshing seeing Rosie in something other than lingerie, however. Could this be the year she conquers not only the tabloids and the red carpet but high-fashion's runways as well? We think she's up to the challenge. </p><p>Plus she's gotta find some way . </p><p>Check out Rosie's runway return below.<br></p><p></p> <br><p>MyDaily:</p><p>The supermodel and face of Burberry Body was snapped in Miami Beach with her long term BF Jason Statham yesterday. While clearly we are well jels of Rosie's amazing abs, we have to admit her beach style is très chic.</p><p></p> <br><p>Model and actress Rosie Huntington-Whiteley has been chosen as the body -- er, face of Burberry's newest fragrance, Body. </p><p>, which features Huntington-Whiteley showing off her famous figure wearing nothing but a satin trench by the iconic British brand. </p><p>The "Transformers 3" bombshell , "To be asked to be the first 'Burberry Body' is an amazing compliment." </p><p>A compliment you probably don't even need, of course, </p><p>Burberry Body will debut on September 1. .</p><p></p> <br><p>The unveiling of , normally released in December, is a ways away. But dedicated to , which celebrates its 40th birthday this year. </p><p>And why not? The models are all featured stark naked in warm-weather locales... seems more appropriate for August, anyway.</p><p>Unfortunately for those hoping for a sneak peek of 2013's big shoot, GQ Germany's spread is devoted to vintage pics from past calendars. The winning shot? A , posing with her back to Terry Richardson's camera in nothing but lil' shorts. Mysteriously, her nipple seems to have pulled a disappearing act...</p><p>WARNING: The photos below contain full-frontal nudity and may not be safe for viewing at work.</p><p>Other models to earn spots in the retrospective include Naomi Campbell, Natasha Poly and Ana Beatriz Barros, who does the sexy-messy-eating thing with a hunk of watermelon dribbling down her chest. [Ed. note: do men even find this sort of sloppiness attractive?] And a Pirelli retrospective wouldn't be complete without a vintage Kate Moss photo -- although there are plenty to choose from, GQ Germany's fave was from 1994, shot by Herb Ritts.</p><p>While on first glance (and second and third and fourth glance...) the photos simply show beautiful naked women naked, GQ Germany's roundup nicely juxtaposes the unique shoots, from to Mario Testino's souped-up glam in 2001, allowing the differences between the models, photographers and even historical eras to shine through.</p><p>See? Looking at topless models in GQ is so totally educational.</p><p>Check out plus some of GQ Germany's favorite vintage shots below.</p><p>NSFW PHOTOS:</p><p></p><p></p><p>Want more? Be sure to check out HuffPost Style on , , and .</p><p>Rosie Huntington-Whiteley has tweeted the first photos of her with her Mad Max 4 co-stars Zoe Kravitz, Riley Keough and Adelaide Clemens.</p><p>The quartet recently arrived in Namibia to start filming their roles as wives in Mad Max: Fury Road.</p><p>Rosie Huntington-Whiteley posted a picture on her Instagram account of herself and new Mad Max co-stars Zoe Kravitz, Riley Keough and Adelaide Clemens</p><p>The model-turned-actress - who got her start in Hollywood when she appeared in the third Transformers movie last year - will also be sharing the screen with Charlize Theron and Tom Hardy in the action flick, with Hardy taking over from Mel Gibson in the role of Max.</p><p></p><p> for her role as Furiosa in the film. She and Tom Hardy were first attached to Mad Max 4 in 2009, but it was postponed after a number of production setbacks.</p><p>She told</p><p></p><p>The fourth Mad Max film comes 27 years after the last instalment, Mad Max Beyond Thunderdome.</p><p></p>Residence: New York, NY, US <br>Hometown: Devon, England <br>Height: 5'9" <br>Eye Color: Blue <br>Date of Birth: April 18, 1987 <br>Agency: Women Model Management <br>Campaigns: Abercrombie & Fitch, BCBG Max Azria, Burberry, Clinique, DKNY, Levi's, Topshop, Victoria's Secret<br><br>Rosie Huntington-Whiteley is often compared to other models, from Kate to Gisele to Natalia, but we think she's making quite a name for herself and needs no comparison.<br><br>Born in Devon, England, on April 18, 1987, Rosie is the oldest of three children and a distant relative of Queen Victoria. She was discovered in 2003 while attending Tavistock College. Always interested in fashion, she had her sights set on a career behind the camera until she walked into London's Profile Model Management looking for a little work experience. Instead of giving her an internship, the agency quickly signed her. <br><br>Rosie modeled locally for about a year before signing with Women Management in 2004; she landed on the covers of ELLEgirl and Teen Vogue that same year. Since her bright beginning, Rosie has appeared in many monthlies, including Elle and Japanese, Spanish, Chinese, Italian, and British Vogue, in whose November 2008 issue she was featured alongside Eden Clark and Jourdan Dunn in a feature celebrating the newest crop of British models. <br><br>As for campaigns, Rosie has worked with Tommy Hilfiger, Abercrombie & Fitch, Paul Smith, DKNY, BCBG Max Azria, Clinique Happy, Burberry, and Victoria's Secret. <br><br>Not a girl to be confined to glossy pages, Rosie is at home on the runways as well, having made her debut in September 2004 in the Nicole Miller and Vivienne Tam shows in New York. She continued her tour of the runways for Dsquared2, Just Cavalli, Moschino, Valentino, Betsey Johnson, Oscar de la Renta, Paul Smith, and Elie Saab in 2005. And 2006 and 2007 saw Rosie walking for Heatherette, Max Azria, Vera Wang, Marchesa, and Rock & Republic.<br><br>Fashion is not just Rosie's day job: She is a trendsetter on and off the runway, rocking such signature looks as short hemlines and of-the-moment clutches. She made waves at the 2008 Metropolitan Museum of Art Costume Institute Gala, to which she wore Burberry. Actually, she manages to make style waves no matter where she goes, most often at the hottest London parties and fashion events worldwide. This English girl lives in London and loves surfing as well as the green movement, having joined up with Green Thing, a new online community, to make the world a better place. Other Rosie favorites: steak, chips, and Diet Coke.<p>Rosie Huntington-Whitely struck a seductive pose in for fall's Mario Testino-shot Burberry Body campaign.</p><p>But the British beauty has taken a more demure turn in ads for Marks & Spencer's latest Autograph collection, which hits stores today. The images see Rosie, 24, getting cozy with Ryan Reynolds, a decade her senior. </p><p>The model radiates classic elegance in a ladylike rose-hued blouse, seasonal staples like a chunky knit sweater and versatile blazer.</p><p>Rosie that the British high street store gives her pangs of nostalgia for her English upbringing.</p><p>What do you think of the images? We like that they have a hazy, cinematic look, which is fitting given Rosie's .</p><p>We also can't argue with the selection of easy-on-the-eyes Reynolds as Rosie's on-camera partner.</p><p>Check out the photo below -- what do you think of the pair?</p><p></p> <br><p>Burberry, the luxury British outerwear maker, will reveal all its looks via Twitter today, prior to the designs featuring on the runway. </p><p>The luxury brand is set to show at Kensington Gardens at 4pm, but in the brand's signature democratised fashion, fans from around the world will see the designs before key editors and guests at the runway show. </p><p>In an interview prior to London Fashion Week, that digital media is just as important to the brand as fashion design. </p><p>He said: "Burberry is now as much a media-content company as we are a design company, because it's all part of the overall experience. It's very important to consider new technologies with a light approach. Facebook, for example, is not just a mailbox. You need to keep it going, add content, create a genuine, non-deceptive relationship."</p><p>The runway show will also be l. London Fashion Week has an extensive digital schedule, . </p><p>Fans of fashion, and observers of digital media application, can follow . London Fashion Week runs until Wednesday, when male fashion will take over from five days of womenswear. <br></p> <br><p>, who is best known for playing Ron Weasley in the , has always been overshadowed by his co-stars. not only rid the wizarding world of He Who Must Not Be Named, but he has also had a successful theater career, and even took it all off for the lead role in "Equus." , on the other hand, has been embraced by the fashion world. In addition to landing the cover of Vogue, Teen Vogue, Marie Claire, Elle and now T Magazine's September issue, the has and .</p><p>So, back to Grint. Although he may not have quite the fashion cred of , the British-born actor has solidified his off-screen look. Whether walking the red carpet or doing errands, you can expect to see the child star wearing his uniform: a graphic t-shirt, blazer and dark slacks.</p><p>To celebrate Grint's 24th birthday on August 24th, we're taking a look back at how his style has changed (or hasn't changed) over the years. Which one of his blazer/tee combos is your favorite?</p><p>Want more? Flip through our many other and be sure to check out Stylelist on , , and .<br><br></p><p><br></p><p>Academy Awards producers are certainly regretting their decision to allow Sacha Baron Cohen to attend the award show in full "Dictator" regalia, after he .</p><p>"Ryan was visibly upset about the stunt but managed to keep his composure," an E! insider told me. "It's not only that Sacha used Ryan in a desperate attempt to get publicity for his film; it's the fact that the joke was just not funny."</p><p>But Seacrest didn't seem too torn up over the fumbled urn. </p><p>"My mom always told me to pack two jackets for red carpets, always wondered why. Now I know," . But behind the scenes, no one at the Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences was laughing.</p><p>"It's the Oscars, for God's sake," an A-list TV presenter told me. "It's just not the time nor the place. We were all amazed that the academy allowed him to walk the carpet dressed like that in the first place. But after the incident they were livid. Unless he ever gets nominated for something, you can expect to never see him invited back again."</p><p>Jennifer Lopez was one of the first celebrities to talk with Seacrest after the incident, checking that her "American Idol" friend was okay. It turns out that it takes a lot more than Bisquick mix to stop Seacrest from asking that all-important question, "Who are you wearing?"</p><p></p><p></p> <br><p>On the opening night to the fashion world's biggest week, Fashion Night Out turns the streets of New York City into runways, the neighborhoods into the most trendy block parties and the stores into music venues. With celebs like Helen Mirren, Dwayne Wade, Justin Bieber, the Kardashians, Beth Ditto, Anna Wintour and even the enigmatic Banksy running around, you never know who you will be rubbing shoulders with. With everything open to the public, it's a free-for-all adventure through fashion and what the latest trends will be with the attention on every store trying to outdo their competition as to who will deliver the best party and attract the most faces. With name DJs supplying the soundtrack to each venue and free alcohol flowing like water, the choices as to what to do can be intense and overwhelming. <br><br>My night was made simple as the British buzz band, (and a band I have tipped to be one of the "") were flown in from Burberry to play at their SoHo flagship store and coincidentally would be the bands first American gig. I caught up with the lads from the tiny town of Morcombe who were wide-eyed about their maiden voyage to the city. "I am just thrilled to be in the city that gave us The Shang-Ri-La's and The Ronnetts!" bassist Deaks told me as I met with the band before their big gig. The band played two sets at the Burberry store to a packed audience who were curious to see a live band rather than someone spinning records. "Just last week were all crammed in a small room sleeping and recording together, now we have been put up at Tribeca Grand, I just can't believe this!" singer Matthew Whitehouse told me. Funny enough, Whitehouse is also a Burberry model, so the pairing of such a great brand and band was just inevitable. </p><p>The excitement the boys of The Heartbreaks had was displayed in the two 20-minute sets they played at Burberry. Set number one was as if they were their own opening act, showing off their sound and style to the audience who were fascinated with this new band. "This song went to number 482 on the Billboard 500 here, we are very excited to play it," Whitehouse told the audience before they broke into the catchy "Jealous, Don't You Know." The sound of The Heartbreaks is very British, so it was only fitting that Burberry was their debut performance. They are four very dapper gentlemen who make fantastic Britpop meets surf rock chic of music. While set one saw them introduce themselves, it was their second set that really had them cooking. With champagne flowing in the crowd and the band really breaking out of their shells, it was then that they had arrived in perfect fashion. "It is not really a proper gig, but it's cool," drummer Joseph Kondras told me after the gig. "We are really excited to hopefully come back now after we put our record out, we can't wait to get the record out," he continued. The Heartbreaks trip to New York City was short-lived but the excited and wide-eyed band will return home with their heads held up high. They are currently in the studio recording their debut with Frank Turner's producer Tristan Ivemy. The record is expected to be released in March and from the sound of it already, they should get used to being spoiled and having big things come their way. <br></p><p>Follow Salvatore Bono on Twitter:</p><p>The UK's first lady, Samantha Cameron, never attempts to hide her interest in A-list fashion shows. In fact, style is part of her job: she's the ambassador for the British Fashion Council, after all.</p><p>Last year, SamCam and other shows, and she also that was graced by the likes of Anna Wintour and Tom Ford. </p><p>And this year, she continues her sartorial streak, popping up at A-list shows and hanging with fashion's biggest names.</p><p>In a Jonathan Saunders green top paired with a black suit, she perched front row at both Burberry and Christopher Kane shows on Sunday. Later, she in a gorgeous pink frock and camped out next to Anna Wintour and Salma Hayek -- the latter of who was attending her first ever London Fashion Week show.</p><p>We can't wait to see where SamCam will show up next!</p><p>PHOTOS:</p><p></p><p></p><p>Related on HuffPost:</p> <br><p>The designer dress worn by Prime Minister David Cameron's wife to last year's royal wedding is being auctioned for charity.</p><p>Samantha Cameron was described as one of the best dressed guests when she wore the green, silk teal Burberry dress to the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge's nuptials, accessorising it with a dazzling orange scarf, statement necklace and nude shoes.</p><p>The garment will be sold to raise money for Save the Children.</p><p><br>The Burberry dress is being auctioned on eBay</p><p>Mrs Cameron said: "Save the Children do amazing work here in the UK and internationally.</p><p>"By taking part in the Born to Shop auction, the public can do their bit to help Save the Children make a difference to the lives of children all over the world.</p><p>"I love the Burberry dress I wore to the royal wedding, and am thrilled that I have been able to donate it to the Save the Children Born to Shop auction."</p><p>Fashionistas have eight days left to bid on the eBay auction to secure their piece of fashion history.</p><p>Launched on September 13, #bidboutique, Save the Children's first online auction in conjunction with both eBay and The British Fashion Council is supported by a host of celebrities and designers, including Preen, Erdem, House of Holland, Alexander McQueen and Piers Atkinson.</p><p>The Born to Shop #bidboutique online auction is part of the No Child Born to Die campaign which aims to stop the needless deaths of more than 7.6 million children every year.</p><p>With the money raised from the auction, Save the Children will be able to deliver life-saving aid to children in some of the world's poorest countries.</p><p>The Brits are here!</p><p>Britain's prime minister David Cameron and his wife, Samantha Cameron, finally touched down on this side of the pond on Tuesday to mark their long-awaited visit to the United States.</p><p>And of course, we were anxious to see what Mrs. Cameron, who's somewhat of a style icon, would be wearing, and we got our answer: a Burberry trench coat, Joseph trousers and L.K. Bennett shoes -- a favorite of -- </p><p>Despite her all-black ensemble, SamCam looked cool in the sun as she alighted from the plane with her husband, British prime minister David Cameron.</p><p>The Camerons spent the day with the Obamas in Washington before the president and the prime minister jetted off to Ohio for a basketball game.</p><p>While the boys , FLOTUS and Mrs. Cameron attended a mini-Olympics event with local school children at American University's Bender Arena. SamCam looked pretty in the she wore in February for her Fashion Week party at 10 Downing Street. Mrs. Obama opted for a frilly chartreuse cardigan by L'Wren Scott with very chic wide-legged trousers.</p><p>This wasn't the pair's first rendezvous; they at 10 Downing Street together (we know, SO cute!) and apparently swapped fashion tips, as </p><p>Check out all the pics below!</p><p></p> <br>With the polka dot trend in full swing and as today happens to be the anniversary of the last Mickey and Minnie Mouse cartoon strip Walt Disney ever scripted, it gives me a tenuous enough reason to celebrate some animated fashion via Lazy Oaf's revisiting of Minerva's iconic look.I agree with you. I don't know what the hype is. I find her incredibly unattractive in fact, borderline ugly. <br><br>If you take her features apart, the only thing that is pretty on her face are her eyes, their color, her mouth is okay. <br><br>But the entire package is lame. <br><br>I used to work in the city, where they'd occasionally film an episode by my work place, where I'd see her on occasion, she was skin and bones! too thin, even for my taste.<br><br>They do dress her beautifully though, and that's the only thing that she has going for her in terms of beauty.<p>Art director Christopher Lee Sauvé's impeccable style radar and youthful vision have won him a diverse and enviable client list of New York's finest, boasting names from Alexander Wang to DVF via W Hotels and the New York City Opera. However, it's the collection of 'scandalous' T shirts for his eponymous line that is making waves right now.</p><p></p><p>CLS has taken the rebellious cheeky controversy-courting spirit seen in his infamous 'Save Anna' shirts (in support of US Vogue's legendary Editor-In-Chief, Anna Wintour, when it was rumoured she was to be ousted from her Condé Nast throne) to a new level with this unisex range inspired by various designer and celebrity gaffes, making something so right from some things that are generally a bit wrong.</p><p></p><p>Featuring hand drawn illustrations of their subjects with details of the scandal scrawled and cut'n'pasted alongside in a truly punk fashion, CLS brings us some fun, tongue in cheek Ts that include Lady Gaga and the Meat Dress vs Peta, Karl Lagerfeld and Tom Ford's anti-fatty rants, and Madonna's controversial gun-heeled shoes. </p><p></p><p>Check out the whole range, which is available to buy at £60 per shirt, on 's site - an amazing little site that brings the best in cutting edge and emerging New York and Los Angeles design talent to the UK - </p><p><br></p><p>Follow Sarah McGiven on Twitter:</p><p>Clumsies beware! White is going head to head with red in the colour battle to be this year's Christmas No. 1. </p><p></p><p>The Autumn / Winter 2011/12 catwalks were awash with snowy looks from top designers including , £665), Alexander McQueen, Yves Saint Laurent and Hermes.</p><p></p><p>As prepares to open its White Wonders concept store, I had a sneak peek at some of the pieces designed exclusively for this Wonder Room pop up which, if - like me - you're an accident magnet and a slave to the dinner medal, you'll be pleased to hear includes a host of amazing alabaster accessories.</p><p><br>Burberry Pattison jacket, £995</p><p>From a milky (£895) and Givenchy tote (£1,165) to a fitting Tom Ford White Musk candle and glitteringly sleek make up set from MAC, switching its signature black packaging to fit with the achromatic theme, the White Wonders collection is filled with gorgeous gifts and some seriously covetable clothing (the and Burberry trenches in white for men and women - HELLO). Brit Artist Marc Quinn, whose 2008 golden Microcosmos Siren sculpture of Kate Moss in a complicated looking yoga pose recently made headlines after reportedly fetching over $900,000 at auction, has also put together a capsule range of products for the store as well as a new installation which will be on display - hopefully no frozen blood heads this time.<br></p><p>I'm not sure whether I should have included this before I've got my own hot little hands on them as they're guaranteed sell outs (again), but in the spirit of seasonal sharing check out these festive L'Oreal sets which are also Selfridges exclusives. If you're a product junkie, you're going to want to be all over the - a fantastic diet alternative to the usual chocolate variety - which contains 24 mini treats from the likes of Lancome, Kiehls, Shu Uemura and YSL. There's also a genius version (£38) - mini screwdrivers and fortune telling fish be gone! </p><p></p><p>If you're brave enough to try to pull off the winter white trend on a clothing level it might be wise to make like Victoria Beckham (who also has a specially designed bag in the White Wonders collection) and match your beverage colour to your outfit to minimise staining dramas - mmmm Starbucks steamed milk with an almond shot... <br> <br><br>My favourite footwear pieces - all white Dr Martens & some classic retro Moonboots (£135)</p><p>Some White Wonders items are available to purchase now from but if you want to see the full range, the White Wonders Concept Store opens on 28th October and will be located within the Wonder Room on the ground floor of Selfridges' Oxford Street flagship. <br></p><p>Follow Sarah McGiven on Twitter:</p><p>Coachella officially kicks Music Festival season off in the US this weekend and, as the UK's Summer Festivals loom large, there's one thing you can guarantee - rain. Luckily, designers and retailers, ever quick to herald their Festival Fashion trends, have finally caught on to the fact that floral dresses, a plaid shirt and some cut off denims aren't really where it's at. What modern festival goers really need are cool, lightweight, at least shower-proof jackets and ideally ones that can be screwed up at the bottom of your backpack or tied round your waist when that sun decides to show itself. </p><p>Pac-a-macs have enjoyed a huge resurgence recently but can get a bit 'boil in the bag' so thankfully now there are some serious yet practical fashion options available that are perfect for everyday too and come in this season's cheeriest shade - bright, citrus-y, sunshine yellow. Here's my pick of some of the best rainwear out now, and a selection of cute wellies - including the inspired Moschino Cheap And Chic 'Wet-A-Porter' boots for Net-A-Porter.com - to go with them.</p><p></p><p>Top Row: , £1,400, , £395, , £550, , £300, , £95,.</p><p>Bottom Row: , £125 from , Ilse Jacobsen soft shell water repellent coat, £110 from , Paddington Bear shower proof parka, and if you don't fancy going all out yellow, you can rock a hint of primary with this unisex - I have this, it's awesome - for half price! Now £55 from .</p><p></p><p>Top Row: , £235 from, in White, £110 from , , £125, exclusively from .<br>Second Row: Left and right - £95 from Coggles.com now plus Poste Mistress Covent Garden and Harvey Nichols from May, and centre - Aigle Yellow Chantebelle boots, £80 from .<br>Third Row: , £85 (Top Tip - try Marc by Marc Jacobs stores 'Special Items' section for cheaper versions of these in a variety of colourways without the fitted style), , £125, , £250, all from.<br>Bottom Row: Aigle lightweight foldable wellingtons - roll them down to stash them in their own little carrier, £75 from .</p><p>Follow Sarah McGiven on Twitter:</p>She's borderline Tranny. The dress is too tight and looks exaggerated , especially with her breasts looking like they're about to explode.The hair is too sleek for the size of her head. She's got a large head and large features squeezing that type of statuesque body into a gress that's so detailed exaggerates what's already exaggerated by nature. The fingernails and the toe nails should match. Is that a daytime dress? She definitely looks like a transvestite.<p>LONDON &mdash; It looks like for some designers, next spring is fashion's moment to shine &ndash; literally.</p><p>Metallic leather, shiny satin and foil-like fabrics in rainbow colors dazzled on the catwalk at Burberry Prorsum Monday, reinforcing a trend that already saw lashings of sequins and space-age style designs earlier in London Fashion Week.</p><p>Burberry, which typically puts on the most extravagant and celebrity-studded display during the week-long style extravaganza, went for flamboyant luxury for its latest spring collection. The catwalk was packed with iridescent swimsuits, metallic leather trench coats and satin corsets, and the palette was that of precious metals and gemstones: Gold, silver, emerald, turquoise and ruby.</p><p>"I wanted to do a collection that makes people smile," creative director Christopher Bailey said after the show. "I want it to be joyous, a bit sassier and sexier."</p><p>The show's front row guests included boy band One Direction's Harry Styles, burlesque actress Dita von Teese, "Slumdog Millionaire" star Dev Patel and tennis player Andy Murray.</p><p>Bailey opened with a structured white silk cape draped over a rose gold bodysuit with fine ruching.</p><p>Coats &ndash; especially Burberry's signature trench coats &ndash; featured prominently, but there was also a notable move toward capes and a puffy, button-less cocoon jacket shape.</p><p>Standout variations on the cape included one in silver leather, draped over an emerald shift dress, and another in clear orange plastic trimmed with python leather.</p><p>The repeated pairings of capes with corsets was inspired by early 1900s photos from the Burberry archive, Bailey said.</p><p>Meanwhile, trench coats were reimagined in a luxurious gold lace, a hot pink-to-red ombre, and in the finale, a rainbow of metallic textured leather in shiny fuchsia, purple, cobalt and bronze.</p><p>That same shiny colored leather was seen on the bags, too, paired with matching shades of clear plastic.</p><p>Burberry's Bailey wasn't the only one bit by the shiny, metallic bug. Holographic material and full-on sequined party dresses appeared at Jonathan Saunders, Topshop Unique had silver paired with white organza, and Preen's show featured metallic lace.</p><p>Scottish heritage brand Pringle also featured plastic details, though it was only a nod. The brand, best known for its fine argyle knits, updated frumpy `50s crew neck twinsets with vibrant colors like jade and canary yellow, and embellished them with geometric plastic beading.</p><p>Pringle, which presented its collection in a hotel room instead of on a catwalk, also featured a host of pretty sorbet shades, the other trend for next season. Knits and jackets were made in soothing hues of dove grey, lilac, pale lemon and powder pink.</p><p>Also showing on Day Four were Christopher Kane, Erdem and Peter Pilotto. The action will be winding down on Tuesday, the last day of womens' wear previews at the fashion week.</p><p></p><p>THE CANADIAN PRESS -- VANCOUVER - Three Canadian companies have been ordered to pay roughly $2.5 million for selling knock-off Louis Vuitton and Burberry handbags in what a Federal Court judge describes as an "egregious" case of trademark infringement.</p><p>Vancouver-based companies Singga Enterprises Inc. and Carnation Fashion Company, along with Altec Productions of Toronto, were accused of importing, manufacturing and selling handbags bearing Louis Vuitton and Burberry logos.</p><p>Louis Vuitton and Burberry filed their lawsuit after using private investigators for two years to visit warehouses and purchase fake handbags in person and online.</p><p>Judge James Russell said all three companies were involved in large-scale importing, manufacturing and selling of fake handbags and took steps to cover up their actions.</p><p>"All of the defendants' previous and ongoing actions are clearly knowing, planned and deliberate," Russell said in a written judgment posted to the court's website this week.</p><p>"The defendants have also attempted to deliberately conceal or cover up their wrongdoings, avoiding dealing with unknown individuals, obscuring domain name ownership and switching websites, and/or hiding such goods from view of the public or anyone entering their premises."</p><p>Neither Singga nor Altec appeared at hearings in the Federal Court last year, and neither provided any evidence to dispute the allegations.</p><p>Both companies were accused of running the counterfeit operations out of storefront warehouses and online. They also worked together, with Singga sending customers to Altec and receiving commissions in return.</p><p>Altec has continued to sell counterfeit bags online despite the ongoing court case, Russell said.</p><p>"Given the egregious nature of their activities, the normal trademark and copyright profit or damages assessments would not be sufficient, and punitive and exemplary damages should be awarded," Russell wrote.</p><p>"This is particularly true with the Altec defendants, who have blatantly continued their activities notwithstanding commencement of this proceeding, and have ignored the process of this court."</p><p>Singga was ordered to pay a total of nearly $850,000 to Louis Vuitton and Burberry, including $200,000 in punitive damages. Altec was ordered to pay about $1.2 million, including $250,000 in punitive damages.</p><p>Carnation owner Jessie Guo did appear at the hearings and admitted she was selling fake bags, though she insisted she wasn't familiar with Canadian trademark law. She also denied having any connection to Singga.</p><p>Lawyers for the fashion houses said Guo had been co-operative during the legal process and described her operation as significantly smaller in scale than Singga and Altec. Her company was ordered to pay $390,000.</p><p>"Guo gave me the impression that she may have learned her lesson and she expressed contrition for her past conduct," Russell wrote.</p><p>"Guo obviously knew, however, that what she was doing was wrong, and yet she kept on doing it for several years and simply hoped that she would not be found out. The clandestine nature of her activities confirms this. There is no real excuse. She was perfectly happy to go on doing what she knew was wrong in order to make money at the expense of the plaintiffs' rights."</p><p>Louis Vuitton adopted of a "zero-tolerance" policy for counterfeit goods in 2004, which has led to over 13,000 legal actions, 6,000 raids and about 950 arrests, according to the company's website.</p><p>A crackdown against stores in Vancouver-area shopping malls led to a successful 2008 lawsuit in which Louis Vuitton claimed $980,000 in damages and about $50,000 for court costs.</p> <br><p>Saturday rolls around and I'm annoyingly aware it's the first weekend in ages that no plans have been made with the beau - I worry that he has tired of my affections, (incredible as this may seem) ...My best friend Zoe saves the day with a text.</p>eGHZmFyID44mYu00M5dZQhYaAu%2FAmgJCGfYy66NCsZ3y2%2BCd8epkdQj2UKN14xi7V2f6zvgZ4FLzuHlXFqCtvHEMfu8cnurHGtdTrlO6FQ53rI4f%2FNo7oyXAvVcpcAPr4kIuB5Ua5hfpX3jCUjpesONZAp5v%2FZYto0CpL2BNQDbLKBQntDL%2BG2ZKPlg9r%2BFV%2BmT0BiOAFtrtokNKpUskOJ8H48FfJw8w2fwJRIZ%2FmkxHhB9wN3OKyzyLcj7%2BIaIUlBrT8Mnfgr0u5YNGmCouCEzr13WH06%2FKw9sAFVgPVn1yfM9c4bEk3KHP%2B65GOlBt<p>Last night Burberry celebrated the launch of Body, the British fashion house's new fragrance, in Beverly Hills.</p><p>Serena Williams, Rachel Zoe, Kate Bosworth, and Solange Knowles are just a handful for the stars that attended the event. </p><p>Knowles, one of , served as the party's DJ and wore a bold printed blouse with a high-waisted blue skirt. </p><p>"I definitely gravitate toward prints and color," in an interview earlier this month. </p><p>We love her use of color and proportions. HIgh-waited pants and skirts are on the rise (pun intended)--and a great staples in your Fall wardrobe. </p><p><br>Here's a look at the event's stylish scene.<br></p> <br><p>Whether it's a Louis Vuitton, Proenza Schouler or Chanel that your heart desires, it's likely, if you're spending upwards of $1,000 on a purse, you want it to be real. </p><p>But there are plenty of people out there -- online and on street corners -- who are looking for people super keen on buying a Birkin to scam. (Can you imagine what it would feel like to think you've bought "the real deal" when all you've snagged is a knock-off? Blah.)</p><p>Avoid the feeling of "it" bag buying defeat, by checking out these tips from . Their five tidbits will help you spot a fake online, and will save you from serious sartorial heartbreak. </p><p>Easy Tells<br>Spotting replica handbags used to be simple; check the hardware, logos and material. Lightweight metal accents, slightly skewed logos and cheap materials are still the first lines of defence for warding off fakes, but with today’s higher-quality knock-offs, it’s a case of needing steps two through five as well.</p><p>Online Indicators<br>When buying a handbag online, make sure it’s from a reputable source. If sites are based in China or Hong Kong, proceed with caution, as the two countries make up 88.8 per cent of the goods seized. Also, check the descriptions and reviews for signs of inauthenticity. If customer reviews say the bags aren’t the real thing, then they likely aren’t.</p><p>Respectable Resellers<br>Just because a bag is sold online, it doesn’t mean it’s fake. Authentic and vintage handbags are often sold on eBay; buyers just need to be smart in researching the seller. If the deal looks too good to be true, it usually is. A Chanel bag will never be $50, so use common sense. Certified resale sites like Portero also offer discounts on authentic bags.</p><p>Craftsmanship Flaws<br>A Burberry or Prada handbag will not have crooked stitching or unfinished edges. High-end brands take ultimate pride in craftsmanship, so no imperfect bag would leave their factory for a legitimate retailer like Nordstrom. The leathers and fabrics of authentic bags will always be perfectly stitched and lined up, never crooked or gapped stitched.</p><p>Brand-Specific Giveaways<br>Know the signs to look for in the specific bag. For instance, Marc Jacobs’ zippers are embossed with either RiRi or Lampo and all Louis Vuitton bags made since the early ‘80s have a date stamped somewhere on the interior. Brand fanatics spend time spotting knock-off bags to protect their favourite designers’ integrity, so a quick search before you buy will reveal specific tells for each high-end brand.</p><p>Armed with these five tips, spotting imitation designer handbags should be simple. Don’t fall into the impostor trap -- if the real thing is too expensive, buy an authentic, quality handbag of a lesser-known brand. </p><p>Here are real Hermes bags on the arms of celebs:<br></p><p>Also on HuffPost:</p><p>A graduate of London College of Fashion (LCF), Matteo Mollinari showed his Spring/Summer 2013 menswear and accessories range as part of LCFM, an initiative that brought together LCF menswear alumni Molinari, Domingo Rodriguez and Asger Juel Larsen to show their collections to an attentive audience that gathered on a runway at the Royal Society of Arts on 15 June 2012.</p>In the early 1990's, the red carpet was far from the international fashion frenzy it has become today. No one ever heard of paying a stylist to "place" a piece of jewelry on a celebrity client, and loaning jewelry to the stars, so common today, was nearly unheard of -- or at least not widely discussed.JACKSON, Miss. &mdash; A Georgia woman had little chance of surviving an illegal cosmetic procedure in Mississippi because the silicone-like substance that was injected in...<p>Yesterday, on a long-awaited balmy Los Angeles day, Burberry chief creative officer Christopher Bailey hosted a classic English Tea at an Ivy-covered estate in Beverly Hills. The cute-as-a-button Brit had flown into town on a one day jaunt to celebrate the brand's very first beauty line, which launched at Nordstrom earlier this month.</p><p>Though the weather was schvitz-worthy, the intimate crowd -- which included Kate Bosworth, Lake Bell, Rachel Zoe and Jayma Mays -- managed to stay cool as the cucumber and chive tea sandwiches being served.</p><p>And Bosworth particularly stood out in a nude lace creation from the Burberry Porsum pre-fall '10 collection.</p><p>"We're twins!" the actress laughed as a fellow guest strolled by wearing the dress' black-hued counterpart. Only Bosworth added her own spin to the outfit with a tanned leather belt, lending a young, laid-back quality to the look.</p><p><br></p><p>GARDEN PARTY: Model May Anderson and Kate Bosworth.</p><p><br>She wasn't the only bold faced name to wear slick accessories. Nylon Fashion Director Dani Stahl, who was hosting a Lia Sophia jewelry event at the Sunset Tower Hotel later that evening, sported a cool copper headband; While Zoe effortlessly strutted the lush green lawn in a pair of stilt-like platform sandals that became a topic of guest conversation.</p><p>But the accessories with the most buzz were the lipsticks, eyeshadows and blushes in Burberry's brand new line of cosmetics. The collection, simply called Burberry Beauty, consists of twenty extremely wearable, classic shades including Brick Red No. 19, a deep, blood-hued lip color, and Russet Blush No. 01, a natural, peachy cheek powder.</p><p>Bosworth is a fan.</p><p>"I'm in love with the collection," she gushed to Bailey before inviting him to later meet her at Chateau Marmont for a drink.</p><p>But Bailey, who was only in town for twelve hours, had to decline.</p><p>"Next time," he said, looking genuinely bummed. As the air finally started to cool, it was anyone's guess what the designer would miss more: the company of a movie star or the first genuinely perfect night of summer.</p><p><br>Click here to read more at </p><p>Follow Style Section L.A. on Twitter:</p><p>This week, with runway newcomer Tali Lennox, daughter of rocker Annie Lennox. The 17-year-old is signed with Next Models and has already graced the catwalk for Prada, Roberto Cavalli, Burberry and Missoni. , "My family is very supportive; they have a lot of faith and trust in me. I talk through every aspect of my job with my mum, and she's given me a lot of self-belief and wisdom. I don't talk about it that much with most of my friends. It's nice to be with people who are detached from the industry."</p><p>She also shared her most memorable experience from the last season of shows: </p>Speeding through Milan on a motorcycle in heels and a minidress, trying to get from the Missoni show to the Versus show, being over four hours late. I rushed in and had four people doing my hair, two people doing my makeup, and another two on nails and toes all at the same time. I heard an Italian woman repeatedly calling "Tali, Tali! Where is Tali?" I finally make it to the backstage line where all the other girls are already lined up and see that the woman calling for me is Donatella Versace! The show set was like a playground, and I felt like the naughty girl at fashion school! <p>Check out some images of Tali on and off the runway.</p><p></p><p><br></p> <br><p>Meet the new faces of Burberry -- although they should look familiar to you. </p><p>That little lady on the right is Tali Lennox, daughter of songstress Annie, who is kind of a big deal. And on the right? Tara Ferry, son of rocker Bryan Ferry. </p><p>We would have loved to be a fly on the wall (on the beach?) at this photoshoot. We've already married them off to each other in our minds.</p><p>Take a look:</p><p></p><p>WATCH:</p><p></p> <br>Tali is one of the most successful young models in the UK. Having shot the Topshop Christmas campaign in 2010 Tali has gone on to shoot for Burberry, and is the current face of Karen Millen. She has modelled for the likes of Burberry, Marc Jacobs, Julien Macdonald, House of Holland, Prada, Missoni, John Rocha, Topshop, Issa and Betty Jackson. Julein Macdonald personally asked herto be a guest judge on Britain and Ireland’s Next Top Model alongside Elle Macpherson. She has also customised and decorated a watering can that will be on show on a one-off pop-up shop on 63 Broadwick Street, London W1F. It is part of a series of exhibits designed by other celebrities, including Katharine Hamnett, David Shrigley and Bill Nighy, all to be auctioned on ebay – .<br>Auction closes on Sunday May 20th.<p>Apple has become one of the world's most valued brands, following stellar sales in both developed and emerging markets last year. </p><p>It was only beaten into second place by beverages giant Coca Cola in Interbrand's 13th annual global brand survey.</p><p>Technology giants dominated the listings in 2012, with social media giant Facebook entering the report at number 69 after making headlines as the third largest IPO in US history</p><p>Search engine Google experienced a 26% increase in brand value over the last year which helped to place it an impressive fourth, ahead of its rival Microsoft for the first time. Microsoft placed 5th.</p><p>But there was a distinct lack of British companies - just four in the list's 100 companies. This is partly explained by a number of fallers from last year's report, including Barclays which suffered from its rate-rigging scandal.</p><p>Barclays wasn't the only financial services company to suffer; Zurich and UBS also failed to make the grade in 2012. </p><p><br>Luxury brands also performed well</p><p>Luxury goods performed well, thanks mainly to their retained brand value - with Burberry placing at 82, Prada at 84, Tiffany and Co at 70 and Hermes at 63. </p><p>Louis Vuitton secured 17th place, with Gucci coming in close behind on 38th.</p><p>Automotive brands performed well too as companies become more attuned to the emotional connection consumers have with their cars.</p><p>This has caused many automakers to develop more effective, technologically savvy ways to reach target markets and help prospective buyers better relate to car brands. </p><p>Audi’s digital showroom, Audi City, combes digital product presentations and personal contact with dealers. It placed at 55.</p><p>Similarly, Ford (placed at 45) is working hard to improve MyTouch, its in-car communications and entertainment system. </p><p>Brands like BMW (placed 12th) and Hyundai (placed 53th) are investing in global brand campaigns and are becoming more digitally connected and tailored to narrower target groups. </p><p>The whole industry is hoping to engage customers and prospects in a relevant and personalised manner throughout the entire purchase cycle, said.</p><p>Another interesting brand to note was Smirnoff, which increased its brand value by 5%, but still only managed to place 90th, one place down on 2011.</p><p>Interbrand examines the three key aspects that contribute to a brand’s value:</p><p></p><p></p><p>Elsewhere, Amazon UK, Marks & Spencer and House of Fraser have topped the UK Ecommerce Performance Index study.</p><p>However, the report, which scored 25 of the UK’s top retailers’ websites against a detailed best practice benchmark, presented a disappointing average score of 58%, well short of 2011’s score of 63%, which indicates retailers are struggling to keep up with maturing consumer expectations.</p><p>David Bowen, product manager at EPiServer which produced , commented: “The overall score of 58% demonstrates there is plenty of room for improvement and a real opportunity for savvy retailers to give themselves a significant competitive edge with just a few simple measures.”</p><p>The biggest bones of contention for consumer expectations were the speed of checkout process and the cost of delivery.</p><p>"We’ve seen some great examples of websites delivering excellent service in particular areas, but very few are scoring well at all stages of the online shopping journey," said Bowen.</p><p>"Many retailers have fallen down at different points too, so there’s no single point of concern across the board. Amazon is a great example of how taking care of every stage can deliver a superior customer experience and this will ultimately support increased conversions and sale values.</p><p>“Our findings highlight areas where even the UK’s top retailers are risking customer loyalty, extra revenue and market share by underestimating consumer expectation.”</p>After 5 years pursuing their own successful careers – Alana as a professional dancer and Lisa as a theatre producer, identical Scottish twins Alana and Lisa Macfarlane decided to join forces and are one of the hottest new presenters in the UK.<br><br>They started their presenting career with Verge Magazine, the UK’s largest student magazine that’s distributed to all UK universities and colleges, it's here they crafted their quirky yet personable presenting style.<br><br>The Mac Twins have covered some of the biggest music events including The Brits, Wireless Festival and Radio 1's Big Weekend. Away from music the girls have covered a range of events from London Fashion Week through to the 2012 Olympic Torch Relay. It seems like everyone wants to be interviewed by The Mac Twins and they have interviewed a host of stars including Ed Sheeran, Wretch 32, Keith Lemon, Katherine Jenkins, Plan B, Stooshe, Vic Reeves, Brooke Kinsella and Rizzle Kicks.<br><br>The girls have made a splash in the world of radio and feature on BBC Radio 1Xtra’s breakfast show with Twin B each week. As broadcasters their talents have been used for BBC Scotland TV and Sky's Digital's Community Channel, as well as hosting events at the o2.<br><br>The Mac Twins also model and act. Lisa appeared in the latest Harry Potter film (Deathly Hallows) and Alana is a fittings model for Burberry, Karen Millen, ASOS, Miss Selfridge and Ted Baker. They also have partnerships with Primark, Hobs Salons and Liza Smith celebrity Nails.<br><br>Alana currently runs her own performance school in Scotland called Gie It Laldy (www.gieitlaldy.com)<br><br>As DJ’s The Mac Twins were the official DJ’s for the World Series Squash Championships (live on Sky Sports), Tinchy Stryder’s ‘Goji Headphones’ Launch, National Women’s Day at Aura night club, The Olympic Torch Relay in front of 30,000 people and are now the new resident DJ’s at top exclusive London club ‘Whisky Mist’ every Friday night. For bookings or more information on the girls please contact info@thehubentertainment.com<br><br>As if this wasn’t enough the girls are training for a half marathon on October for MIND charity (alongside being official ambassadors for the charity) and Lisa has just returned from being the main reporter on the 5 day ‘Tall Ship Voyage’ that will bought the Olympic Torch into Dover in front of 30,000 people.<p>It was another week of eye-catching fashion moments. </p><p>Gabrielle Union tops our list in a black-and-silver printed Bill Blass dress she wore to a screening of “Being Mary Jane” in New York City Thursday night. Not only do we love the abstract print, but the neck-to-navel keyhole detail is super sassy. </p><p>The 2012 New Yorkers For Children Fall Gala took place Tuesday night, with model Selita Ebanks, Jessica White and "American Boy" singer Estelle in attendance--just to name a few. Ebanks wore a showstopping Jovani gown with a plunging neckline and chic cutout detailing along the shoulders. Oh, and we can't forget the design feature du jour---.</p><p>Across the pond, Corinne Bailey Rae was spotted sitting front row at the Spring 2013 Osman show at London Fashion Week. The songstress wore an adorable head-to-toe pea green-hued ensemble. Monochromatic looks aren't the easiest to pull off, but Corrine passed with flying colors. </p><p>Here's a look at those stunning gals and more of the week's style standouts in the slideshow below. <br></p><p>As thrifty fashion lovers, we're big fans of jumping in the car and hightailing it to outlet malls, which are usually tucked in faraway suburban highway exits and tantalize us with hours of budget name-brand shopping.</p><p>And we'll soon have another: Tom Ford Outlet, the first EVER in the world, is , that enclave of designer outlets located about an hour north of New York City.</p><p>Tom Ford has a reputation for being elusive with his designs, as in, holding and . Maybe his new store will require you to check bags before you scoop up a $20 $200 tee?</p><p>And it gets better, New Yorkers: Reed Krakoff is this summer.</p><p>Ford's outlet, which is set to open on July 15, will join the other posh designer outlet stores at Woodbury, which Roberto Cavalli, Bottega Veneta, Burberry, D&G, Oscar de la Renta, Valentino, Prada, YSL and others.</p><p>We're excited! Check out the video of Ford's fall 2012 collection below to get a sneak peek of what you might be able to score at his outlet shop.</p><p>WATCH:</p><p></p> <br><p>Shia LaBeouf will not be returning for according to his co-star Josh Duhamel.</p><p>The actor played Sam Witwicky in the first three movies and there has already been speculation about whether he would reprise the role for a fourth time, after he suggested he was "done" with the action-packed franchise.</p><p>And now Josh has told E! News that Shia would not be in the flick, and it doesn't look like he will be reprising his own role of Captain William Lennox either.</p><p>He said: "I don't think anybody's doing it. I know Shia's not doing it. I don't think Tyrese or Rosie [Huntington-Whiteley] or anybody else is doing it."</p><p>He continued: "Whenever these movies make that much money they're going to make as many as they can. [But] I haven't heard anything about it. They haven't called me."</p><p>Earlier this month it was revealed that </p><p>"Steven Spielberg and I are working on a whole new re-imagining of Transformers, the fourth instalment. We have been working on the idea for a few months. I'm excited about where it's headed," he said on his official website.</p><p>Producer Lorenzo di Bonaventura had already hinted that the franchise may be starting afresh.</p><p>"I think we really are going to do a reboot there. What that's going to be, we don't even know yet. We've got to get a story first," he told MTV.</p><p>Also on HuffPost:</p> <br><p>I'm not a cat calendar kind of girl (yet) so thankfully there's a whole ton of really cool, quirky or downright kitsch cat-related stuff around right now from high end designers to the High Street in fashion, footwear and all manner of other home and lifestyle accessories too.</p><p>A primary school worker in his 30s and a student are amongst those who have already pleaded guilty to looting and rioting in courts on Wednesday.</p><p>31-year-old Alexis Bailey from Battersea in South London pleaded guilty to burglary after being arrested in Croydon. </p><p>He will be sentenced at a later date and was granted bail, but with a curfew.</p><p>Defendants scheduled to appear today are from a number of backgrounds and up to 40 years old.</p><p>David Cameron said earlier 160 people had been charged with rioting related offences and courts were working through the night to process them.</p><p>The prime minister said: “As I speak, sentences are already being passed, courts sat through the night last night, and will do again tonight. It is for the courts to sentence, but I would expect anyone convicted of violent disorder to be sent to prison.”</p><p>Despite the promise, some pleading guilty to rioting are already being let off with fines. David Attoh was told by chief of magistrates Melvyn Marks not to get into trouble again and fined £150: “You have a bright future ahead of you, if you get into trouble again you are going to jeopardise that future.”</p><p>The 18 year old student pleaded guilty to stealing two Burberry shirts in Hackney on Sunday evening.</p> <br>Rosie Huntington-Whiteley had temperatures soaring when she hit Macy's in New York last night, to celebrate the launch of the new Burberry fragrance. The model-actress...Extremist Symbolism in Fashion - a Cultural Statement or Unacceptable? You Decide...<p>Again, Nazi associated imagery is permeating into mainstream fashion, only this time it is not the swastika which has somehow made its way into the popular fashion world (a symbol with many different cultural and religious meanings), it is a symbol more specifically associated with the Nazi Party than the swastika, the Parteiadler - The Nazi Party eagle.</p><p>UPDATE 9/6 @2:00pm: <br>Jill Scott has taken to Twitter to refute the reporting conducted by TheYBF.com. The singer tweeted three messages last night stating that she in fact worked closely with Essence on the October cover shoot and that the only "coup" was having natural hair on the cover--not any discourse while producing it.</p><p>In addition, a PR rep for Essence issued the following statement to The Huffington Post:<br>Essence invited Jill to showcase her natural hair on the cover of the October issue and Jill was excited to do so. </p><p>Here's a look at Jill's tweet about the situation (note: It appears the tweets have since been deleted from Jill's timeline). </p><p>@ @ ok. U kinda got that right. I didn't stage a coup. It was a coup for Essence to have natural hair on the cover.</p>— Jill Scott (@missjillscott) <br><p>@ @ Essence Magazine and I completely worked together on this shoot. Yes it was important 4 me 2 b natural.</p>— Jill Scott (@missjillscott) <br><p>@ @ I needed my son to see mommy like he does at home. I wanted 2 show him that Mommy likes herself. Bravo Essence!</p>— Jill Scott (@missjillscott) <br><p>PREVIOUSLY: <br> and Viola Davis aren't the only stars ready, willing and able to show off their natural hair to the world. Grammy award-winning singer Jill Scott is proudly rocking her TWA (teeny weeny afro) on the cover of the . </p><p>In fact, for the feature. She told TheYBF.com that she "staged sort of a coup" by giving the glossy an ultimatum: either she shoots the cover with her natural hair or she doesn't shoot it at all. </p><p>Way to pull the diva card for a fabulous cause, Jill! The result, a perfectly polished and gorgeous cover to add to her collection. </p><p>In the October issue, the "Golden" songstress opens up about her hair and how much fun she has expressing herself through different styles. </p>“This is the simplest form of myself. I look in the mirror and it’s like, ‘Hey, there you go. What’s up, girl?’ For me, hair is an accoutrement. Hair is jewelry. It’s an accessory. Tomorrow I may want a wig down to my butt and I’m gonna rock it, and the next day I may want a big Afro and I’m gonna rock that too…”<p>We love her confidence and we totally adore this cover look. What do you think? <br></p><p></p><p>NEW YORK &mdash; Investors spent Tuesday preparing for two events sure to move markets this week: a Federal Reserve meeting and a court decision on whether Germany can help support its struggling neighbors. And if the stock market's gains Tuesday are any sign, they expect both events to turn out well.</p><p>The Dow Jones industrial average rose 69.07 points to close at 13,323.36. The average of 30 large company stocks has already gained 1.8 percent to start September, a month which is usually dismal for stocks.</p><p>Bank of America led the 30 stocks in the Dow, rising 5 percent, or 45 cents, to $9.03.</p><p>Federal Reserve officials will gather for a two-day meeting on Wednesday. Many expect the Fed will announce a new effort to revive the sluggish economy Thursday afternoon.</p><p>On the same day the Fed starts its meeting, Germany's high court is expected to rule on whether the country can participate in a European bailout fund. The court rejected a last-minute appeal to delay the decision on Tuesday.</p><p>"It's going to get interesting this week," said Randy Frederick, managing director of active trading and derivatives at the brokerage Charles Schwab.</p><p>Frederick expects the Fed will make some sort of move, especially after the government reported last Friday that employers added fewer than 100,000 jobs in August.</p><p>"Prior to the employment report people weren't as sure," Frederick said. "I am definitely on the majority side here. There's some sort of easing coming."</p><p>In other trading, the Standard & Poor's 500 index rose 4.48 points to 1,433.56. The Nasdaq composite increased 0.51 of a point to 3,104.53.</p><p>The assumption that the Fed will announce new stimulus measures is so widespread that some worry the market could take a plunge if the Fed fails to deliver.</p><p>Ron Florance, managing director of investment strategy at Wells Fargo Private Bank in Scottsdale, Ariz., said he's always wary when stocks rise on nothing more than expectations.</p><p>"These are the things that make you nervous, when markets are going strong in anticipation of news," Florance said.</p><p>On Tuesday, the Commerce Department reported that exports to Europe dropped 11.7 percent in July, stoking concerns that Europe's troubles could smother the U.S. recovery. Overall U.S. exports fell 1 percent to $183.3 billion, lowered by weaker sales of autos, telecom equipment and heavy machinery.</p><p>Morgan Stanley and Citigroup rose after the two banks settled a dispute over how much to value their jointly owned brokerage firm, Morgan Stanley Smith Barney. The deal cleared the way for Morgan Stanley to buy Citigroup's stake. Citi gained 83 cents to $32.66. Morgan Stanley rose 64 cents to $17.25.</p><p>A profit warning from luxury clothing chain Burberry helped tug down other high-end retailers in early trading. Burberry said slowing sales to China will likely weaken earnings. Ralph Lauren lost $4.09 to $156.22. Tiffany & Co. sank 78 cents to $62.26.</p><p>Among other stocks making moves:</p><p>_ Legg Mason jumped 5 percent following reports that its CEO will step down Oct. 1. Clients have been pulling money out of the money manager's funds, weakening revenue. Legg Mason's stock surged $1.38 to $26.85.</p><p>_ Hewlett-Packard gained 52 cents to $17.95, a 3 percent gain. The computer and printer maker said late Monday that it will cut 29,000 jobs by October 2014, or 2,000 more than it had previously planned. Sales of personal computers have slumped as people favor smartphones and lightweight tablet computers.</p><p>___</p><p>AP Business Writer Christina Rexrode contributed to this story.</p><p>Usually this time of year I'm running around London Fashion Week rushing from show to show and no matter what shoes I wear I end up with my feet punishing me in some way. So this season I decided on something slightly different. I decided to stay at home and see what brands were doing to promote their new collections via the internet and digital media.</p><p>British actor Jeremy Irvine refuses to sign up for social networking sites because he is convinced connecting with fans on the Internet would shatter his acting "credibility".</p><p>The War Horse star has no plans to start airing his thoughts on the web, and is baffled by actors who regularly update their online pages.</p><p></p><p>He tells Marie Claire magazine, "If you know too much about an actor's personal life, they lose all credibility when they try to portray a role."</p><p>Irvine also avoids looking up articles about himself on the Internet after his mother discovered a gay discussion page dedicated to the star.</p><p>He explains, "She emailed over a link to some gay forum about me. I was like, 'Mum, don't send me this stuff'. I've never Googled myself. I'd be terrified."</p><p>Also on HuffPost:</p><p>'s resident womaniser is doing little to dispel rumours he is dating model .</p><p></p><p>Not only did Harry turn up to support her as she took to the catwalk at the Burberry show during London Fashion Week yesterday, he was full on gushing to reporters about how "amazing" she looked. He was even caught locking lips with the model on camera!</p><p></p><p>Harry had taken up a plum seat on the f-row alongside Dita Von Teese, Dev Patel and Victoria Pendleton and when quizzed by ITN about Cara's catwalk appearance after the show, Harry smirked: "She was great, she did a great job. She looked amazing."</p><p></p><p></p><p>And then, if that wasn't enough to convince us he is totally rubbing belly buttons with her, he was caught congratulating Cara on camera, which involved a cheeky kiss. </p><p></p><p>It comes just days after Cara refused to comment on Harry when pressed by reporters. </p><p>Asked what was going on between her and the One Directioner, she said: "I've heard this thing. I don't know, I'm not going to answer that question. I like to keep my private life private and that's all I'm going to say."</p><p>Guess the cat's out of the bag now, Cara.</p><p> </p><p>> IN PICS: ONE DIRECTION'S ROAD TO WORLD DOMINATION<br></p><p><br> Burberry Prorsum sent killer coats down the runway for Fall 2011 RTW with heavy duty repetitive buckles. Try mixing the buckle trend into something other than a coat with a DIY kilt made from a wool scarf and three buckles. I love the drapey but structured look of the wrapped scarf with the hardware. It’s pretty easy to complete and the finished product is chic and looks anything but homemade. I can’t wait to wear this with some nubby tights, black combat boots and a fisherman’s sweater!</p><p>Follow the easy steps in the photos below to create a fun piece you'll wear all winter long! </p><p> :</p> <br> <br><p>Forget Fashion Week -- it's Wool Week in London, , with sheep even taking to the streets to celebrate the natural fiber. The event is part of the Campaign for Wool, spearheaded by Prince Charles and engaging more than 80 labels like Burberry, Pringle and Paul Smith.</p><p>So what does Wool Week entail? Via WWD:</p>On Monday, Savile Row was transformed into a meadow where sheep -- their wool dyed in brightly colored plaid patterns -- grazed, while many of the tailors opened their doors and archives to the public. The previous day, 15 yellow-dyed sheep gathered outside Selfridges to make their point about the importance of giving fleece a chance. <p>Selfridges department store is hosting a series of in-store events including, "its first graffiti knitting event alongside its very own knitted house. Pedlars will also showcase its scarf on a roll -- designed using 100% Scottish wool -- on the lower ground floor of the store in support of Wool Week," . </p><p>The store also held a Wool Week party with Prince Charles addressing the crowd via video. He remarked, "A couple of years ago I was shocked to discover that it often costs more the shear a sheep than a farmer would be paid for its wool," .</p><p>Check out pictures of the sheep on Monday and scroll down to keep reading. (We don't see any plaid sheep...but there were some really cute dogs in clothes watching.)<br></p><p></p><p> from its website:</p>The Campaign for Wool is a cross-industry initiative convened by HRH The Prince of Wales in January 2010. As a serious environmentalist, the Prince believes the natural, sustainable origin and highly technical structure of wool can offer fashion, interiors and the built environment many superior benefits. Choosing real wool - as the Prince understands - will also help to care for our planet. <br><p>We've all seen singers catapulted into the spotlight once they've been discovered on YouTube. Who could forget Stratford, Ont. native Justin Bieber? In 2007, the then 12-year-old posted videos of himself -- to name a few. A year later, Bieber was signed by Usher and the rest is, well, history.</p><p>But what about all the other YouTube personalities? Don't they get recognition, too? We're going to take a look specifically at makeup and style gurus. Whether you want to try a pull off a smoky cat-eye look for your birthday or learn how to -- yes, it's possible and apparently super easy -- there are a few people on the Internet we keep turning to for beauty answers.</p><p>Here are some of our favs. </p><p></p> <br><p>So usually this time of year I'm running around London Fashion Week rushing from show to show and no matter what shoes I wear I end up with my feet punishing me in some way. So this season I decided on something slightly different. As much as it pained me, I decided to stay at home and see what brands were doing to promote their new collections via the internet and digital media.</p><p>The British Fashion Council went into partnership with streaming media provider Rightster a number of years back. The partnership provides live streaming from London Fashion Week and this year was no different, with a large number of leading brands including Burberry, Mulberry and Vivienne Westwood all streaming their catwalk shows via the London Fashion Week website. </p><p>I've used the LFW streaming service in the past but this year I noticed for the first time the LFW official streams were supported by mobile devices and in particular Apple mobile devices. This meant I was able to view the catwalk shows whilst on the move. I even managed to use the Airplay feature on my iPad to stream the shows directly to my TV. I thought this was brilliant! I was able to watch the shows, eat Maltesers and tweet my thoughts easily at the same time. I even watched a few of the early morning shows from comfort of my bed.</p><p>The official streams covered a large number of shows but some brands decided to stream their shows via their own websites. This is where a site by the name of was extremely useful. CatwalkLive.tv provides a complete list of live streams for the key fashion shows across the world. The website is incredibly simple to use and even provides direct links to the live streams. It really couldn't be any easier! The site allowed me to plan my days based on the collections I wanted to see, and as I follow CatwalkLive.tv on twitter they also tweeted reminders of shows that were about to start.</p><p>A number of the larger brands added some really unique twists to their streaming media experience. For example Burberry, who I've always considered a leader when it comes to using digital and social media, provided the ability to create a custom invites and had a personal message from Christopher Bailey about the upcoming show.</p><p>Henry Holland showed his latest House of Holland collection live via his website and also teamed up with ebay allowing customers to easily order using their ebay accounts.</p><p>The shining star for me though had to be Topshop Unique, their live streaming provided the ability for viewers to take snapshots of the live show and post them directly to their Facebook page or Twitter feed, furthermore it was possible to purchase items directly from the collection on the same page as the live stream. A superb customer experience that left me feeling truly connected with the Topshop brand.</p><p>There were unfortunately a few leading brands that decided not to provide live streams including one of my favorite brands, Matthew Williamson. I hope that next year they will invite more of us into their shows by providing live streams. </p><p>Overall I did miss the live experience of actually being at London Fashion Week and will be heading up for the next season for sure. That said, for those not fortunate enough to attend the shows in person, the streaming media alternative is certainly a good alternative.</p><p>I'm really interested to hear what your experiences of watching any streams was and whether there was a brand that you thought provided an excellent experience or perhaps even one that didn't? </p><p>Please feel free to share by commenting below.</p><p>Zoe. x</p> <br><p>Follow Zoe Yates on Twitter:</p>Featured in titles such as Marie Claire and listed in the top 10 to follow for London Fashion Week by Fashion Telegraph; Zoe shares her passion for fashion via Twitter, Facebook and . <br><br>When she's not writing, Zoe can often be found running on the streets of her home town, researching the latest trends or on the hunt for chocolate (her other love). <br><br>Zoe also assists a number of emerging fashion designers to help them create and maintain digital marketing activities through websites and other online media.Her marriage is wonderful, she&#039;s given up alcohol and from tomorrow she&#039;s hosting the nightly &#039;Strictly&#039; spin-off show &#039;It Takes Two&#039;<p>It's worth doing, this brain reboot, because otherwise you might think you'd gone to bed in the Noughties and woken up in the Seventies – the 1870s, even. A cabinet full of Old Etonians; a Royal Wedding that people seemed to care about; a TV series about the noble bond between Edwardian servants and their masters; Barbours everywhere, aristo models, elbow patches, cords. Margaret Thatcher as style icon, Kate Middleton as role model, Samantha Cameron wearing Christopher Kane; in short, Tories that people actually want to be like.</p><p>&quot;It speaks volumes about our profoundly unequal society,&quot; says Owen Jones, author of Chavs: the Demonisation of the Working Class, &quot;and of the worshipping of wealth that has developed over the past 30 years. The lifestyles of the rich and privileged are celebrated by the media, and there's no pressure to downplay your roots. People aren't embarrassed about wealth any more, they're openly proud of it.&quot;</p><p>So much is obvious in the conspicuous consumption inherent in latterday label culture and the status of the It bag. But what is surprising is the rise in popularity of a very specific sort of aesthetic: not the Eurotrash bling of the late Nineties, which unashamedly proclaimed the wearer's affluence in a rather more democratic way, nor the hyper-luxurious but consciously minimal 'stealth wealth' that we saw in the seasons immediately following the credit crunch. No, it's unalloyed, wellies and waistcoat, jolly hockey sticks posh, stalking high streets and catwalks alike as if it were beating for grouse. Posh posh posh. There's simply no other word for it.</p><p>Not since Footlights College beat Scumbag College in The Young Ones has it been socially acceptable to out yourself as one of the upper classes, nor to speak or dress like one of them either. Of course, these people have always existed, but for the past decade, they have flattened their vowels and understood they'd never exactly be at the cutting edge of cool.</p><p>But these days we queue in our droves to pick up whatever Kate Middleton has last been seen in; we crash websites in our desperation to emulate her high-street take on patrician chic. We were once a nation of enfants terribles, with the Gallaghers at Downing Street and Alexander McQueen staging unsettling shows in dingy warehouses. Nowadays, Noel is telling the Daily Mail that we had it good under Thatcher, and McQueen's successor has designed the princess's wedding dress. And the Conservative PM's wife, an aristocrat in her own right, is an ambassador for the British Fashion Council.</p><p>&quot;It's a fabulous time to be posh,&quot; admits Kate Reardon, editor of Tatler. &quot;We've got an Old Etonian Prime Minister, Kate and William are dignified and discreet, in tune with the times, and the most successful companies are those that deal in luxury goods. Burberry's sales are up and their ads are full of posh people.&quot;</p><p>Indeed, Burberry's line-ups of the likes of Otis Ferry, Eddie Redmayne, Emma Watson and Cara Delevigne – public school totty each one – have had the desired effect of hyping the posh look overseas, too. The label announced a 21 per cent growth in final quarter sales last month, thanks to Asian tourists buying into this most traditional of heritage labels. Meanwhile, the scramble to track down and own pieces worn by the Duchess of Cambridge has generated an estimated £1 billion for the economy, in what is being called 'the Kate effect', and Downton Abbey has gone down a storm with American audiences, further propagating posh as our most resonant national characteristic. It recalls the original brand of posh cool, personified by the louche stylings of the Duke of Windsor and the debutante glamour of Princess Margaret.</p><p>&quot;British elegance is effortless and traditional,&quot; says Emma Hill, creative director of Mulberry, whose autumn 2011 collection played out on a catwalk surrounded by foliage, and was inspired by some of the more socially rarefied pursuits of the Great British Outdoors.</p><p>&quot;Le Style Anglais became popular during the 1970s; it was en vogue to imitate the 'hunting, shooting, fishing' vibe of classic English fashion. It was the uniform of the country brought to town. English women are defined by these heritage influences and classics, and nowadays mix them with amazing street style.&quot;</p><p>There's a certain tribe – one that includes the likes of Alexa Chung, as well as models Alice Dellal and Daisy Lowe – whose indie influences have exerted pressure on the posh trope and turned it into streetwear. Floral tea dresses and sailor shifts worn with brogues and loafers, Barbours and tweed worn with denim, and battered leather satchels and briefcases that look like they may have accompanied their owners to prep school: all have helped re-appropriate and re-circulate the sartorial ticks of the upper echelons, thereby rehabilitating them for the rest of us plebs.</p><p>And this has kicked off something of a wider trend – one need only look at the international catwalks. For autumn 2008, D&amp;G dressed models in knitwear, tartan and headscarves tied under the chin in imitation of our own Queen Elizabeth II. This season, meanwhile, saddle bags come courtesy of Gucci, Jerome Dreyfuss and Proenza Schouler, while Pierre Hardy's riding-whip necklaces for Hermès have a waiting list, even though they cost upwards of £570,000. Labels such as Issa, Temperley and Jenny Packham have all boomed under the patronage of the Middleton sisters. The motifs of the upper-class lifestyle have become fashion staples in themselves, but not until recently have we seen such a wholesale – and, more importantly, entirely unironic – return to them.</p><p>&quot;When times are tough, you turn to what you know,&quot; says Peter York, author of The Sloane Ranger Handbook, which is being re-released digitally this year, 30 years after its publication. &quot;You look for things that are secure and unrisky. You rediscover the joy of a Barbour.&quot;</p><p>There's certainly something to be said for picking up design classics that are durable and timeless during a moment of financial misery, but you need only look at the many proliferating street-style blogs to see that it goes beyond this, that the uniform of the hipster nowadays was once that of the upper classes. Quilted jackets in country estate green; coloured cords worn with deck shoes; chambray shirts given a modern makeover with yoke patches and elbow pads.</p><p>Several revivals in recent years – the Eighties, minimalism, grunge – have been linked to the current socio-economic outlook (&quot;We're so wealthy we've lost all sense of what is tasteful&quot;; &quot;Uh oh, we're now a bit embarrassed about our wealth&quot;; &quot;We'd better dress the way we did the last time things got rocky&quot; respectively), and the posh trend is a continuation of this. We've moved from an era when the haves and have-nots had blended, thanks to credit cards and sub-prime mortgages. Nowadays, we have debt, unemployment and corduroy trousers to tell them apart.</p><p>&quot;It's stupid to say that there's any comfort to be had in 'knowing your place',&quot; adds Kate Reardon, &quot;but there is a sense of reassuring escapism to something like Downton Abbey. There's a perceived romance and elegance that is wonderful to lose yourself in.&quot;</p><p>&quot;Pop culture has conquered all before it,&quot; says Owen Jones, &quot;and it has become more democratic. An aristocrat and someone on a council estate might both watch The X Factor, and you wouldn't have heard regional accents on the BBC 30 years ago. So while leisure interests have embraced all classes, there has been a comeback of the trappings of privilege, of being posh and proud.&quot;</p><p>But before you go round shouting about it, be warned: the look also rests on a certain modesty and sense of &quot;Who, me?&quot;. It's the sort of self-effacingly confident humility that can only be learnt at the feet of Tiggy Legge-Bourke, or in the country's most exclusive schools. You can buy the Barbour and encourage the luxuriant growth of thick, shiny hair, but you can't imitate the breeding. And that is precisely the point.</p><p>&quot;It's not about being posh,&quot; says Sophia Beddow, social editor at Hello!. &quot;It's about having class. Before, what defined being 'posh' was pedigree – it was all about where you came from. But the boundaries have changed: you only have to look at Kate Middleton and the way her family carried themselves throughout the Royal Wedding to see that.&quot;</p><p>In this way, the toff trend can be seen as a reaction against the ubiquity of the perma-tanned, partially-clothed, bandage-dress sort of celeb – you might not like Kate Middleton's style (as indeed designer Vivienne Westwood does not, calling her &quot;ordinary&quot; in an interview last year) but at least she's always tastefully covered up.</p><p>&quot;After a succession of trashy It girls who we derided for being posh, at the moment we have good posh role models,&quot; says Kate Reardon. &quot;If Kate and William were morons, falling out of nightclubs, perhaps we'd feel differently. Flashy bankers are the most unpopular people on the planet right now; a bit of modest 'noblesse oblige' is more acceptable.&quot;</p><p>Perhaps we do have a grudging admiration for a lost race of people who dispense with their wealth in understated ways. In 1981, Margaret Thatcher paid for her own £19 ironing board at Downing Street, we are told, while latterday MPs learnt how to 'flip' their houses to wring as much from their expenses as possible. There's certainly a zeitgeist for that sort of austerity, but the spectre of Margaret Thatcher abides right now, not least because of public sector strikes and government cuts so deep that Whitehall will run with blood, but because The Iron Lady seems to have rebirthed her as a fashion icon. Anya Hindmarch, handbag-maker to most of west London, even arrayed her Bond Street store with effigies of the former leader when the film was released, in celebration of her boxy suits and redoubtable handbags.</p><p>&quot;The cleverest thing about Thatcher's image was that her clothes never detracted from her character,&quot; Hindmarch explained when the display was unveiled. &quot;That was quite a feat, I suspect, to look good and still not be talked about for your clothes.&quot;</p><p>What was perhaps more of a feat was that these Maggie mannequins remained undisturbed and Hindmarch's gleaming vitrines survived unegged, but that's the difference in attitudes towards 'posh' these days. It is no longer something to resent or be embarrassed by, so much as something we all aspire to and – thanks to a schismatic sense of social mobility – believe is within our grasp. Being posh has become a way of demonstrating our tenacity and mettle during these difficult times. And that is why we stomach upper-class spokespeople in positions of power claiming that we're 'all in it together', and why it is no longer red rag to a bull to suggest that Thatcher did some good.</p><p>There is a difference, too, in the attitudes of the next generation, who remain less inflamed than their forebears when it comes to political protest. There have been murmurings of classism during the recent student protests, but the summer riots were proof enough that aspiration is rife – and of the crushing scorn of the wealthy in their wake: credentials nowadays are not so much about acquisition as they are about etiquette.</p><p>&quot;There are plenty of girls out there who are well-bred, but do they have class,&quot; asks Sophia Beddow. &quot;You only have to watch an episode of Made in Chelsea to know the answer to that. Victoria Beckham is another case in point – 'Posh' may have been her moniker in her early days as a Spice Girl, but today no one can dispute the fact she is one classy lady.&quot;</p><p>&quot;There's a difference between being posh and being rich,&quot; agrees Tatler's Kate Reardon. &quot;Posh is a way of living that can often be quite miserly and not about money. It was excruciating being posh under Tony Blair; posh people were fantastically unpopular. But these things are a reaction against what has come before. And, as with all trends, it's always darkest before the dawn.&quot;</p><p>Status update: How we wore</p><p>THEN</p><p>Posh Spice</p><p>Bursting into the 'spice-o-sphere' in 1997 with their single &quot;Wannabe&quot;, the Spice Girls were as brassy as they were brash... and everyone loved them for it.</p><p>Kate Moss</p><p>The uber-model of the Nineties was Croydon born and bred, but that didn't stop her penetrating Paris's most exclusive ateliers.</p><p>Cherie Booth</p><p>The First Lady of New Labour was raised in Lancashire by her mother after her father, the actor Tony Booth, left his family. She became a QC in 1995 and once stood for election as a Labour MP.</p><p>Denim jackets</p><p>Worn by all self-respecting followers of fashion, whether a faded punk version, a citified indigo number or sheepskin-lined à la Liam Gallagher.</p><p>D:Ream</p><p>One-hit wonders D:Ream found their career invigorated once more when Tony Blair's campaign managers chose &quot;Things Can Only Get Better&quot; as the soundtrack to the landslide election win in 1997.</p><p>Labour</p><p>The only party to see and be seen voting for: New Labour commandeered the affections of rock stars and pensioners alike – this was 'Cool Britannia'.</p><p>NOW</p><p>Victoria Beckham</p><p>Shaking off the 'posh' nickname, ditching the hair extensions, fake tans and breast implants, the ex-Spice Girl has recreated herself as a fashion designer.</p><p>Kate Middleton</p><p>Middleton is the middle-class girl made good, snaring Prince William after chasing him up to university in St Andrews.</p><p>Samantha Cameron</p><p>Daughter of Sir Reginald Adrian Berkeley Sheffield, 8th Baronet, 'Sam Cam' grew up in a stately home in Yorkshire. The PM's wife is also creative director of luxury stationers Smythson and an ambassador of the British Fashion Council.</p><p>Shooting jackets</p><p>Quilted for warmth and patched for pressure on elbows for grouse season, the archetypal country-set style is being worn beyond the Glorious 12th.</p><p>Brian Cox</p><p>D:Ream's keyboard player Brian Cox became the cool face of particle physics, with a series on the BBC explaining natural phenomena.</p><p>Conservative</p><p>We now have a Tory government that is doing quite well in the polls. Cameron's aristo background – and those of most of his cabinet – are seemingly no turn-off.</p><p>But while the adopted Englishman may be right that the tea table remains a place of decorum, we Brits are once again going crazy for afternoon tea. Bettys Tea Rooms are a Yorkshire institution. Over the years, the venues have become almost as famous for their long queues as for their fancies. So much so that recently in its Harrogate and York branches, it has introduced a reservation system for teas to cope with booming demand.</p><p>&quot;We have definitely experienced a significant growth in people coming to take afternoon tea over the last five years,&quot; says Paula Kaye, a manager at Bettys. &quot;The customers are really diverse, not just older generations, also younger generations or groups of friends choosing it over, say, a day at the spa, and [they] see the venues as a nice place to meet socially.&quot;</p><p>At York and Harrogate, where guests sit in the Imperial Room and enjoy striking views, guests can now book for afternoon tea. It has also followed the trend in moving beyond the simple formula of scone, sandwich and a slurp of tea.</p><p>&quot;Over the last couple of years, there has been a growth in popularity from people wanting the experience,&quot; Kaye adds. &quot;We have worked on that in the last year to develop the total experience for the visitor.&quot;</p><p>Bettys isn't alone in enhancing the tea experience, with an increasing number of venues offering eye-catching teatime menus. Later this month, Japanese restaurant Nobu Berkeley in London's Mayfair is launching its own version of the British staple, serving up such delights as savoury beef and shrimp takoyaki, dorayaki (Japanese pancakes) and doughnuts filled with yuzu curd. The Langham Hotel in Westminster has a tea sommelier, while at the constantly evolving Parlour at Sketch restaurant on Conduit Street guests eat with mismatching crockery and from unusual three-tiered cake stands.</p><p>For the fashion-conscious, the Berkeley hotel, also in London, serves a Prêt-à-Portea, where the cakes and treats are shaped like catwalk creations from designers such as Burberry, Bottega Veneta and Dolce &amp; Gabbana.</p><p>The Connaught Hotel's menu from two-Michelin-starred chef Hélène Darroze features 30 different types of jam. The Sanderson has the Mad Hatter's Afternoon Tea, which tempts guests with playful dishes such as strawberry-and-cream mousse and a portion of passion fruit jelly, coconut panna cotta and exotic foam.</p><p>While hotels and restaurants are having more fun in their creative approaches to the afternoon meal, it is an important source of revenue for the venues too. Prices are sometimes high, and in many places you are compelled to order the set menu.</p><p>To enjoy the award-winning Claridge's tea, it costs £38 per person; at the Ritz (which has seven sittings per day), afternoon tea is £42 per person, rising to £53 for the &quot;celebration tea&quot;. Of course, these prices all go up if you add champagne. Last year, the Cliveden hotel in Berkshire was offering what it said was the world's most expensive afternoon tea, at £550 a person. For that you got white truffles, caviar and Chinese tea that costs £2,000 a kilo. Celebrated venues such as Peacocks in Ely are more reasonable, with &quot;the full monty tea&quot; setting you back £16. Tea and cake at London's trendy Riding House Café is from £5.</p><p>Irene Gorman, the head of the Tea Guild, says the quality and demands have changed. It is no longer just friends meeting for tea, it has also become a time for business meetings. She also points out that it often offers a cheaper alternative to a night out, besides the fact that you might not fancy dinner after several sandwiches, scones and cakes in the middle of the afternoon.</p><p>&quot;You know what it's going to cost you beforehand, so the choice is yours before you go,&quot; she says. &quot;Unlike dinner, you don't have to wonder how much you're going to spend on wine. You want to be out, in nice surroundings. And it's still a great way of enjoying yourself.&quot;</p><p>The Tea Guild (tea.co.uk) offers membership to venues offering tea across the country. The criteria and examination process to join are strict and each year it inspects its members and gives a detailed report back to help to maintain quality. It also presents awards each year, those for excellence being like a Michelin star, while the top prizes, it says, are &quot; the Oscars&quot; of tea. Last year, Claridge's hotel won its top London award, while the Rocke Cottage Tea Rooms in Shropshire was &quot;Top Tea Place&quot;.</p><p>Its drive for quality is mirrored by campaigners from Devon, who are appealing to the EU to bestow the Devon cream tea with Protected Designation of Origin status. One of its stated aims is to stop inferior-quality copies.</p><p>&quot;Afternoon tea never went away,&quot; Gorman says. &quot;What is going away, however, is people not doing it very well. Certainly over the last 10 years it has got better. It's no longer seen as something you take your old auntie to.</p><p>&quot;People have very high expectations of it. It's the one meal you'll not forget if it's not good. We've become more sophisticated in our palates.&quot;</p><p>I have nothing against Wags per se. I rather admire them, with their glorious gusto for celebrity and conspicuous consumption and living the dream and over-sized sunglasses, but it is also a deadening prospect. What do I know about over-sized sunglasses? Or St Tropez tans or hair extensions or fake nails or, of course, posing for OK! with a certain vacant perfection? (I did once try a certain vacant perfection, it's true, but it made me dizzy and gave me dry elbows so, alas, I had to cancel the OK! photo-shoot.)</p><p>This Wag is Abbey Clancy, TV presenter, model, spokesperson for Lynx Attract For Her, the first Lynx fragrance for women – &quot;it's young and flowery and really, really nice,&quot; she says, with a straight face – and wife of England and Stoke footballer Peter Crouch, described by my son as &quot;the very, very tall spindly one who did that robot dance,&quot; as if this is going to help me place him. Still, I do ask Abbey if the very, very tall spindly one ever does a robot dance for her own private enjoyment, when she's been good, say, and made the beds and taken the rubbish out? &quot;No!&quot; she exclaims with horror. You're not a fan of the robot dance? &quot;It's bizarre!&quot;</p><p>She is very warm and rather fun, actually, and although we have a few sticky moments – she doesn't much enjoy talking about tabloid newspaper revelations, predictably – I have some fun myself. We have a splendid lunch. We go mad on credit cards in a designer childrenswear shop. I invite myself to her daughter, Sophia's, upcoming first birthday party, once I learn a mini-farm will be coming to their house. &quot;With piglets you can pet and everything?&quot; I query excitedly. &quot;And a little horse,&quot; she says. I'm on it, I tell her, and feel significantly cheered.</p><p>Anyway, she meets me as I come out of Macclesfield station, drawing up in one of those tank-sized Range Rovers. She is 25, and disappointingly non-blingy, dressed simply in black T-shirt, black skinny jeans and mid-heeled Kurt Geiger courts. She is 5ft 9ins, with legs going up to her armpits – although not literally, as that would be freakishly hideous – and is certainly gorgeous, with huge, amazingly green eyes and a distinctly non-orange complexion. It is creamy, if anything.</p><p>And your beauty regime, madam? &quot;Just baby wipes and Nivea.&quot; Are you sure, I ask, you don't want to name-drop Crème de la Mer, so they'll send us a big box of free stuff? &quot;Nivea,&quot; she repeats. Drat. Still, I climb into the car. She is, I quickly discover, a considerate road user if you don't count the instances when she harasses slower drivers with &quot;Come on, you soft shite&quot;, which are many.</p><p>I'd wanted to visit her at home – she lives in nearby Alderley Edge, naturally – for a good snoop, but she wouldn't have it. Her house is rented and doesn't have a good vibe or feel like home, she says. But does it have a swimming pool, I enquire. It does, she says. &quot;I don't use it but Pete takes the baby in every day and she absolutely loves it and me mum's dogs go in, too.&quot; What sort of dogs does your mum have? Morkies, she says. Morkie? A cross between Maltese and Yorkie, she explains. I say I'm planning to buy a Shiatsu crossed with a Poodle if only so I can tell everybody: &quot;I'm having a Shit-Poo&quot;. We laugh until the next slow driver comes along, who is also a &quot;soft shite&quot;.</p><p>She is originally from Liverpool, and is still very Liverpool, saying &quot;me&quot; for &quot;my&quot; – &quot;I love to read and I love Martina Cole. She's me favourite&quot; – and &quot;cewk&quot; for &quot;cook&quot; and &quot;bewk&quot;' for &quot;book&quot;. It can lead to some confusion. Last night, she says, she got a terrible fright when a mouse got into the house and crawled all over &quot;me Burberry tewks&quot;. Your Burberry tewks, I query? &quot;Me Burberry tewks,&quot; she confirms. And what is this Burberry tewks you speak of, Abigail? &quot;What's a tewks?&quot; Yes, what is this &quot;tewks&quot;? &quot;A jacket, like.&quot; A tux! A tux! &quot;I got Pete to catch it.&quot; The tewks? &quot;The mouse.&quot;</p><p>She then hoots the horn. Another soft shite? No, Pete driving his Range Rover in the opposite direction. He'd taken their daughter to her mother's for the day, and now he should be off to training, but is going the wrong way. She calls him and puts him on speaker phone. He forgot his wash-bag, apparently, so has to speed home for it. She finishes the call with: &quot;Love you!&quot;, to which he replies, &quot;Love you!&quot;. Nobody, it appears, loves me, but it may just be my dry elbows. I should cream them more. (E45? Is that the best? I would use Crème de la Mer, if I had any.)</p><p>She takes me to The Cheshire Smokehouse, a deli-cum-cafe where she appears to be well-known. &quot;I haven't got the baby with me today to trash the place,&quot; she tells the waitress. &quot;She's never any trouble,&quot; says the waitress, who is kindly as well as, possibly, long-suffering.</p><p>I would say that Abbey is one of those figure-conscious women who simply push food around a plate, if it were true, but it isn't. She can well pack it in. It is a joy to behold. She has scrambled eggs with smoked salmon, two rounds of toast with cream cheese, two cappuccinos, an orange juice, and then a scone piled with jam and cream. Yet you stay skinny? &quot;It's me genes,&quot; she says. I say a friend of mine had a baby at around the same time she did, and when she saw photos of Abbey taken a few weeks after Sophia's birth and noted her flat stomach, she burst into tears. A tummy tuck? &quot;Absolutely not!&quot; she says. &quot;When I had the baby me mum said I'd go back to normal and although I didn't believe her, I just did.&quot; Did you breastfeed? She didn't, she says, &quot;because I was in that much pain&quot;. When you tried? &quot;No, underneath&quot;. Down below? &quot;Yeah, and exhausted. And me mum didn't breastfeed and you do what your mum did, don't you?&quot;</p><p>I say if you were worried about your boobs, you were right to be so. I breastfed and now my boobs are like pitta breads before you've even put them under the grill and they've puffed out a bit. She says she saw a woman breastfeeding on a train the other day, and shudders. Hey, it's natural, I counter. She shudders again. This is not, I'm guessing, a world where 'natural' is rated that highly. That said, I tell her, I can't understand why men find breast implants attractive. Who wants to fondle a bag of silicone? She says, yeah, &quot;but all they see is: boob!&quot;. She can be sharp and funny. When we later discuss wine, and I say expensive ones are wasted on me, although I like to think I can tell the difference between a £3.99 one and a £9.99 one she says, &quot;not after two bottles you can't&quot; which, aside from anything else, is very true.</p><p>Born in Liverpool, the oldest of four, Abbey's father ran a tarmac business. I wonder if she grew up craving riches, so ask if she remembers yearning for things beyond the family's income. &quot;Yeah,&quot; she says, &quot;but I always got them.&quot; Like what? &quot;It was less high-end when I was younger, more high street, more like: can I have this pair of shoes from Topshop? I'd always had quite a privileged lifestyle, to be honest. I've never wanted for anything, but I do know the value of things. I'm not, like, a brat. And I've worked since I was 15, and always got me own stuff.&quot;</p><p>And what were you like at school? &quot;Always on report, always being told off for messing about, but always top of the class.&quot; Really, I enquire, patronisingly. &quot;I got all A-stars and one B for me GCSEs.&quot; Gosh, I exclaim, just as patronisingly. Did you work hard for them? Not really, she says.</p><p>So you were a smarty-pants? Probably, she says, but she was also absolutely determined to not stay on at school. &quot;I was already in a band and the teachers called my mum in and said: 'Abbey's so clever, it's a total waste if she follows her dream'. But I never wanted to do a job I didn't love, and I'd always wanted to be a model or an actress or a singer.&quot;</p><p>If you had gone ahead to study, what might you have studied? Something well rewarded, she says. &quot;If I had to study and work hard it would have to have the reward of a lot of cash. I'd want a nice house and a nice car and go to nice places on holiday.&quot; Is this the ultimate appeal of Wag-dom? Riches without endeavour?</p><p>The band was Genie Queen, which supported Blue on tour before splitting. Next, she appeared on Britain's Next Top Model, making it through to the last few, and met Pete. How? When? &quot;It was me friend Tommy's birthday and I was out with him and his wife, Karen, and I did fancy Pete before then.&quot; From seeing him on TV and in newspapers and the like? &quot;Yes. And we were in this restaurant and I saw him and I was like: 'Oh my God!' and I went to the toilet and walked past him and he just started talking to me and then begged me for me number... Only joking! We swapped numbers.&quot; How long till he called? &quot;An hour.&quot; Did you have any sense of where it would go? &quot;Oh, yeah. I knew he'd be me boyfriend.&quot; How? &quot;Just a feeling. I knew he was The One.&quot;</p><p>And what was your first experience of being a premiership footballer's girlfriend? &quot;When I finished Britain's Next Top Model, the day I got back, he said the England team were going to Portugal, did I want to come? I'd been away from me mum for eight weeks and I'd never left me mum's side in me life and I was like: 'Should I go or shouldn't I?'.&quot; You did go, and? &quot;It was really strange because I was really young, 19, and at the meal in the evening Victoria Beckham was sitting there, and David Beckham, and all these players you only see on TV, and their wives, and I felt quite intimidated and that my clothes were crap.&quot; Was Posh friendly? &quot;I didn't speak to her.&quot; Too frightened? &quot;Yeah.&quot;</p><p>She also went to Baden Baden for the 2006 World Cup but came home early when pictures of her sniffing cocaine were printed in a tabloid. This is another of our sticky moments. If you are living the dream you do not want it defiled, I suppose. How did you feel about it, I ask.</p><p>A sharp intake of breath and then: &quot;It makes it hard to trust people you thought you could trust. It's just embarrassing because it just lets people down, like me family, and then people have a certain image of you. When I'm a good person. I'm not an angel, but it was just a silly teenage thing that most teenagers in the world do. It wasn't nice.&quot;</p><p>Did someone you know sell that picture? &quot;Yes, but I don't want to go into it, because it scares me still.&quot; It is a massive betrayal, isn't it? &quot;Definitely. I wouldn't do that to anyone. I just don't understand people's mentality. If I saw Tom Cruise sitting here, I wouldn't go over and take a picture of him then sell it to a newspaper. People seem to do that nowadays. It's just bizarre.&quot;</p><p>She and Pete are among those suing News International for phone hacking. And what's the most ridiculous thing you've ever read about yourself in a tabloid, I ask. &quot;There have been millions of things.&quot; The latest, then. &quot;The latest is that I'm getting £750 cellulite treatments and I don't even have cellulite!&quot; Absurd! &quot;I know.&quot;</p><p>We pay up and climb back into her car, where there is a bag of treacle toffees. &quot;Want one?&quot; Abbey, I'm stuffed! She pops one in her pretty mouth. It's my idea to stop at the childrenswear shop in chi-chi Wilmslow on the way back, as I need a baby gift. I ask Abbey if she likes shopping, shopping, shopping.</p><p>&quot;Not as much as I used to,&quot; she says. Still, although the price of the one little outfit I buy makes my eyes water, she proceeds to buy up half the shop for Sophia. I'm guessing not having to think about money simply becomes normal after a while.</p><p>Did Pete, I ask, cry when Sophia was born? &quot;He cried, and me mum cried, and me sister cried.&quot; Is she fat? I love a fat baby. &quot;She is very fat.&quot; Cellulite treatments? You're never too young. &quot;Ha, ha!&quot; Who gave Sophia her first-ever bath, always a nerve-wracking event? &quot;Pete did and he held on to her arm that tight her hand went blue!&quot;</p><p>She has never allowed Sophia to appear in the press, which is wise, and she has never done any 'at home' spreads. &quot;That way you open the door, don't you?&quot; And your wedding wasn't Hello!-ed? &quot;No, although it would have been very nice to have had it paid for!&quot; And you don't use Crème de la Mer? &quot;Nivea.&quot; Drat.</p><p>Finally, she drops me back at the station – &quot;Come on, you soft shite!&quot; – which is kind, and we part amicably although, I now realise, I've yet to receive an invite proper to the mini-farm party. It's my dry elbows, I bet. They've always held me back.</p><p>Whereas Miuccia Prada's recent seasons have seen her blokes kitted out in technicolor floral bri-nylon, lurex cardigans and stack-soled wedges, this time we saw suits... and suits... and suits. Grey, black, single and double-breasted, some with natty astrakhan collars, some seemingly sans trousers (but with flapping boxers and over-the-calf City Boy socks). It was all about the suit – but they were suits that could be worn anywhere and by just about anybody. Prada wasn't the only one proposing that men be permanently suited and booted for winter: the power of this label is in epitomising what's making fashion tick at any one moment. Hence Italian cohorts Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana proffered a parade of braid-embroidered gabardines, Tomas Maier's Bottega Veneta showed sleek, single-breasted styles and Christopher Bailey at Burberry Prorsum put a new twist on the Sloane Ranger with jewel-toned corduroy and whipcord two-pieces (Mellors flat-cap optional). Even Roberto Cavalli's usually navel-gazing, flesh-flashing catwalk was buttressed with Savile Row quality tailoring, give or take the odd odd chartreuse tux.</p><p>Is this really so surprising? The suit, after all, has been the linchpin of the male wardrobe for about two hundred years. What's rare is to see fashion designers embracing that conservatism with quite so much gusto.</p><p>The Italians, of course, have a tailoring tradition to rival Savile Row's – although their craftsmen dotted about Rome, Milan and Florence cannot compare with the world's only true &quot;disguisery&quot; (the wonderful plural noun for a group of tailors) on &quot;The Row&quot;. But the suit reigned supreme during Paris fashion week too, Lanvin's muscular and full-shouldered, Louis Vuitton's sleek in camel and grey, and leather-bound at Stefano Pilati's final menswear show for Yves Saint Laurent (Raf Simons showed that over in Milan for his penultimate Jil Sander collection, too).</p><p>So what does the suit represent in the menswear landscape of today?</p><p>Power on the one hand and conservatism on the other. Mere months before The Iron Lady nabbed Meryl Streep an Oscar for her depiction of Margaret Thatcher, it feels as if this could be fashion's return to Wall Street's &quot;Greed is good&quot; Eighties ethos. These suits may be relatively sombre, even staid at times, but they scream &quot;money&quot; in a way a sweatshirt never could. A suit today can be the perfect sartorial palimpsest for rebellion; a language of dress every man understands but which can be utilised to say something revolutionary.</p><p>That's the way the American designer Thom Browne has always looked at the suit, using its &quot;rules&quot; to fight against the conventions still evident in male fashion. Browne's suit, less skinny than shrunken, single-breasted with trousers cropped high on the ankle, has dominated male style for the past half-decade. &quot;My goal for my collection is to be provocative and to make people think,&quot; says Browne. That's the purported aim of much flamboyant modern menswear, the difference with Browne's work being that the basis for these experiments are classic grey wool suits that could have been worn by bankers in the fifties. Turn a blind eye to the attention-grabbing &quot;skorts&quot;, beaded kaftans and tulle puffs Browne often favours: it's the proportions of the suit that are the most controversial and interesting thing.</p><p>Browne's combination of an ultra-trad base with subtly radical details finds echoes throughout menswear today. It's there in a poplin men's shirt by young London label Palmer//Harding, tucks and spiral pleats giving it a third dimension; and equally in Lucas Ossendrijver and Alber Elbaz's cross-breeding of a down jacket and officer's greatcoat at Lanvin.</p><p>&quot;The mix between tradition and newness is the story of this collection,&quot; said Elbaz backstage. And, for many men, raised on Casual Fridays and sportswear as everyday wear, there is a newness in the tradition of the suit, full stop.</p><p>The omnipotence of the suit for autumn/winter 2012 is part of fashion's standard flash-in-the-pan seasonal volte-face, but men are universally reclaiming the classic suit as a means of dressing up for the everyday. &quot;What we're seeing more and more of is younger customers buying into suiting,&quot; says Adam Kelly, buying manager of men's formalwear at London's Selfridges. &quot;The look is in no way just about workwear or occasionwear any more – I think British guys in particular just have an increasingly vested interest in looking sharp.&quot; The cold hard facts back that assertion: at Selfridges, suiting sales to date have increased 28 per cent on last year. &quot;I look for something classic and timeless in dress,&quot; says Constantin Bjerke, the dapper founder and CEO of media website Crane.tv, who buys his suits from London's Turnbull &amp; Asser. &quot;A well-cut, beautifully-detailed and constructed suit will last a lifetime and always look stylish.&quot;</p><p>Nick Lazarus, a treaty underwriter with Hiscox in the City, concurs that in his clothes he seeks &quot;an emphasis on quality and not visual impact. Save the odd unfortunate incident, I have never really been one to stick my head above the parapet on account of an outlandish wardrobe&quot;.</p><p>Those characteristics – stylish, timeless, quality – are endlessly assigned to suits, especially in the bespoke bracket. The latter is suiting at its most traditional, time-consuming and expensive – ready-to-wear (or, as tailors often disparagingly term it, &quot;off the rack&quot;) cannot compare to bespoke, where a pattern is drafted to a customer's individual measurements. Savile Row tailor Richard James describes the bespoke process as &quot;indulgence... time spent considering fabric,working on style, discussing small but important details to devise a unique suit that not only fits you perfectly and makes you feel great, but is also something you helped create&quot;. Even made-to-measure is a poor substitute in the eyes of the tailoring trade. &quot;It's not quite the same as having someone actually take a set of measurements and alterations for your figure. You can't improve on the fittings... distilling the pattern down till it actually fits,&quot; says Ritchie Charlton, managing director of Hayward of Mount Street. Charlton has been in the tailoring trade for three decades, working at high-profile establishments including Kilgour French Stanbury and the tailoring workrooms of Her Majesty's choice dressmaker, Hartnell, under former Christian Dior designer Marc Bohan in the early 1990s. In short, he knows his stuff – today, his custom-made, four-figure suits clothe dedicated followers of style, rather than fashion, including Primal Scream's Bobby Gillespie and perennially pin-neat photographer Nick Knight. When asked about seasonal changes in bespoke, Charlton shrugs his shoulders and responds &quot;there are seasons as far as the weather goes&quot;. But he does concede that &quot;bespoke tailoring moves with men's fashion... a young guy who comes into the shop, generally he's going to want a neater, shorter-fitting jacket at the moment than perhaps he would have wanted in 2002.&quot;</p><p>That's possibly one of the most seductive things about suiting: the subtlety.</p><p>&quot;Every collection, I address different ideas of proportion,&quot; says Thom Browne, attesting that the elements that make his suits stand out are &quot;attention to detail, the quality of the make, but most importantly the proportion&quot;. That's what proves seductive for many men and indeed for designers: using the convention of the suit to say something new; a quiet radicalism.</p><p>That could be the strap-line for Savile Row's latest leap into the 21st century: a made-to-measure collaboration between H Huntsman &amp; Sons – a bespoke bastion of tailoring tradition – and Alexander McQueen, another bastion, albeit of iconoclastic rebellion. Both are quintessentially British: Huntsman has been tailoring to royalty for more than 160 years and McQueen, of course, created that dress. Lee McQueen himself was also responsible for outfitting royals in rather more anti-establishment styles, legend being that he scrawled a variety of four-letter pejoratives across the canvas interlining of suits destined for the Prince of Wales whilst apprenticing at Anderson &amp; Sheppard in the late 1980s.</p><p>Sarah Burton's offerings, available from June, veer towards the traditional, with cashmere frock-coats, dinner-jackets and, fittingly enough, Prince of Wales check suiting. Albeit with breeches and embroidered lapels, the jackets cut slimmer and tighter against the body. A tongue-in-cheek twist on three all-important classics of men's suiting, they seem tailor-made for the archetypal English dandy – probably the most compelling argument for any style-conscious gentleman when buying another perfectly-proportioned suit.</p><p>The catalogue business is setting up a £45 million joint venture with Chinese manufacturing giant Haier in a bid to tap into the country's buoyant economy and current spending boom.</p><br><br><p>Previous openings overseas have proved unsuccessful, including pilot stores in the Netherlands opened in 1998, while five stores in India were closed in 2009.</p><br><br><p>However, Argos will return to overseas expansion next year when it opens a trial store and internet delivery service in Shanghai, and ultimately aims to expand throughout the country.</p><br><br><p>It will follow in the footsteps of other UK retailers who have already got a foothold in the powerhouse Asian economy, such as Tesco, Burberry, Mothercare and Marks &amp; Spencer.</p><br><br><p>In the UK, Argos's customers are being badly hit by the squeeze in living standards because they tend to have lower disposable income and, with many renting, they have not benefited from the record low interest rates.</p><br><br><p>But in China, Argos hopes to tap into the booming middle classes who are spending freely as they reap the rewards of the country's rapid industrialisation.</p><br><br><p>The Chinese economy is expected to carry on growing faster than the West - it recently overtook Japan as the world's second biggest economy and is set to supplant the US as the number one economy in coming decades.</p><br><br><p>The new venture will draw on Argos's expertise in online retailing and Haier's distribution network in the country.</p><br><br><p>Haier, which makes TVs, fridges, freezers and washing machines, is one of the world's largest white goods manufacturers. It will own 51% of the joint venture.</p><p>PA</p><p>The retailer has also extended a contract with the same partner to sell its products in South-east Asia for a further six years until 2021, including in the new countries of Australia and Vietnam.</p><p>However, shares in Mulberry fell by 95p, or nearly 7 per cent, to £13 yesterday, although they are still up by more than 44 per cent over the past year. Other luxury goods companies, such as Burberry, have seen their share prices hit in recently weeks over fears of slower spending among China's luxury consumers.</p><p>Mulberry said it had agreed &quot;heads of terms&quot; for a new distribution agreement for Japan via a joint venture vehicle owned by Club 21 and Mammina, a subsidiary of the department store group Isetan Mitsukoshi.</p><p>Under its contract extension with Club 21, the partner will open Mulberry flagship stores in Singapore, Hong Kong, Shanghai and Beijing.</p><p>Available in four shades, this light reflecting liquid can be used on bare skin or mixed with foundation which will give you an all-over luminous glow.</p><p>£22, Nars, </p><p>2. Colour Skin Enhancer</p><p>Use as a primer, and while the soy proteins will moisturise, a light-trapping formula will leave your skin looking refreshed. Available in five shades.</p><p>£64.50, by Terry, </p><p>3. Lustre Drops in Pink Rebel</p><p>Add a 'pearlised' sheen to your face and body by dabbing on a few drops of this water-based liquid.</p><p>£17.50 MAC, </p><p>4. Watt's Up! Soft Focus Highlighter For Face</p><p>A good place to start if you're not confident about illuminating just yet. Glide this cream-to-powder product over your cheeks and blend.</p><p>£24.50, Benefit, </p><p>5. Uplifting Liquid Illuminator, 04 Bronze</p><p>Want glow, not glitter? You can achieve a sun-kissed look with only a hint of shimmer with this pump-action product. </p><p>£20, Clinique, </p><p>6. Fresh glow</p><p>Use as an all-over moisturiser for your face and décolletage, or just apply only to the areas you would like to highlight.</p><p>£34, Burberry, </p><p>This autumn, the company that manufactured the world's first waxed cotton motorcycle jackets will open a five-storey flagship store on Bond Street. What started as motorcyclist utility garb has become the clothing must-have for A-list celebrities. The firm's new collection, to be launched next month, is inspired by its British roots – less tailored, more baggy – under the creative direction of Martin Cooper, who was the head of outerwear at Burberry for 16 years.</p><p>Harry Slatkin, Belstaff's chief executive, told The Independent on Sunday: &quot;The brand started in England. When it was bought by Italians [in the 1990s], it started to lose its way and lose its language. We wanted to make a firm commitment that it is back in England and that we're proud to be an English brand.&quot;</p><p>Last year, Belstaff was bought by Labelux, based in Vienna. Months earlier, Labelux had bought Jimmy Choo for £500m. Four days later, Tommy Hilfiger became an investor and consultant. Both Slatkin, the founder of the fragrance company Slatkin &amp; Co, and Cooper joined the company and started the move back to Britain.</p><p>The firm was founded by Eli Belovitch and his son-in-law Harry Grosberg, in Longton, near Stoke, in 1924. At one time it produced more than 80,000 Trialmaster jackets a year. They were worn by bikers the world over, including the late Steve McQueen, star of The Great Escape. He started the move that helped such clothing cross the divide from niche market to mainstream appeal.</p><p>The firm once provided clothing for Lawrence of Arabia – Peter O'Toole as Lawrence died on his motorbike wearing Belstaff. Today, its clothing is a movie staple. The Malenotti family, who ran the company until last year, had as rich a history in film as in the ragtrade. Franco Malenotti, motorbike designer and champion rider with an obsession for the coats, started with Belstaff in 1986 and bought the firm when it ran into financial difficulties. His father, Maleno Malenotti, was a film producer, a contemporary of Federico Fellini who worked with Sophia Loren.</p><p>Since then, Belstaff clothing has been worn in blockbusters including The Curious Case of Benjamin Button (Brad Pitt), Sweeney Todd (Johnny Depp) and Mission: Impossible III (Tom Cruise). Malenotti himself appeared in Pirates of the Caribbean: On Stranger Tides, while George Clooney and Angelina Jolie regularly wear the jackets off-set. Daniel Radcliffe had a specially made &quot;Harry Blouson&quot;, while Sherlock's tweed coat, as worn by Benedict Cumberbatch, is Belstaffian.</p><p>It is not only on the big screen that the name is revered. Pope Benedict XVI wears bespoke Belstaff made from soft cotton – with white corduroy collar and cuffs – when walking in the Vatican gardens.</p><p>Great outdoors meets the in-crowd: The utility brands that conquered the catwalk</p><p>Oakley: Many people adopting the Oakley swagger are unaware the brand started in the 1980s, making bikers' goggles. Jim Jinnard produced the first pairs from his garage, with £150 in start-up capital. He named the firm after his dog.</p><p>Barbour: Founded in South Shields by John Barbour in 1894, the brand – which was also worn by Steve McQueen and holds a royal warrant – is now synonymous with country sports and wholesome walks.</p><p>Burberry: The 19th-century brand has consistently defied gloom-mongers during the recession and has survived being adopted as a fashion accessory by football hooligans in the 1980s.</p><p>Hunter: Who would have thought that 150 years after the North British Rubber Company started manufacturing, it would evolve into a wellie brand that united Kate Moss and Middle England? When David Cameron visited Washington in 2010, he took two pairs to give to the Obama children.</p><p>***</p><p>Thanks to Hansard for confirming what Between the Covers thought we heard when we listened to Education Questions on Monday. (We don't just read books, you know.) Not only is the Education Secretary, Michael Gove, making primary school children learn and recite poetry – he's also got Tory MPs doing it, too. Kevin Brennan (Labour, Cardiff West) asked: &quot;Why is the Secretary of State having such a chilling effect on teacher morale?&quot; Gove, inset bottom, replied: &quot;As Robert Burns, that great poet, once said, 'facts are chiels that winna ding' ...&quot;. Next, John Haynes spoke up: &quot;When I think of the Opposition, I am reminded of Eliot's words: 'Shape without form, shade without colour,/Paralysed force, gesture without motion.'&quot; Finally, Gove wrapped up the debate, saying: &quot;I must be brief because, as Shakespeare [left] said, 'Let me not to the marriage of true minds/Admit impediments'.&quot; Impressive – let's see more poetry in Parliament, please.</p><p>***</p><p>Fans of Irvine Welsh should look out for the new single &quot;Another Screen&quot; by Kormac, on which Welsh appears on vocals. Kormac wrote the song – a lament about our screen-focused lives – especially for Welsh, and turned up on his doorstep to ask him to take part. &quot;Rather than take out a restraining order,&quot; we're told, &quot;[Welsh] took him in, fed and watered him and sent him home with the track complete.&quot; The single is available on iTunes for 99p.</p><p>***</p><p>Do the results of a new poll by dottybingo.com help to explain the stratospheric success of E L James's 50 Shades of Grey, or just make it even more baffling? Forty-four per cent of the 400 members surveyed said they would rather read about sex than have it, and 43 per cent said that erotic literature made their own sex lives feel boring and routine. Readers, 50 Shades is not a fly-on-the-wall documentary, you know.</p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>Finally, a special request for the publishers of Clive James's enemies. James, best known as a broadcaster, critic, commentator and novelist, is also a brilliant poet who has published nine collections. One of his more famous poems is &quot;The Book of My Enemy Has Been Remaindered&quot;, in which he takes satisfaction in imagining monumental piles of his rival's failed book. James has told Radio 4's Meeting Myself Coming Back that he's been very ill for two years, and is &quot;getting near the end ... I'm a man approaching his terminus&quot;. He is not there yet, but please, publishers, remainder the books of his enemies, just to give him some cheer.</p><p>According to the latest league table from BrandFinance Global 500, the value of luxury goods brands has rocketed this year with the likes of Louis Vuitton, Hermes and Ralph Lauren increasing their brand values by up to 24 per cent, while supermarket brands such as Sainsbury’s and Asda have seen their brand value fall.</p><p>The supermarkets woes are in stark contrast to the growth in upmarket brands – luxury jeweller Tiffany &amp; Co made the Global 500 for the first time with a brand value of $2.9bn while purveyor of luxury cars - Rolls-Royce – saw a 17 per cent increase in the value of the brand. Luxury goods houses Prada and Coach re-entered the top 500 this year and Christian Dior and Burberry join Tiffany as newcomers.</p><p>David Haigh, the chief executive of Brand Finance, said: “The rise to prominence of luxury and lifestyle brands in this year’s report is impressive. Whilst the world remains shrouded in economic misery, people are investing their hard earned cash in brands they rely on to produce quality and long lasting products.”</p><p>As well as luxury goods, the techonology sector is the strongest contender in the brand stakes with 49 technology companies making the top 500 and Apple crowned king – it is ranked as the world’s most valuable brand at $70.6bn.</p><p>Aside from enraging more pedantic viewers by using the wrong name for the Union Flag, Martin's moment of doubt over his team's decision to decorate pieces of furniture by painting on the national flag was symptomatic of a wider crisis in confidence in the most iconic British design feature of all.</p><p>In a summer that includes the Queen's Diamond Jubilee celebrations and the London Olympics, we are bound to see more than ever of the Union Flag, which had its birthday yesterday on the 406th anniversary of it being introduced by James I to represent the unification of the crowns of England and Scotland.</p><p>Research produced this week by the brand consultancy Coley Porter Bell found that the rash of Union Flag imagery appearing on packaging was starting to irritate many consumers.</p><p>More than 56 per cent of respondents to the survey said that brands that wished to highlight the &quot;Britishness&quot; of their product should only do so subtly. More than 25 per cent went as far as to warn that they found such patriotism distasteful.</p><p>Some brands were regarded as having a right to boast of their Britishness, a list topped by British Airways and ranging from Burberry to Marmite (rebranded Ma'amite for the Jubilee, groan). Marks &amp; Spencer appears to have assumed it scores highly with consumers in this regard, judging by its latest advertising campaign, &quot;A Summer to Remember&quot;, showing Twiggy, Jamie Redknapp and friends cutting a cake with Union Flag icing and enjoying a jubilee garden party beneath the bunting. John Lewis has launched a &quot;Union Jack&quot; range of mugs, keyrings, umbrellas and tea caddies, though the kaleidoscopic colours would not be recognised by James I or any monarch since.</p><p>&quot;There has been a growing groundswell of British iconography,&quot; says John Clark, planning director at Coley Porter Bell. The public might be less sympathetic towards the SEBO vacuum cleaner brand, which has launched a &quot;Felix Royale&quot; model in Union Flag livery for those that feel that dusting is a matter of national pride. The Government has dived in with its &quot;Great&quot; campaign, with more red, white and blue than John Bull's waistcoat.</p><p>Since the Second World War, the British people have had a complex relationship with the Union Flag. To one generation it was a symbol of a nation's fight for survival. Their children wanted to turn it into something less serious. Pete Townshend of The Who's Union Flag blazer typified this new attitude. &quot;He went to Savile Row to get it done, but all the tailors said it would be sacrilege so he had to go to the East End instead,&quot; says Paolo Hewitt, co-author of The A to Z of Mod, published later this month. &quot;It wasn't being disrespectful, but saying that a new era was upon us and it was time to lighten the load of symbols like the target and the Union Jack.&quot;</p><p>When Morrissey wrapped himself in a Union Flag in 1992, many of those for whom the far-right's misappropriation of the banner was too raw recoiled at the sight. And yet soon afterwards Oasis embraced the same flag with the enthusiasm The Who had shown 30 years earlier.</p><p>That Britpop confidence has faded and Stella McCartney seems to have appreciated the current desire for subtlety in her designs for the Team GB kit in various shades of blue without any red. Patriots should make the most of it. With Scottish independence creeping closer, that Union Flag blue might not be about much longer.</p><p>The third day of London Fashion Week may have showcased some of the strongest home-grown players in the industry, but Dame Vivienne thinks we have much to learn. Showcasing the autumn 2012 collection of her Red Label line at London Fashion Week, the designer said the rise of disposable fashion had made people look too similar.</p><p>&quot;In history people dressed much better than we do... If you saw Queen Elizabeth it would be amazing, she came from another planet. She was so attractive in what she was wearing,&quot; she said.</p><p>Hardly surprising then that her collection took inspiration from more nostalgic forms of dress, from Jermyn Street stripes, Savile Row tailoring, tartan and duchesse satin to headscarves.</p><p>But the designer said people were too conformist.&quot;People have never looked so ugly... We are so conformist, nobody is thinking. I'm a fashion designer and people think 'what do I know?' but I'm talking about all this disposable crap. So I'm saying buy less, choose well, make it last.&quot;</p><p>London Fashion Week has a reputation for launching the careers of young stars and JW Anderson's show proved this. Only his third standalone womenswear show, this marked his arrival on the international circuit.</p><p>At the other end of the scale, the Topshop Unique show offered a selection of utilitarian pieces in bonded tweed and Prince of Wales check. Boiler suits and workwear-esque dungarees were reinvented in velvet with silk sleeves, pockets and panels at the cuffs. Party dresses got the hardware treatment, with zips functioning as straps.</p><p>Fedora-cum-baseball caps, as well as modish spike-heeled boots with brothel-creeper soles, were evidence of the sort of typically British eclecticism and streetwear aesthetic that has built this brand's successful reputation at home and overseas.</p><p>If the shows spoke of Britain's international credentials, the front row at Mulberry was a microcosm of that. Singer Lana Del Rey was there, in honour of the fact the luxury luggage label has named a bag from their autumn collection after her. Actor Michelle Williams was there too, as well as Elizabeth Olsen, evidence of the lure of one of the UK's most lucrative names.</p><p>Fashion Week continues today with shows from Burberry and Christopher Kane and a presentation from McQ, the subsidiary line from Alexander McQueen, which marks its first London presence in more than a decade.</p><p>Burberry Prorsum has been showcased in the British capital since 2008 (prior to that the show was in Milan alongside that city's big guns) and it gives London Fashion Week an ultra-glossy and unusually corporate international lift.</p><p>Still, the label is quintessentially British at heart as could be seen in yesterday's procession of outerwear all of which appeared, as if by magic, beneath a shower of (man-made) rain. Blanket coats, bombers, waxed jackets and of course the label's famous trench coat, this time cut in a gabardine and tweed mix, remain the core of its business to this day.</p><p>Christopher Bailey, Burberry's creative director, understands this sensibility well. More typically English references came in the form of flared riding skirts, overblown dress shirts borrowed from men, animal print T-shirts, and for the country-house soiree, fringed dresses and quilted velvet in the colour of the forthcoming autumn season: ox-blood.</p><p>As well as respecting Burberry's British heritage, the powers that be at the label consistently have an eye on the future where digital innovation is concerned. The show was live-streamed on its website and looks can be ordered online for seven days meaning any customers may find themselves in possession of their autumn 2012 wardrobe almost half a year before they reach stores.</p><p>Christopher Kane is a man who is known for taking the potentially stuffy cliches of the bourgeois wardrobe and twisting them slightly – or indeed quite a lot. His collection was inspired, he said, by art photographer Joseph Szabo's portraits of American teenagers and the ambivalence of adolescence. With that in mind, here was a woman – or in fact a girl – who strode down the runway in leather and pinstripe, velvet and moire, all in hard as nails colours – royal blue, true red, purple and predominantly black – and emphatically heavy square-toed ankle boots and Mary-Jane shoes.</p><p>If last season Kane invested the ubiquitous reference to mid-20th haute couture with a homespun feel, this time he darkened it to the point where it was almost gothic, and certainly mournful, in flavour. Black roses on narrow knee-length dresses were more nasty than nice; the ribbons threaded through neck-and waist-lines, similarly, came not in fluttering silks but padded black leather tied into stiff bows.</p><p>The over-riding toughness in mood belied the fine quality of workmanship and loving attention to detail throughout. Fabric treatments and embellishment were both extraordinary in their complexity and innovation. This could be seen in floral jewel-encrusted embroideries and garments covered entirely in what looked like pulled threads.</p><p>Chunky knit jumpers, cigarette pants and skinny leather coats only added to the impression of ferocity more than overt femininity in the stereotypical sense of the word.</p><p>The day kicked off with a confident showing courtesy of the designer pairing, Peter Pilotto and Christopher de Vos. Famed for their prints, the principal reference on this occasion was Japanese &quot;light trucks&quot; (literally, according to the show notes, cars covered in thousands of lights), Chinese mask make-up and overblown garden flowers – specifically lilac, carnation and iris.</p><p>This came stamped or embroidered on to everything from jeans and Puffa jackets with exaggerated collars to signature, body-conscious jersey dresses that kicked at the hem. While the hyper-technical quality of the whole might not be to everyone's taste, there was no disputing the talent on display here.</p><p>Burberry is ramping up its expansion plans after earmarking £200m for new stores this year as global demand for its luxury goods defies the downturn in the UK. The luxury brand, which will open in London, Brazil and Shanghai, unveiled a 26 per cent rise in pre-tax profits to £376m for the year to March, on sales up 24 per cent to £1.86bn. </p><p>Ahrendts gave them to the Ahrendts-Couch Family Foundation, which sold them at 1148p a share, totalling £574,000.</p><p>The couple set up the private charity in the past few weeks in Delaware to give to good causes.</p><p>Ahrendts came under attack earlier this year when it emerged she received a one-off £5.8m share payment last year.</p><p>Burberry will pay Paris-based InterParfums about €181m (£142m) to terminate the deal from December. But it is continuing discussions with the company about how to structure a new deal. It said the outcome of discussions is &quot;uncertain&quot;. Termination of the agreement leaves Burberry open to pursue other options if a deal cannot be struck with InterParfums. </p><p>Burberry said it had taken the decision to end the contract &quot;to maintain flexibility in pursuing its objective to develop fully this business in the future&quot;.</p><p>The British brand has been renegotiating a number of contracts and licensees in a wholesale shake-up of its global business in order to give Burberry more control of how its products are sold to customers.</p><p>Tailoring and enhanced ranges drove a 26% rise in menswear sales,while non-clothing such as bags, small leather goods and accessories lifted 50%.</p><p>Burberry's total revenues were up 24% to £1.9 billion in the yearto March 31 and pre-tax profits lifted to £366 million as key Asian markets showed more strong growth and flagship stores in London and Paris performed well.</p><p>It is planning 15 new outlets in the current financial year, withthe focus on larger format stores such as its relocated site in London's Regent Street.</p><p>There are 63 stores in mainland China, accounting for 12% of revenues, and Burberry said it would continue to invest in the under-penetrated market.</p><p>As well as doubling its number of Facebook fans to 12 million at the year end, Burberry has extended its presence on Chinese social mediaplatforms and launched other initiatives such as Tweetwalk during London Fashion Week.</p><p>Richard Hunter, head of equities at Hargreaves Lansdown stockbrokers, described the annual results performance as robust.</p><p>He added: &quot;A 24% rise in pre-tax profits defies some of the economic gloom, whilst the company's exposure to some strong local markets continues to propel prospects.&quot;</p><p>PA</p><p>The luxury-goods retailer said the rise in sales to £830m in the six months to the end of September from £673m a year ago, was driven by strong sales of &quot;outerwear&quot; – coats – especially its range of trench coats. Sales of leather goods were also particularly strong.</p><p>The Duchess of Cambridge sparked a scramble for Burberry trench coats in March after wearing one on a trip to Belfast, with the make selling out online the next day. The brand is also favoured by the Queen and Kate Moss and advertised by Harry Potter star Emma Watson.</p><p>Burberry reported a 45 per cent sales bump to £528m in its first half, as it sold more in existing stores, expanded to new ones and saw some strong returns from China.</p><p>Last month its shares had tumbled over concerns for the company's growth in the country after economists at Citi downgraded its economic outlook. Beyond the coats and leather bags, initiatives including men's tailoring and accessories, children's clothing and shoes continued to drive growth.</p><p>Angela Ahrends, Burberry's chief executive, said that the performance &quot;clearly demonstrates the continuing global momentum of the Burberry brand&quot;.</p><p>There was also a solid performance in its flagship markets, including New York, London, Paris and Hong Kong. The wholesale operation rose by one-fifth following sales to the Americas, emerging markets and of travel goods.</p><p>The company forecasts that average retail selling space will grow 15 per cent during the second half of its financial year. It hopes to open 25 new stores this year and double space in London.</p><p>Total sales came in at £408m for the three months to the end of June, showing an underlying increase of 11 per cent. That is down from 15 per cent in the previous quarter and below analysts' forecasts of 13 per cent.</p><p>The shares fell 7 per cent to 1,189p and its chief executive Angela Ahrendts admitted the company was facing a &quot;more challenging external environment&quot;.</p><p>The sales slowdown came as Burberry confirmed its new flagship store on Regent Street will miss the Olympics. It will not open until September, having been earmarked to open during the summer.</p><p>The luxury sector is beginning to show signs of the impact of Europe's debt crisis and slower growth in emerging markets, including China.</p><p>Stacey Cartwright, chief financial officer at Burberry, said: &quot;This is a robust performance. We were up against tough comparisons. But we have a huge amount of brand momentum and we are in line, or better than peers.&quot;</p><p>Bethany Hocking, an analyst at Investec, said: &quot;We expect Burberry's shares to suffer today. We note, however, that full-year guidance appears unchanged and the first quarter is Burberry's smallest quarter. It is also against the toughest comparisons.&quot;</p><p>Burberry has been putting its house in order, tidying up messy licence agreements in Japan and focusing on a &quot;legacy clean-up&quot;, getting rid of cheaper product lines and selling less through discount outlets.</p><p>This has had an impact on sales, Ms Cartwright said, but would mean its margins had improved.</p><p>She added that Burberry had been &quot;eliminating the non-British-made outerwear at the lower price points&quot; and focusing on &quot;weaved, British-made fabrics&quot;.</p><p>Despite being hit by a 5 per cent drop in licensing revenue, shop sales rose 14 per cent to £280m and comparable store sales were up 6 per cent.</p><p>Ms Cartwright said the focus remains on &quot;global flagship markets&quot; and the company will continue to open giant stores in key markets, where &quot;luxury travelling consumers&quot; continue to visit and spend.</p><p>Growth came from the UK, France, Germany and China, and several new stores are due to open this year, include in London, Chicago, Hong Kong and Shanghai.</p><p>In the capital, Burberry said London Fashion Week in September is a more desirable time to open a new store. </p><p>Ms Cartwright said: &quot;London will be interesting during the Olympics. There will be traffic chaos. </p><p>&quot;We are focused on the luxury travelling consumer, not those who are visiting for the Olympics. In Beijing, we didn't see an uplift at our store during the Olympics, so opening in September is better for us.&quot;</p><p>The luxury goods company could buy back the current licence which runs to 2017, extend it or even bid to take over Inter Parfums.</p><p>Sales of Burberry fragrances were €210m (£176m) last year and are growing with the recent launch of Burberry Body. </p><p>In recent years, Burberry has bought out many licences taking direct control of its interests.</p><p>Inter Parfums also makes and distributes perfumes for Van Cleef &amp; Arpels, Jimmy Choo, Paul Smith and Montblanc.</p><p>Analysts have predicted total sales growth up 18-20 per cent with sales for the quarter forecast to be close to £569m.</p><p>But like-for-like retail sales growth could be slightly down on last year at around 15 per cent.</p><p>The company's 10 million Facebook friends are testament to its growing social media presence – it released images from the catwalk yesterday on a Twitter &quot;tweetwalk&quot;.</p><p>The company's shares have been buffeted by concerns over China in recent months but Burberry stressed the country accounts for only 10 per cent of its global revenues and that Shanghai and Beijing represent just two of its 25 flagship markets globally. Angela Ahrendts, the chief executive of Burberry, said: &quot;It [China] is a nice and strong market. But it is not a market that Burberry is overly dependent on. There are 25 Londons around the world and that is where Burberry is focused.&quot; </p><p>Indeed, China, where Burberry acquired its 50 franchise stores in September 2010, delivered a 30 per cent jump in like-for-like sales.</p><p>Shares in Burberry fell 74p, or 5 per cent, to 1,347p yesterday, although they are up nearly 20 per cent this year. </p><p>For the six months to 30 September, Burberry posted a 26 per cent rise in underlying profits to £162m, on total revenues up 29 per cent to £830m. </p><p>The profit rise was driven by an increase in margins and double-digit revenue growth across all its regions, divisions and product categories. </p><p>Its retail gross margin rose by 2.4 per cent to 66.7 per cent. Ms Ahrendts also cited strong performances in London, Paris, New York, Dubai and Hong Kong. But Asia-Pacific was the star, growing retail and wholesale revenues by 51 per cent to £265.3m. </p><p>Since 2010, Burberry has doubled its workforce at its factory in Castleford, Yorkshire, which makes most of the gaberdine trenchcoats for its new Burberry Bespoke website. The site provides 12 million options, including different studs, cuffs and collars.</p><p>Like-for-like sales ground to a halt in the 10 weeks to 8 September, meaning its pre-tax profits for the year will come at the lower end of expectations. Analysts had predicted a total of between £407m and £455m. Following the announcement, shares slumped by almost 19 per cent, wiping £1bn from its market value in what one analyst described as &quot;shooting the messenger&quot; over a crisis across luxury brands.</p><p>Burberry CEO Angela Ahrendts said the company's second quarter growth had slowed against &quot;historically high comparatives&quot; in a &quot;challenging market&quot;. &quot;Given this background, we are tightly managing discretionary costs and taking appropriate actions to protect short- term profitability,&quot; she added.</p><p>In the short term, the company's headcount has been frozen, travel expenditure will be cut and new IT projects have been deferred. The long-term strategies, including expansion into emerging markets and a diversification into non-clothing products, are still in place.</p><p>As luxury giants LVMH (behind Louis Vuitton) and PPR (Gucci, Alexander McQueen) took single digit hits, analysts pondered whether there could be a problem with growth across high-end manufacturers. Ahrendts didn't specify whether results were hit in Western markets or emerging markets – leading to speculation it could be both.</p><p>The announcement was in stark contrast to an optimistic forecast at the opposite end of the retail sector. Primark said like-for-like sales had increased by 3 per cent in the year to 15 September, with 19 new branch launches increasing overall sales by 15 per cent.</p><p>Neil Saunders, managing director of retail analysts Conlumino, said the current economic climate protected super-cheap brands such as Primark, as well as those who sell to the &quot;über wealthy&quot;, but Burberry is a different beast. &quot;In Western markets, a lot of Burberry's success is predicated on the fact they sell to a wide market. It may be a luxury brand, but middle-market consumers will stretch their budget upwards to purchase Burberry items,&quot; he said. Brands that sell to the middle market, such as Marks &amp; Spencer, have had a difficult year.</p><p>Growth in China has slowed, Mr Saunders said, because &quot;luxury businesses have piled into those markets so now it's much more competitive&quot;. In an environment where companies can no longer rely on Asian and Latin American markets for growth, Burberry needed to address customers' needs, he said.</p><p>Jaana Jatyri, CEO of Trendstop.com, said Burberry had fallen foul of the fickle fashion world: &quot;In this climate, people are watching what they spend.&quot;</p><p>The first store opened in Dublin in 1969, but aggressive expansion in the UK and Europe in recent years has seen that number soar to 242 today, with 19 stores opened in the last year alone. Unashamedly cheap, Primark apes trends and appeals to a young but trend-savvy clientele. Skinny jeans sell for £11, and analysts are forecasting group profits (it's owned by Associated British Foods) for this year of £970m.</p><p>Founded in Basingstoke in 1856 by a draper's apprentice and later renowned for its distinct tartan pattern, Burberry saw its yearly sales boom to £3.5bn last year with the help of CEO Angela Ahrendts's commercial wiles and chief designer Christopher Bailey's fashion nous. Burberry has more than 500 outlets, and women's trench coats from the top Prorsum line start at £1,095.</p><p>Instead, guests were greeted at the vast marquee in Kensington Gardens by a projected London skyline, in which Burberry's newly opened 44,000 sq ft flagship store on Regent Street featured prominently.</p><p>And chief creative officer Christopher Bailey's collection was no less bombastic, a celebration of the Prorsum line's high-end credentials with sumptuous fabrics and couture detailing, and a reassertion of its hip-heritage status among some of the world's wealthiest private clients.</p><p>The label's signature trench was reworked in a spectrum of holographic shades, from hot pink via aubergine to cobalt and apple green, and reimagined as cropped mini-capes, bolero bomber jackets and cocoon coats with the voluminous sack-back and drop-shouldered silhouette so redolent of the 1950s golden age of atelier craftsmanship.</p><p>Artisanal touches came on plisse silk corsets, laser-cut lace outerwear and separates, and a bustier dress covered in royal blue feathers, a bold statement of the brand's unshakable luxe identity and faith in its chosen commercial route.</p><p>Young designer Christopher Kane meanwhile, dealt with the nuts and bolts in his offering yesterday. Sharply cut and classically feminine crêpe de Chine dresses in white, lemon yellow and bubblegum pink were ingeniously held together at the shoulder with moulded plastic fastenings shaped like wingnuts; they came as buttons on boxy jackets and skirts, too.</p><p>Restrained decoration came by way of fluid planes of fabric that cascaded down the front of minimal Sixties-style shift dresses. But Kane's vision of femininity was toughened up with padded leather motorcross jackets featuring an embossed pattern of roses, and haphazard strips of packing tape used as rough embellishment. His great strength as a designer is creating glamorously modern clothes that are conceptual, cool and comfortable.</p><p>Stiffly frilled organdie skirts and dresses were printed with nostalgically twee bows, which were later realised in 3D in the same rubberised plastic and worked into latticed skirts and jackets. &quot;That was a bit of a cash-and carry-moment,&quot; the designer said. &quot;The bows were meant to be sickly sweet, the colours were serene so you didn't know what was coming next.&quot;</p><p>London Fashion Week draws to a close today with shows from Mulberry and Meadham Kirchhoff.</p><p>Transport kindly provided by Mercedes Benz</p><p>Burberry Prorsum has been showcased in the British capital since 2009 (prior to that the show was in Milan alongside that city's big guns) and it gives London Fashion Week an ultra-glossy and unusually corporate international lift.</p><p></p><p>Still, the label is quintessentially British at heart as could be seen in yesterday's glamorous procession of outerwear all of which appeared, as if by magic, beneath a shower of (man-made) rain. Blanket coats, bombers, waxed jackets and of course the label's famous trench coat, which was this time cut in a gabardine and tweed mix, remain the core of its business to this day.</p><p>Christopher Bailey, Burberry's chief creative officer, understands this sensibility well. More typically English references came in the form of flared riding skirts, overblown dress shirts borrowed from men, animal print T-shirts, and for the country-house soiree, fringed dresses and quilted velvet in the colour of the forthcoming autumn season: ox-blood.</p><p>As well as respecting Burberry's British heritage, which remains the principal source of inspiration for the Prorsum collection and the brand as a whole, the powers that be at the label consistently have an eye on the future where digital innovation is concerned. The show was live-streamed on its website and looks can be ordered online for seven days meaning any customers may find themselves in possession of their autumn 2012 wardrobe and, of course, accessories finished with shiny brass duck and fox heads to go with it, almost half a year before they reach the store.</p><p>Christopher Kane is among London's most feted designers and a man who is known for taking the potentially stuffy cliches of the bourgeois wardrobe and twisting them slightly - or indeed quite a lot. His collection, shown earlier in the day, was inspired, he said, by art photographer Joseph Szabo's portraits of American teenagers and the ambivalence of adolescence. With that in mind, here was a woman - or in fact a girl - who strode down the runway in leather and pinstripe, velvet and moire, all in hard as nails colours - royal blue, true red, purple and predominantly black - and emphatically heavy square-toed ankle boots and Mary-Jane shoes.</p><p>If last season Kane invested the ubiquitous reference to mid-Twentieth haute couture that continues to sweep the ready-to-wear circuit with a homespun feel, this time he darkened it to the point where it was almost gothic, and certainly mournful, in flavour. Black roses appeared on narrow knee-length dresses that were more nasty than nice; the ribbons threaded through neck- and waist-lines, similarly, came not in fluttering silks but padded black leather tied into stiff bows.</p><p>The over-riding toughness in mood belied the fine quality of workmanship and loving  attention to detail throughout. Fabric treatments and embellishment were both extraordinary in their complexity and innovative. This could be seen in floral jewel-encrusted embroideries and garments covered entirely in what looked like pulled threads.</p><p>Chunky knit jumpers, cigarette pants and skinny leather coats only added to the impression of ferocity mor than overt femininity in the stereotypical sense of the word. It was all the more refreshing for that.</p><p>The day kicked off with a confident showing courtesy of the designer pairing, Peter Pilotto and Christopher de Vos. Famed for their prints, the principal reference on this occasion was Japanese 'light trucks' - literally, according to the show notes, cars covered in thousands of lights - Chinese mask make-up and overblown garden flowers - specifically lilac, carnation and iris.</p><p>This came stamped or embroidered onto everything from jeans and Puffa jackets with exaggerated collars to signature, body-conscious jersey dresses that kicked at the hem. While the hyper-technical quality of the whole might not be to everyone's taste, there was no disputing the talent on display here.</p><p>The Debrett's People of Today entry for ex-Formula 1 racing team owner Eddie Jordan needs to be updated as it emerged last week that Jordan and LDC private equity boss Darryl Eales snapped up the venerable guide to etiquette and genealogy, earlier this year. </p><p>There's been plenty of scepticism over oil explorers looking for black gold in the Falklands, so Rockhopper chief executive Sam Moody must feel vindicated after a $1bn deal on Thursday.</p><p>Premier Oil splashed out that amount to take a 60 per cent stake in the group.</p><p>Also on Thursday, Aegis boss Jerry Buhlmann announced the advertising group's £3.2bn sale to Japan's Dentsu. He stands to make £10m from the deal.</p><p>... at a loss</p><p>Barclays bosses and Bank of England deputy governors have had an awfully bad week but so have others.</p><p>On Tuesday, Kate Bostock, the one-time darling of the retail sector, quit as executive director for general merchandise at Marks 'n' Sparks, following the chain's worst UK sales performance in three-and-a-half years.</p><p>The myth that British luxury goods are immune to the financial crisis might not last for much longer after Burberry revealed a slowdown in sales growth on Wednesday with boss Angela Ahrendts admitting to a &quot;more challenging external environment&quot;. </p><p>On Thursday, Peugeot Citroen boss Philippe Varin admitted the French carmaker is losing €100m a month.</p><p>It shows the potential for &quot;cross-pollination&quot; between directors of the UK's top companies, a relationship usually between the non-executive directors of companies who sit on the all-important remuneration committees which set board pay.</p><p>Looking at the extent to which cross-pollination may be a factor in high-pay culture in boardrooms is one of the key issues being scrutinised by Vince Cable, the Business Secretary, who is due to report on new proposals on corporate pay early in the new year.</p><p>It is no surprise that FTSE 100 business leaders fear proposals that could put ordinary employees on the key committees that set the pay of their firms' bosses. But a recent Department for Business, Innovation and Skills discussion paper has raised the issue of whether the practice of senior executives of one company sitting on the remuneration committees of other firms has contributed to the culture that caused directors' pay to rise by 41 per cent last year.</p><p>The department paper referring to pollination between boards says: &quot;There may be a risk of this where a non-executive is involved in setting the pay of someone who, in another company, may have a role in setting theirs.&quot;</p><p>To look into the basis of &quot;cross-pollination&quot; concerns, The IoS examined the most recent published company annual reports and information on corporate websites.</p><p>At Bovis, the housebuilders, Colin Holmes chairs the remuneration committee with a former banker, Alastair Lyons, as one of the other two members. But at Admiral Group, the Confused.com insurance group, Holmes sits on its remuneration committee setting the pay of its chairman – Lyons.</p><p>The Department for Business says it is extremely common for individual directors to have a role in several companies, either as executives or part-time non-executives. So stakeholders had argued that &quot;there is a strong case for preventing these situations from arising&quot;, it states.</p><p>But Damien Knight, a director at the executive pay consultancy MM&amp;K, has submitted figures to the department claiming such practises are not common. &quot;It's just not true,&quot; he says. &quot;There is not one pair of FTSE 100 executives with membership of each other's boards.&quot;</p><p>However, there still may be cases where one party is a non-executive chairperson whose pay is set by these committees. Sir John Peace and David Tyler are both on the remuneration committee at the Burberry fashion group. But at the Experian credit agency – another FTSE 100 company – Tyler sits on its committee which decides the pay of the chairman, who is Peace.</p><p>The High Pay Commission last month produced a report calling for greater diversity on remuneration committees to curb the inflation in directors' rewards. Deborah Hargreaves, who chairs the commission, says: &quot;Our work has shown we must now break open the closed shop that sets pay for our top directors and get back to basics on executive pay.&quot;</p><p>She adds: &quot;The make-up of the non-executive directors, who determine executive pay deals, could be having an inflationary effect on pay. Even looked at in the most positive light, non-executive directors often come from a relatively small pool of individuals.&quot;</p><p>Remuneration committees comprise non-executive directors, some of whom can earn directorship fees of £125,000 a year. But the department's paper refers to concerns that they are drawn from too narrow a group – including executives of other companies.</p><p>Sarah Wilson, chief executive of the shareholder advisory firm Manifest monitors board structures, says &quot;We've moved on considerably from the days of cosy remuneration committees. I do not think one person can have that much influence.&quot;</p><p>But the TUC has told the Government it welcomes the proposal for employee representation on remuneration committees and is ready to organise training for workers. However, Janet Williamson, a senior policy officer, says: &quot;We are expecting fierce opposition from the corporate sector and the City. Those groups have a lot invested in the status quo.&quot;</p><p>The Association of British Insurers, which represents shareholders, will oppose the proposal. Its investor affairs spokesman, Marc Jobling, says: &quot;We agree that diversity of perspective is extremely important, not just on remuneration committees, but across the board as a whole. That addresses the 'cosy club' issue. There's a danger of group-think.&quot;</p><p>However, he claims directors' pay in European countries with worker-representatives can be equally high.</p><p>Even if straight swaps between boards are relatively rare, critics say the whole ethos of executives from one company setting the pay for top directors at another has the potential for a conflict of interest. While not directly boosting their own rewards, they are keeping corporate pay packages high, setting an environment for their own remuneration to rise when it is reviewed.</p><p>Hargreaves' reports states: &quot;The current market in executive pay relies on non-executive directors, acting in the interests of shareholders to bargain with the executive, who is acting in his own personal interest.</p><p>&quot;Most boards are made up predominantly of men from a financial or managerial background. Many of these non-executives are either current executive directors at other companies or recently retired executives. While they have no direct interest in the company, they may have an indirect financial interest in the level of remuneration given. Individuals taken from the same background are more prone to 'group think'.&quot;</p><p>Large numbers of executives on committees which set the pay for their peers can be detected in British boardrooms. For example, the Admiral's remuneration committee, which sets Lyons's pay, is chaired by John Sussens, who also chairs the committee at Cookson that assesses the pay of its chairman, Jeff Harris. But Harris sits on WH Smith's pay committee, which determines the pay package for its chief executive, Kate Swann – and she is on the pay committee at Babcock International whose chief executive is Peter Rogers. Rogers sits on the pay committee at Galliford Try, the house-building firm, alongside Andrew Jenner who is finance director at the Serco services group – whose chairman is also Alastair Lyons.</p><p>The remuneration committee at Experian, on which David Tyler also sits, sets the pay of the chief executive, Don Robert. He, in turn, sits on the remuneration committee of the catering group Compass which decides on the pay of the chief executive, Richard Cousins. Cousins is himself on the remuneration committee of Reckitt Benckiser, the household products business which was run by Bart Brecht. Tyler was himself a Reckitt director until 2009.</p><p>It's only recently that trade bodies such as the Institute of Directors have become more closely involved in the debate, as they fear that the reputation of business generally is being damaged. Indeed, it was the IoD's director general, Simon Walker, who attacked &quot;unsustainable&quot; rises in boardroom pay. And it is the IoD which suggests there should be voluntary discussions between employee representatives and remuneration committees and more information about the consultants used to help.</p><p>Croda was chosen by Deutsche Bank's Tim Jones as his top UK stock in the sector for 2012, citing a number of reasons, including his belief that demand for consumer products using its chemicals will continue to grow.</p><p>The analyst said that with more men wanting to take care of their appearance while an ageing population attempts to keep looking young, there has been a trend for &quot;increased grooming&quot; that has &quot;supported growth through the downturn&quot;.</p><p>The analyst, who kept his &quot;buy&quot; recommendation&quot;, also revived talk that Croda could become a bid target.</p><p>It is a familiar idea, with US company Dow Chemical one of the names frequently linked in takeover speculation.</p><p>Mr Jones said: &quot;External interest is possible given [Croda's] strong market positions, consumer focus and relatively small size of the company.&quot;</p><p>However, he conceded that &quot;valuation may prove an obstacle&quot; and predicted that in the sector &quot;management teams will remain cautious&quot;.</p><p>Despite the praise – which included his speculating that the company's strong balance sheet could see it returning more cash to punters – Croda eased up only 6p to 1,850p on the mid-tier index.</p><p>At the start of what was again described as a vital week for the eurozone, German leader Angela Merkel and and her French counterpart Nicolas Sarkozy's joint proposals for a new EU treaty were greeted with cautious optimism.</p><p>Yet while the FTSE 100 moved above the 5,600 level during trading for the first time since October, by the bell it was just 15.67 points stronger at 5,567.96, although this was still a five-week high.</p><p>The two state-backed blue-chip banks stormed ahead, with Lloyds grabbing the top spot after surging up 1.61p to 27p.</p><p>The sector was helped by Deutsche Bank's announcing that it remained &quot;positive on the UK domestic banks long-term&quot; and recommending punters buy into Lloyds as well as Royal Bank of Scotland (up 1.14p to 22.77p) and Barclays (up 1p to 191.65p).</p><p>Among the commodity stocks, Glencore International rose 14p to 424.95p after its boss Ivan Glasenberg claimed in an interview with the Swiss newspaper 20 Minuten that he would not get rid of any of his 15.8 per cent stake while working at the company.</p><p>Burberry was out of fashion with invesors, slipping 44p to 1,272p and propping up the foot of the top-tier index.</p><p>Unsurprisingly, it was gloomy news from China, one of the luxury brand's major growth markets, that did the damage after services sector data from the country showed further signs of a slowdown.</p><p>Good news may be rare in retail at the moment but as Peel Hunt pointed out, at least it's not snowing.</p><p>Twelve months ago, icy conditions forced shoppers to stay at home, whereas Christmas looks set to be milder this year.</p><p>The broker noted that online retailers, unable to offer their usual delivery guarantees, were particularly hit by last year's weather, citing Asos as one example.</p><p>Peel Hunt said that this year the AIM-listed clothing company's figures would impress in comparison.</p><p>Its analysts also upgraded its rating to &quot;buy&quot; in the wake of the group's share price losing more than 40 per cent since June. It rose 47p to 1,407p in response.</p><p>However, despite strong sales figures from sector bellwether John Lewis over the weekend, not every retailer was on the rise. Next declined 57p to 2,660p while Marks &amp; Spencer was 1.1p lower at 329p amid fears over sales discounts already being offered on the high street.</p><p>There was yet more woe for recruiters after Michael Page warned its profits for the year would be towards the lower end of City forecasts. It retreated 4.8p to 87.65p as a result. And coming after SThree's admission last week that it has seen a slowdown in trading , traders were looking nervously at sector peer Hays, which eased back 0.55p to 70.65p.</p><p>Evolution's Nigel Pearson clearly fancies himself as a film critic, arguing that while 3D technology &quot;cannot make a bad film good ... it can make a good film better&quot;. He went on to note that the increase this year in the number of 3D titles could only be good news for Cineworld, although the cinema company still failed to move from 204p.</p><p>Also on the small-cap index, its announcement that it had struck a €222 m (£191m) deal to sell its Norwegian business saw newspaper publisher Mecom climb 12p to 197p.</p><p>FTSE 100 Risers</p><p>l International Airlines Group 157.9p (up 4.4p, 2.87 per cent) British Airways owner climbs as its latest traffic figures show a 2.1 per cent increase in the number of passengers over November.</p><p>l Lonmin 1,076p (up 13p, 1.22 per cent) Platinum producer manages to strike deal with South Africa's National Union of Mineworkers to raise the pay of its employees by as much as 10 per cent.</p><p>FTSE 100 Fallers</p><p>l Centrica 293.1p (down 3.2p, 1.08 per cent) Owner of British Gas falls despite announcing it is looking for joint-investment opportunities in upstream oil and gas with Qatar Petroleum.</p><p>l British American Tobacco 2,933p (down 23.5p, 0.79 per cent) Cigarette manufacturer drops for the first time in six trading sessions, as punters decide to move away from defensive stocks.</p><p>FTSE 250 Risers</p><p>l Pace 67.9p (up 10.65p, 18.6 per cent) Set-top box maker helped by Numis upgrading its rating to &quot;hold&quot; in the wake of last week's news that major supplier Western Digital has restarted production in Thailand.</p><p>l SDL 663p (up 32.5p, 5.15 per cent) Translation software company still climbing after announcing on Friday it has managed to agree £68.4m takeover of small-cap marketing group Alterian.</p><p>FTSE 250 Fallers</p><p>l Bellway 732p (down 44.5p, 5.73 per cent) Housebuilder knocked back by Panmure Gordon's decision to downgrade its recommendation to &quot;hold&quot; from &quot;buy&quot;, citing the recent strong rise in the group's share price.</p><p>l Berkeley 1,316p (down 44p, 3.24 per cent) Builder slips despite a number of brokers – including Credit Suisse and UBS – all raising their target prices on the company following Friday's interim results.</p><p>I am struck by the ham analogy during a recent interview with Redmayne. Exactly 10 years since he was plucked from Cambridge University to play Viola opposite Mark Rylance's Olivia in a 400th-anniversary production of Twelfth Night, he has just learned that his current performance as Richard II at the Donmar Warehouse has been crowned Best Shakespearean Performance at the Critics' Circle Awards – no mean feat, given that the season has also seen heavyweight Shakespeare contributions from the likes of Spacey, Tennant, Sheen and Fiennes.</p><p>In the intervening decade between Viola and Richard, Redmayne has worked fastidiously and uncompromisingly. Allergic to anything resembling complacency, he rarely takes a day off. Now he is talking to me over a cup of tea before heading back to the theatre for that night's performance, and he is radiant with excitement at the Critics' Circle news.</p><p>&quot;It's just the loveliest, loveliest thing that could have happened,&quot; he admits. But where most actors would take such a prize as cue to relax and enjoy the last weeks of the run, Redmayne shakes his head. He's going back to work.</p><p>&quot;Because you never get it right,&quot; he insists. &quot;You never get it close to getting it right, you never get one line exactly how your notion of it should be. That's what's so exciting about theatre. Most actors hate watching their own films because all you can see is the glaring mistakes, your own tricks and ticks. But people often ask, how can you do the same play night after night for months on end and not get bored? And that's the reason. In theatre you always have the chance to try and fix what you did the night before.&quot;</p><p>It seems remarkable that the London-born Redmayne, who has just turned 30 and is having, by any definition, a golden moment, should remain so self-critical. As well as giving his Richard every night, making lines like &quot;I live by bread like you, feel want/ Taste grief, need friends&quot; seem revelatory, he is also gracing Sunday night television screens as Stephen Wraysford in a landmark BBC1 adaptation of Sebastian Faulks's Birdsong, and charming cinema audiences in My Week With Marilyn. As soon as Richard II closes, the former Eton and Cambridge choral scholar is off to play (and sing) Marius in Tom Hooper's big-screen musical adaptation of Les Misérables, with Russell Crowe, Hugh Jackman, Helena Bonham Carter and Anne Hathaway. And with major theatre awards from the Olivier to the Tony already to his name, he is now up for a Bafta – this year's Rising Star Award, which is voted for by the public – and looking, increasingly, like the one to beat.</p><p>But this is also the young man who was so unconvinced he would make it as an actor that he seriously considered other career options after graduating, including art history and banking (his father and one of his three brothers are in finance; nobody else in his family is in the arts).</p><p>&quot;I didn't go to drama school, so there was no official transformation stage, no moment where I got a certificate, even a bit of paper, saying 'right, you're allowed to do this now,'&quot; he points out.</p><p>&quot;After university, I gave myself a year. I was working in a pub and doing excruciating auditions and wondering if my new agent who'd taken this huge punt on me would sack me, and I remember getting a part in an episode of Doctors and it was probably the most exciting thing that had ever happened in my life. Then I went to Liverpool to do a play called Master Harold... and the Boys and I was living in a hostel on my own for three months and it was the most wonderful experience. I started to think, secretly, 'well, maybe I can do this'. But I came back to London and nobody took any notice and I went back to work at the pub. I always felt a bit fraudulent, like I was waiting to be exposed.&quot; Munching a biscuit, he contemplates this. &quot;In a way, I still do. I still feel this incredible sense of gratitude that anybody actually lets me do this professionally.&quot;</p><p>In any other actor, this might come across as galling false modesty. Given his current ubiquity, it's easy to imagine that Redmayne's success has arrived largely overnight; but that &quot;star&quot; to which the Bafta nomination alludes has been gradually rising for 10 years. It may also be tempting, considering the green eyes, 6ft 1in frame, and ridiculous cheekbones that have won him Burberry modelling contracts and a multitude of devoted fans both male and female – though he is currently single – to assume that this is just another talented pretty boy who happened to get very lucky. But ever since Rylance gave him that first big break, Redmayne has personified the old adage that luck is merely what happens when hard work meets opportunity. As his CV has swelled, so too has his dedication; the more professional triumphs that have come his way, the more he has put his head down and worked harder. He certainly takes nothing for granted.</p><p>&quot;Listen, acting is not surgery,&quot; he remarks, &quot;it's entertainment. You're doing something to hopefully move people, to make them laugh, to transport them. But actors are vulnerable, and the reason we're vulnerable is that we're always trying to recreate human behaviour. And any human being has the right to look at that behaviour and decide if it looks real to them or not. Everyone has that capacity for judgment, everyone can turn around and say, 'sorry, but I just don't believe that'. So if you have thin skin – and I don't have particularly thick skin – then your need to constantly please people, well... it's completely impossible. That's why I still feel I've got so much work to do, to really try and nail this thing.'</p><p>If the drama-school credentials are lacking, Redmayne is, by his own admission, a &quot;sponge&quot;, and right from the outset he found himself in a formidable real-life classroom. &quot;My first film, Like Minds, was with Toni Colette, who was extraordinary,&quot; he remembers. &quot;I mean it was basically a mini-masterclass for acting on film at a time when all you could probably see were my eyebrows bouncing up and down on screen.&quot; We work out that, over 10 films, he has worked with at least 10 Oscar-winning actors, from each of whom he has learned valuable lessons.</p><p>&quot;It's just the greatest luck,&quot; he maintains, sounding mildly incredulous, &quot;to have been able to work with such brilliant people.&quot; But while these other actors may arrive in a rehearsal room or on set with their ideas fixed – indeed William Hurt, whom Redmayne worked with on The Yellow Handkerchief, has his preferred rehearsal method guaranteed by a clause in his contract – Redmayne subscribes to no fixed approach. He loves, he says, &quot;to be part of a director's vision&quot;, and to mix the process up; whether it be Tim Carroll and Dominic Cooke's work with &quot;intentions&quot; or Michael Grandage's desire to get a play up on its feet almost immediately &quot;so that he captures those instinctive things; whatever you do when you don't know the play well enough to be thinking about it.&quot;</p><p>Is there a quality that unites the directors Redmayne admires, I wonder? He considers this. &quot;Taste?&quot; he ventures. &quot;Generosity of spirit? Certainly, they create an atmosphere of kindness and freedom, an environment in which an actor can really take risks, and they have the silent confidence of being sensationally bright.&quot; He clarifies. &quot;I mean, the intelligence is never demonstrated or bragged about but it's just there – so you feel confident in their confidence.&quot;</p><p>I ask which of his directors most exemplifies these traits and he eagerly cites early experiences with Tim Carroll (Twelfth Night), Phil Willmott (Master Harold... and the Boys), Dominic Cooke (Now or Later) and Tom Kalin (Savage Grace), as well as more recent ones with Michael Grandage (Red and Richard II), Derick Martini (Hick) and Philip Martin (Birdsong).</p><p>So, pretty much everybody then. Is this just the Redmayne people-pleasing imperative in action, I wonder? Has he ever had a rubbish experience? He blushes, lowers his eyes behind a gulp of tea. &quot;Well, there was one film I did – obviously I can't name names – but I was on set with a group of phenomenal actors doing a scene and struggling to make a particular line come alive and I had this great director standing over me going, 'come on, Eddie! I've seen you act on stage, I know you can do it, JUST MAKE IT LIVE!' It makes you... want to jump on the first plane to America.&quot;</p><p>Redmayne is a born-and-bred London boy, and seems almost as excited by the fact he has just had an offer accepted on his first flat, in Borough, as he is by his latest acting prize. But America has embraced him since day one; we have often joked how bizarre it is that he seems more at home playing dysfunctional, often gay Statesiders with distinctly warped backgrounds (most recently, a Texan serial-killing cowboy with a limp in Hick, for example) than well-balanced, well-educated, straight Englishmen from solid, happy families like his own.</p><p>&quot;Oh, this is an argument I often have with my mum,&quot; he chuckles. &quot;She always complains, &quot;but so-and-so's just playing himself,&quot; and I have to remind her that it's actually incredibly difficult to play yourself! But the further a character is from what you are, well...&quot; He thinks about this for a moment. &quot;It's like jumping off a cliff or something, and there's a high chance you're going to end up with egg on your face. So if you're going to end up with egg on your face anyway then it doesn't really matter how much; so you leap at it and go all guns blazing. When you're playing someone closer to you, you're much more constrained. All you can hear is how wrong you're getting it.'</p><p>There's that self-deprecating reflex again, but the metaphors he chooses, mixed though they may be, are revealing. I remember being struck, as we rehearsed a university production of David Hare's two-hander The Blue Room in 2001, that this was not your average college thesp. He pushed me – pushed us both – to go places with our characters that were dark, risky and dangerous. This capacity for plumbing depths is beautifully served in Birdsong. His wartime Stephen Wraysford is damaged and raw, while the flashbacks to 1910 reveal a young man in all his idealistic, romantic passion. That fissure within Wraysford is what most appealed to Redmayne, who had devoured the book as a teenager but had read a number of previous adaptation attempts that didn't seem to, in his terms, &quot;nail&quot; that conflict. &quot;The difficulty is that it's an extraordinary love story and then a World War One epic,&quot; he suggests. &quot;And the way the love story works, it's clandestine; it's one of deep eroticism that needs to be built through the unsaid, and delivered slowly. How do you do that and then the wartime plot, especially in a single film?&quot; Abi Morgan's version, though, did immediately impress him.</p><p>&quot;It didn't compromise or feel like it was cramming story into time but it had a length and a breadth that allowed the characters to breathe. And she had this conceit where Stephen's idyllic interlude in Amiens as a young man falling in love is juxtaposed with him during the war as this masochistic, cold human being. Actually, I think maybe it's similar to what I've been trying to do with Richard II. The audience see these two fundamentally different people, really taken to the extremes, and there's this vexed question that has to play out through the piece of how they might ever be reconciled.&quot;</p><p>On the mention of Richard, Redmayne checks the time, then jumps up. He's due back at the Donmar to revisit his flawed, vulnerable, painfully human king; and somehow – who knows how – try to improve upon whatever it was he did last night.</p><p>'Birdsong' ends Sunday, 9pm on BBC1. 'Richard II' is at the Donmar Warehouse, London () until 4 February. 'My Week with Marilyn' is in cinemas now</p><p>I realise that admitting you're a secret fan of Songs of Praise is like saying you believe in God or think that marriage is a good idea – something not mentioned in public. In the media world, you're a laughing stock if you admit to any of the above. Morality in modern society is a pick 'n'mix affair – feel free to do what you like and we won't judge you.</p><p>What fab roles models we've got in public life; the Milibands got married long after their kids were born, and Labour refuses to dignify marriage as a desirable state of affairs. God forbid Nick Clegg would raise his head above the parapet on this issue either. David Cameron approves of marriage – but hesitates to make it financially rewarding.</p><p>Our leaders are so feeble about morality and belief it makes me feel slightly nauseous. When it comes to discussion about religion in modern Britain, every minority has got to have equal airtime, equal prominence, even though new statistics show we're overwhelmingly a Christian society, 70 per cent claiming it as their faith. Muslims constitute only 4.4 per cent of the population.</p><p>In this climate of embarrassment about spirituality and personal values, I wasn't surprised to read that the BBC was thinking of phasing out AD and BC, and replacing it with the anodyne expression Common Era – although the director of editorial policy was on Radio 4's Feedback on Friday, backtracking like mad and claiming it was only an idea floated on a website. The BBC's head of religious broadcasting is Muslim, and the producer of Songs of Praise is a Sikh, neither of which bothers me. What I find more unsettling is the feeling that coverage of our mainstream religion is not regarded as a cornerstone of the output. Aaqil Ahmed, the BBC's head of religion and ethics (notice how religion gets only part-billing in his job description, ethics being now as important as belief), thinks that the Church of England is living in the past and shouldn't be given any preferential treatment. I agree about the former but not the latter.</p><p>The problem facing the Church of England can be summed up in two words – Rowan Williams. This uncharismatic academic wrote a disastrous editorial for the New Statesman earlier this year, moaning about the coalition and claiming politicians didn't understand the climate of &quot;fear&quot; in the country. The same unelected, unaccountable chap was due yesterday at the 60th birthday of another bloke, Bob Geldof, who is always telling democratically elected leaders what they're doing wrong. At least Saint Bob has raised millions for the world's poor and needy, whereas the Archbishop of Canterbury has failed to offer any kind of leadership to his flock and is now rumoured to be ready to resign before the end of his tenure.</p><p>The church sits on a property portfolio worth £5.3bn. It owns prime real estate, offices, shops, housing and 105,000 acres of farmland. Its bishops live in palaces, and the Church commissioners use their holdings to generate wealth to repair churches and fund their clergy. Over the years they have made some spectacular losses – £800m in the 1990s and £40m in 2010, when they invested in property in New York just before the crash. Shouldn't they use more of their huge wealth to reach out to the needy in modern Britain, demonstrating their faith through direct action?</p><p>In spite of 70 per cent of us saying we believe in God, the number attending church is plummeting. It's an unappealing use of our time. We're turned off by ineffectual leaders and the endless wavering over gay priests and female bishops. There's so much the Church of England could be doing – taking belief out of outdated buildings and into the lives of ordinary people in offices, canteens and schools. Rowan Williams has presided over a PR disaster for his church; at this rate, it will cease to exist except as somewhere we go to get married or be buried.</p><p>No wonder the BBC's head of religion thinks it's a turn-off. He's right, but please spare Songs of Praise.</p><p>Down and out in Paris – fashion hits rock bottom</p><p>The most unpleasant hours of my early career were spent at couture shows in Paris, when I wrote about fashion. Nothing seems to have changed. Designers employ hatchet- faced PRs who take malicious pleasure in inspecting your invitation as if it's forged and cramming you into cramped rows of tiny seats in airless spaces you would not put a hamster in, let alone several hundred overdressed sweaty adults.</p><p>Once in your unforgiving chair, you can expect to wait at least an hour for the &quot;show&quot; – usually a parade of unsmiling stick insects. Generally you can't see much, as photographers and favoured celebs fill the front row, with buyers next, and journalists further back. As the fashion press gives designers free publicity, without which their brands would be worthless, it's amazing more don't walk out.</p><p>At the Balenciaga show in Paris last week, the front benches collapsed, depositing everyone on the floor, and the entire audience, including VIPs such as actress Salma Hayek and Vogue's Anna Wintour, had to watch the show (and make notes) standing up. Burberry shows its range online and via Twitter – surely a better option than risking spinal injury from a faulty seat.</p><p>Wesker's fare has gone stale</p><p>Kitchen by Arnold Wesker, revived at the National Theatre, has stunning staging and choreography, and excellent, energetic performances. It's set in the kitchen of a busy West End restaurant in the late 1950s, and its cast of 31 makes the piece expensive to stage. But there could be another reason it is rarely performed: Wesker's play has absolutely nothing to say but the blindingly obvious. Yes, loads of nationalities work in catering.</p><p>Yes, their ups and downs could be a simile for a larger world. But this piece has a great big hollow at its heart. Why didn't Wesker let someone else update his work?</p><p>The bestseller race starts here</p><p>On Thursday, 225 hardback books, three times the number usually published in a week, hit the shops as publishers fight for our cash in the run-up to Christmas. In spite of talk of the demise of books, the 10 bestsellers in 2010 racked up sales worth more than £1m each.</p><p>Who will be the big winners this year? James Corden's autobiography, for sure. Jamie's Great Britain, half price in some shops, is already a runaway succes. But I'm not so sure about Heston Blumenthal at Home – this man left his home for a hot new mistress. Maybe some fans won't buy into his latest version of domestic bliss. </p><p>Today, the biggest movie franchise of all time is Harry Potter, with eight films and box office of $7,706,147,978 (£4,755,340,955) under its belt. Just as its creator J K Rowling is striking out with her first adult novel, The Casual Vacancy, so the films' three lead actors are beginning their post-Potter careers. At the ages of 24 (Rupert Grint), 23 (Daniel Radcliffe) and 22 (Emma Watson), they might well look at their predecessors' experience and wonder whether their best years are already behind them. Will they be Harrison Fords, or Mark Hamills?</p><p>Radcliffe has moved on with The Woman in Black, the most successful British horror film in 20 years. Grint was in the little-seen Second World War drama Into the White. And next week, Watson faces her first big box-office test since Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows Part Two eased past the $1.3bn mark to become the highest-grossing film of 2011, and the biggest earner of the whole series.</p><p>The Perks of Being a Wallflower is based on a beloved young adult novel by Stephen Chbosky, who is also its director. It is set in 1990s Pittsburgh, and once again Watson plays the girl in a boy-girl-boy trio of high-school outsiders navigating the perils of adolescence. In this case, of course, those perils are more proms than potions. The young actress is required to portray a regular, troubled teen; unlike most of her peers, however, she has limited personal experience from which to draw inspiration.</p><p>A wealthy celebrity throughout her own teens, Watson was cast as Hermione Granger, in Harry Potter and the Philosopher's Stone – the highest-grossing film of 2001 – when she was only nine. There is plenty of evidence, too, to suggest a precocious shrewdness about her career. After fulfilling her contract on the first four Potter films, Watson was the last of the three leads to commit to completing the franchise, and her salary per sequel was doubled to £2m. &quot;The pluses outweighed the minuses,&quot; the then-16-year-old said of her decision. &quot;Let's be honest,&quot; she told one US magazine, aged 17, &quot;I have enough money never to have to work again.&quot; She is now reported to be worth about £26m. These are not the life circumstances of a regular, troubled teen.</p><p>Watson was born in Paris in April 1990, the daughter of two British lawyers who divorced when she was a child. Aged five, she moved to Oxfordshire with her mother, Jacqueline, and younger brother, Alex. Her father, Chris, now lives in London, and her parents have two more children each from their second marriages. Back in England, Watson attended the prestigious, private Dragon School. At nearby Headington, she would later go on to achieve 10 As at GCSE. Meanwhile, she trained and performed part-time with the Oxford branch of Britain's biggest youth theatre school, Stagecoach, whose alumni also include Jamie Bell, Myleene Klass and Cher Lloyd. It was from Stagecoach that she was plucked to play Hermione in 1999.</p><p>As the Potter franchise grew in quality and popularity, Watson was consistently awarded more favourable reviews than her two co-stars, though all three of their performances went almost unnoticed, smothered by all the veteran British talent surrounding them: Gambon, Smith, Rickman, Fiennes et al. Watson, Radcliffe and Grint never put in a dud turn, but neither did any of them display the sort of promise that points to awards-laden adult careers – such as, say, Bell did in Billy Elliot.</p><p>In 2005, the young actress began a second career as a model, becoming the youngest ever cover star of Teen Vogue. Fashion endorsements and further magazine shoots followed. In 2009, she was named &quot;The Face of Burberry&quot;, and nowadays is known as &quot;The Face of Lancôme&quot;. That sideways move into modelling, she claims, was a deliberate attempt to create a public profile discernible from bossy, geeky Hermione Granger.</p><p>She remains highly visible on news-stands and billboards, and yet her effect on style is negligible compared with contemporaries such as Alexa Chung, Blake Lively or Kristen Stewart – also the star of a box-office-busting fantasy franchise, and whose surly, grunge-lite look is currently so in vogue. Last year, Watson was awarded Elle magazine's Style Icon Award by Vivienne Westwood, but not before the fashion designer could be heard wondering aloud at an awards ceremony: &quot;Who is Emma Watson?&quot;</p><p>Watson's personal life has always been the subject of speculation, as is predictable with any young star – especially an attractive female one. Yet she has so far proven level-headed. She declared her intention to attend university following the completion of her Harry Potter duties, and, sure enough, enrolled at the Ivy League Brown University in Providence, Rhode Island, in 2009. Last year, she transferred to Worcester College, Oxford, to study English for a year before returning to Brown. She is known to have dated actor Johnny Simmons, and indie rocker/model George Craig. Her present boyfriend, however, is fellow Oxford student Will Adamowicz, who also transferred to the UK from Brown for the year.</p><p>In 2007, Watson took on her first non-Potter role, as an aspiring actress in a BBC Boxing Day drama, Ballet Shoes. She has voiced a character in an animated feature, The Tale of Despereaux (2008), played a small part in the Monroe biopic My Week with Marilyn (2011), and even starred in a student production of Chekhov's Three Sisters at Brown – for which, of course, she received no fee. The Perks of Being a Wallflower will be her first lead role that involves no waving of wands.</p><p>Her future projects sound more ambitious. Watson has completed production on Sofia Coppola's The Bling Ring, a based-on-truth tale of teenagers who burgled the homes of Hollywood celebrities and &quot;fashion icons&quot;, including Paris Hilton. She's set to start filming on Darren Aronofsky's biblical epic Noah, alongside Russell Crowe and Anthony Hopkins, and is working with Guillermo del Toro on a new version of Beauty and the Beast – all of which suggests that she has not only fine taste in directors, but also an excellent agent.</p><p>In an interview with this week's New Yorker, J K Rowling discussed her career post-Potter. Her new novel is a dark and sometimes dirty satire on rural life, set around a parish council by-election. Teenagers and adults clash or coalesce in the village of Pagford, a microclimate not entirely unfamiliar to fans of Hogwarts. So fearful was the author of the pressure and scrutiny that would be heaped on her forthcoming work that she briefly planned to publish The Casual Vacancy under an assumed name.</p><p>The actors who have put faces to her wizarding characters can't even consider such a strategy. Hogwarts provided its protagonists with shelter from the harsher elements of the publishing and film industries, a protective insulation that will be harder to maintain the further they move from Harry, Ron and Hermione. Like Star Wars, Harry Potter created a world of its own, both onscreen and off: separate, somehow, from the day-to-day hits and flops of Hollywood. Now its stars, reduced to mere Muggles, will have to survive in a world without that magic. Watson, for one, looks well prepared.</p><p>A life in brief</p><p>Born: Emma Charlotte Duerre Watson, 15 April 1990, Paris.</p><p>Family: Parents divorced when she was five. Grew up in Oxfordshire with her mother and brother, Alex.</p><p>Education: Headington School and Dragon School, Oxford. Then Brown University in the US and Oxford University.</p><p>Career: Played Hermione in the Harry Potter films. Her first post-Potter lead role is in the just-opened The Perks of Being a Wallflower. Has been the &quot;face&quot; of both Burberry and Lancome.</p><p>She says: &quot;It's only recently that I've felt much better in my own skin and known my own worth a lot more.&quot;</p><p>They say: &quot;From the first moment, I thought you are going to be able to play a bright articulate girl with conviction, because that's who you are.&quot; J K Rowling</p><p>Reclining on a plush cream sofa with short, slicked hair and red lips, wearing a fitted black cocktail dress, she is every inch the sophisticated socialite. Poor Emma Watson, I then counter immediately, having constantly to prove to people like me that she isn't 11-years-old any more.</p><p>Her new role as the face of Lancôme's &quot;Rouge in Love&quot; lipstick range will go some way towards changing that view – shot by Mario Testino, the campaign captures her youthful vitality in a new and chic, gamine expression. It's rather more urbane and quite apart from the reputation for precociousness that the Harry Potter franchise – fairly or not – has foisted upon her.</p><p>&quot;As I've got older, and since I cut all my hair off, I've felt a bit more liberated about trying different things out,&quot; she smiles, when I suggest she has successfully shaken off the fetters of having played a gawky teenage witch for a decade. &quot;I think there's this idea that lipstick is something quite old or something you'd only wear at night. The nice thing about these is that they're really translucent, like a tinted lip balm, so you can wear them in a more casual way.&quot;</p><p>If she sounds like a professional, that's because she has been one for the majority of her 21 years. Picked from thousands to play Hermione Granger at the age of nine, after eight auditions for producer David Heyman, Watson is now – eight films later – rumoured to be worth £43m. She signed a contract with Lancôme in April to feature in the commercial for its Trésor Midnight Rose fragrance, and has been at Selfridges all day to promote the brand's latest launch of lipstick and nail varnish.</p><p>&quot;Make-up is actually something I've always really loved,&quot; she continues. &quot;The hair and make-up department on the Potter films were the people who saw me first thing in the morning and last thing at night, so that space was somewhere I felt at home. When we had spare time on set, I'd do their make-up and get them to teach me how to do stuff.&quot; Make-up artist on the films Amanda Knight remembers Watson making up extras for crowd scenes, too, but Watson has today left it to the professionals. &quot;I haven't had my make-up done for two or three months,&quot; she says, as if expecting me to say, &quot;No way!&quot; I raise my eyebrows and she laughs. &quot;I know! But it's really weird for me because I used to have it done every day. So it felt like a treat today.&quot;</p><p>She refers regularly to privileges and treats, to feeling lucky and counting her blessings, and she doesn't seem troubled or distracted by the host of opportunities available to her. She is studying English at Oxford, on a secondment from the American Ivy League campus Brown.</p><p>&quot;It's just given me time, really,&quot; she says. &quot;People use their time at university and at school, which I didn't have, to really think about and figure out what they want to do, and who they want to be. And it's been so nice not to be pushed around or pushed into doing things.&quot;</p><p>In fact, Watson has carefully peppered her career with choices that pertain very closely to her own interests, putting her name to a collection for eco-fashion range People Tree as well as partnering with designer Alberta Ferretti to work on a &quot;Pure Threads&quot; ethical line too. Her next film, The Perks of Being a Wallflower, will be released later this year. She paints and reads books. She has, she tells me guiltily, a university essay to hand in the next day, not yet finished.</p><p>&quot;Doing the Potters was such a bubble,&quot; she says, &quot;and then having to figure out how to function in the real world has been a challenge. But it's been the small successes for me: I know how to use a washing machine, I can cook. It's worth it to me not to feel disconnected from everything, feeling like I'm in touch with people who do other things than acting or being in the entertainment industry.&quot;</p><p>In a few hours, she will host the Lancôme pre-Baftas party, posing in a crimson lace Valentino dress for the world's cameras. But for the moment, she has her bare feet hooked up underneath her and is fiddling with her BlackBerry; she looks at the basil plant poking out of my shopping bag and wonders what I'm having for dinner. She is terribly normal – if elfishly beautiful – in her rendition of a well-brought-up young woman.</p><p>&quot;I think humour has been a help,&quot; she says. &quot;I have schoolfriends, a group of people around me, who have carried me through this whole experience and aren't fazed if they ask, 'Oh what are you doing tomorrow?' and I say, 'I'm going up to see Mario [Testino] in Notting Hill, he's shooting me for the new Lancôme campaign.' I don't know – it is mad, and some days I feel a bit mad, but it's the balance that keeps me sane. I don't fully live it, this side of my life.&quot;</p><p>Watson is sanguine about the attention she receives and is logical about it; she plans to travel more now that she has a more lax schedule, and talks about going to the post office, buying milk, getting the Tube, though I can't believe for a minute that she is actually able to do these things fuss-free. &quot;Some days, for some reason, I can't go anywhere and I'm like, 'That was a mistake,' and other days no one will even notice me.&quot;</p><p>There was a time, though, towards the end of the Potter franchise, when Watson came of age and began appearing on front rows at shows such as Chanel and Burberry, in whose billboard campaigns she featured along with her younger brother in 2009. &quot;I was fully game for 'Throw me in this, throw me in that,'&quot; she admits, &quot;but I'd like to develop my own sense of style, and dress for myself. The press destroyed me over this Rodarte dress I once wore – it was bright blue with chains on it.&quot; She laughs and shivers slightly. &quot;I loved it. And I wore a leather Christopher Kane dress with embroidered flowers all over it. It wasn't that crazy, but at the time...&quot;</p><p>She seems to have ridden out the post-Potter publicity admirably, though. &quot;Fashion gave me a chance to feel like I was something outside of Potter,&quot; she explains, of her appearances front row at shows such as Chanel and Burberry. &quot;I'm a multidimensional person and that's the freedom of fashion: that you're able to reinvent yourself through how you dress and how you cut your hair or whatever.&quot;</p><p>Her haircut was, of course, an international sensation, and turned into a global debate. Was it a good idea, did she regret it, why did she do it? Watson faced compliments and criticism in equal measure, staggeringly so. This was more than the average celeb 'do and more like a cultural event: Potter fans were horrified, while the fashion industry discreetly applauded the severing of Hermione's bookish locks.</p><p>&quot;I had journalists asking me if this meant I was coming out, if I was a lesbian now.&quot; She rolls her eyes. &quot;That haircut did make me realise how subjective everyone's opinion is. Some people were crazy for it and some people just thought I'd lost my shit. All I can do is follow my instincts, because I'll never please everyone.&quot;</p><p>1. Wooden shoe lasts, £49.95, Selfridges; purple patterned socks, £17, Paul Smith; Duchamp multi-striped socks, £16.95, Harrods; oval frame, £11, and square frame, £9, John Lewis</p><p>2. Hugo Guinness for Coach billfolds, £130 each, Coach</p><p>3. Burberry Prorsum duffel coat with detachable hood, £1,895, Selfridges</p><p>4. Mr Chocolate moustaches, £4.99, Selfridges</p><p>5. Anatomica 8-inch plate, £50, National Gallery shop</p><p>6. Marni polka-dot cashmere scarf, £395, Mr Porter</p><p>7. 'Crazy Clown Time', David Lynch, £8.99, Amazon</p><p>8. Loewe Airplay speakers, £649 each, Selfridges</p><p>9. Jansen mug, £10.50, Liberty</p><p>10. Ties, £60 each, Brian Clarke</p><p>11. Green Cycloc bicycle storage, £61, Bodie &amp; Fou</p><p>12. Etre Fivepoint texting gloves, £40, Selfridges</p><p>13. Cuben cushion by Simon C Page, £39, This is a Limited Edition</p><p>14. House of Holland pants, £21 each, Selfridges</p><p>15. Folk ruck bobble hat, £65, Liberty</p><p>16. Chuck Taylor All Star Hi, £81, Converse</p><p>17. '@earth' by Peter Kennard and Tarek Salhany, £9.99, Tate shop</p><p>18. Washed holdall, £38, Next</p><p>Click the links below to view the gift guides</p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>The two women preside over modern textiles and fashion, and 20th century fashion there respectively. This is indeed an exhibition that lifts the spirits and that is ultimately as light-hearted as many of the designs included display lightness of touch. It is also the place to go to see some of the biggest, boldest, most beautiful and, at times, most crazed party dresses imaginable.</p><p>Take as prime example of the latter Cindy Beadman's late 1970s gown and accompanying coat, a fondant-hued extravaganza that comes complete with tiny quilted princess in her tower on its bodice, many, many sugar-pink roses here, there and everywhere, and even a hand-embroidered silver fairytale at the hem. &quot;They lived happily ever after in the land of eternal youth&quot; reads its hemline in suitably curvaceous – and just marginally sinister – script. American-born Beadman lived the dream in rural Oxfordshire apparently, Cullen explains, and the dress in question was worn by Anita Harris way back when. Worthy of Grayson Perry at his most hyper-feminine, it is perhaps the greatest example of designer folly in evidence. And given the premise, that is quite something. No less attention-seeking – though fierce over and above purely frivolous – is Zandra Rhodes' enormous gold lamé design with pleated panniers and ruffles the size of elephant ears. Dated 1981, it is the sartorial embodiment of a Ferrero Rocher chocolate, if you will, courtesy of one of Britain's most flamboyant talents.</p><p>Ossie Clarke's gold leather jacket and corset, paired with an ultraviolet lace skirt, is another example of this country's affinity with peacock dressing and with rule breaking, too. Whatever, these are not clothes that are aimed at the shy.</p><p>The show is the first to be located in the museum's newly redesigned fashion gallery. Around 100 outfits from the museum's permanent collection are presented chronologically around its circumference and they are testimony, if ever any were needed, that there's nothing like a short, sharp edit to make fashion history sing. Around 50 per cent of the ballgowns in the show are owned by the V&amp;A also and the rest have been lent or donated by hardened ballgown lovers from Joan Collins (a pastel-pink, flower-strewn meringue designed by David and Elizabeth Emanuel) to Rosie Huntington-Whiteley (more narrow and contemporary: Burberry, Antonio Berardi).</p><p>The first floor is dedicated to the history of this work-intensive garment from the 1950s through to the mid-Noughties, taking in names including Worth London, Hardy Amies, Victor Stiebel, Yuki, Bill Gibb, John Cavanagh and Catherine Walker. The latter designer's high-collared white satin &quot;Elvis&quot; jacket and gown, hand-embroidered with tens of thousands of oyster pearls and made for the Princess of Wales, is all present and correct, for example. These are shown in a collection of vitrines that evoke the relatively demure and quaint environment of the dressing room of a young woman of means.</p><p>As well as the aforementioned outré looks, there's a comparatively quiet loveliness to a bell-shaped gown designed by Norman Hartnell for the Queen Mother in 1953. (Hartnell famously designed the Queen's Coronation gown.) This one's embroidered with jewelled, cornflower blue blossom and has panels of pleated tulle at the shoulder to ensure ma'am's upper arms are presented in the most pleasing way possible. It demonstrates the ability of a truly great dressmaker to both show consideration to the wearer and to crowd-please on a grand scale in one fell swoop.</p><p>According to Cullen, the overblown skirt that for the most part dominates, and that was upheld by this Royal Family member from the 1930s onwards in particular, was achieved post-crinoline by sewing as many layers of net into a waistline as it could accommodate. It is favoured both for its princessy connotations and because &quot;it is a chance for a designer to make a statement – it's a blank canvas [a very large blank canvas] upon which they can showcase their expertise,&quot; she says.</p><p>There is an unashamed nostalgia to the look. &quot;That romantic tendency is very British,&quot; Cullen argues, &quot;and it's somehow different to the sophistication of Paris designs.&quot; It's true that there is an innocence to more traditional pieces such as these that harks back to a time when young debutantes came out for &quot;the season&quot; in the hope of meeting suitable husbands and were presented at court in strapless white puffs of dresses and the requisite long evening gloves (also white) should anyone think too much flesh was exposed.</p><p>Dame Vivienne Westwood's riposte to such a studiously virginal wardrobe is more wanton and no less wonderful for that. Her &quot;debutante&quot; dress dated 1994 has a signature corset proudly on display and a shredded hem as if our heroine has struggled over hill and dale battling against the elements to meet her beau.</p><p>In fact, Westwood's sensibility and wit clearly paves the way for many of the designs on the mezzanine floor – or for the duration of this show, &quot;the ballroom&quot; – that date from 2005 to the present and showcase the modern ballgown which, following in the footsteps of the grande dame of British fashion, upholds many of the requirements of formal dress all while subverting them.</p><p>Giles Deacon's pleated silk &quot;carwash&quot; dress (2007) rubs shoulders with a body-conscious floor-length gown constructed out of loops of silver leather by Gareth Pugh especially for the show. Then there's Atsuko Kudo's fetishistic latex snakeskin-print dress to consider; a feathered design made by Sarah Burton for Alexander McQueen and worn by Daphne Guinness to the 2011 Costume Institute Ball; a Stella McCartney gown with a bifurcated skirt sported by Annette Bening to the Golden Globes and the Jacques Azagury ensemble chosen by Helen Mirren when she picked up the Oscar for Best Actress for her performance in The Queen.</p><p>Despite including the odd red-carpet moment, this is less amplified exhibition than many of the recent international fashion blockbusters. That is not least because the latter are largely paid for by the fashion behemoths whose work they celebrate, somewhat lessening their impact in terms of academic value. Ballgowns is sponsored by Coutts and it is positively frugal by comparison. The effect is refreshing in its lack of bombast, whether that is intentional or not, and also apposite. Because if there is a single unifying factor to the show it may be found in a sense that the majority of the gowns on display here have their own stories and were worn and loved by the people for whom they were made. And that, it almost goes without saying, is a million miles away from the here today/gone tomorrow spirit that contemporary fashion all too often represents even at it is and all the more charming for that.</p><p>&quot;That's another facet of the British ballgown,&quot; Cullen agrees. &quot;These things were worn and worn.&quot;</p><p>Ballgowns: British Glamour Since 1950, Victoria &amp; Albert Museum, May 19 to January 2013; vam.ac.uk</p><p>'Ballgowns: British Glamour Since 1950', edited by Oriole Cullen and Sonnet Stanfill, £20 V&amp;A Publishing, is out now</p><p>Ms Hill, who joined Mulberry in March 2008 after stints with Marks &amp; Spencer and Burberry, was appointed CBE.</p><p>Her efforts had previously earned her Best Accessories Designer at the 2011 Elle Style Awards and Best Designer Brand at the 2010 British Fashion Awards.</p><p>Burton, who designed the gown of Prince William's bride, was appointed OBE. After much speculation, she was chosen to take over from her mentor Alexander McQueen, who died in 2010.</p><p>She promised to stay true to his legacy, crediting him with teaching her everything she knew.</p><p>&quot;Everything I know I learned here. If you didn't know how to do something, Lee made you take on the challenge and would teach you how, or leave you to figure out how to do it yourself.</p><p>&quot;He once handed over a bias-cut houndstooth dress and said, 'Now, put a zip in it', then left for the weekend,&quot; she once said of McQueen.</p><p>It is, but not in the way you might assume. A spate of recent openings in the capital is proof of how fashion brands are adapting to compete with the rise of online convenience by fitting their premises out with technological gadgetry that promises to make shopping there an experience well worth the effort.</p><p>&quot;Many luxury brands have been reluctant to embrace new technologies as their values rest on craftsmanship and tradition,&quot; explains Olivia Solon, associate editor of Wired magazine. &quot;But a new breed of creative technologists and interaction designers are showing that circuit boards and pixels can be beautiful and aspirational as well as functional and ubiquitous.&quot; It depends to which theory you subscribe: that being in a shop makes you more likely to spend, or that the ease of one-click purchasing is more liable to make you profligate.</p><p>Either way, businesses must come up with increasingly complex – not to mention entertaining – ways of parting us from our cash. The new Burberry store on London's Regent Street is a monument to the brand's 156-year history as a heritage supplier of traditional outerwear. But alongside the pomp and circumstance sits some of the high-spec tech that the brand has become famous for recently. The 44,000 sq ft space houses 500 speakers and 100 screens, which feature brand imagery and catwalk videos, but will come into their own at in-store gigs and live-streamed fashion shows.</p><p>&quot;Regent Street is one of the most architecturally and culturally significant projects we have undertaken,&quot; says Christopher Bailey, the label's chief creative officer, &quot;bringing our physical and digital worlds together to create amazing experiences that encompass everything from fashion, to heritage, to music.&quot;</p><p>The aim is make customers feel like they are physically within the brand's website. If that sounds slightly oppressive, think of it this way: shopping in this store feels like the future as you imagined it as a child.</p><p>The old-school luxury is there (but of course) with added extras. Mirrors morph into video screens as you approach and at certain times of day, they screen rain showers within the store as part of an exciting immersion exercise; one that will, Burberry hopes, subliminally encourage you to buy one of their famous trenches.</p><p>Bring an item close to one of the mirrors and the screen shifts automatically to give you a 360-degree view of it. Sure, you could just turn it over in your hands – but who wants that when you can have it projected 15-feet high? Take a jacket into one of the changing rooms and an auto-sensory tag inside directs the mirror to show you it with zoom-able details, or as it was worn in the catwalk show. That might mean seeing how a 7ft-tall 19-year-old looked in it, but what's self-esteem compared to feeling a bit like Tom Cruise in Minority Report?</p><p>&quot;It can be a bit gimmicky and tacky,&quot; says Olivia Solon, &quot;but luxury brands seem to be extremely conscious of this – it very much depends on the execution.&quot; In Mayfair, a three-storey Georgian townhouse has recently been refurbished as the flagship store of McQ, Alexander McQueen's sister label. In the window, painstakingly embroidered, full-skirted tulle and appliqué dresses stand as testament to the house's commitment to atelier-level workmanship, while inside a raft of whizzy electronic devices are just as indicative of its progressive mindset.</p><p>Placing magnetic frames onto a touch-screen table allows you to explore the label's lookbooks and catwalk imagery; with one drag and flick, you can &quot;throw&quot; pictures onto a floor-to-ceiling screen on the wall opposite to either watch the show or see outfits in glorious technicolor. If there's something you particularly like, you can email it to yourself or your friends, or share it on Facebook or Twitter, with another few swipes. And all the while, you can pretend you're manning the Starship Enterprise.</p><p>We wanted to create a story and a home for McQ,&quot; explains McQueen's creative director Sarah Burton. &quot;The store offers special catwalk pieces alongside ready-to-wear collections in a rich, immersive environment.&quot;</p><p>The mens- and womenswear floors boast interactive mirrors, which switch from slideshows to giant cameras when you step in front of them. Try on some of this season's Blackwatch tartan, snap yourself and email it to your friends to get their opinion on whether to buy it or not. It builds on the fact most people are taking these kinds of shots on their phones behind the curtains anyway – only this time, you do it on the shop floor. But if you're posting the picture on Facebook, chances are you're no shrinking violet.</p><p>While these installations are undeniably fun, it remains to be seen how efficacious they might be at pulling us out of our spending slump. But they make being inside a store more exciting and will go some way towards making customers feel valued as visitors rather than mere cash-cows. The digital aspects of these new stores are as much part of a branding exercise as they are about gathering data from social media, widening appeal or luring you in.</p><p>That's the logic behind the interactive screen at Bond Street's newly revamped DKNY store. In keeping with the youthful spirit of Donna Karan's diffusion line, the brand already has quite an online presence and focus. Its Twitter feed, DKNY PR Girl, was the first of many to make use of a more personal, witty and insider approach that genuinely interests followers much more than the hard sell ever could.</p><p>In the store, you can use a large touchscreen wall to access the PR Girl blog and Twitter and find out more about what she has been up to, and you can watch back the runway footage from the label's biannual shows in Manhattan. For a brand that is rooted so firmly in Big Apple culture, seeing the clothes in their original habitat gives a new context to the versions hanging up around you.</p><p>These high-end brands are at the forefront of shopping in a digital world, but it won't be long until the technology makes its way to a high street near you. Several stores already provide iPads so you can check their stock more easily; in 2010, Topshop, working with Nick Knight's visionary SHOWstudio site, held a series of sessions where customers looked in a webcam mirror and received live-chat feedback on their look from a selection of fashion experts.</p><p>Whatever comes next (dressing a hologram of yourself from the comfort of the café, perhaps?), our love of shopping and passion for gadgets is bound to result in an ever more personalised shopping experience, which suit even the pickiest of fashion palettes.</p><p>In a surprise update, the group revealed it had been hit by a slowdown in spending across the world. </p><p>The darling of the fashion scene had once enjoyed sales growth in double digits, but yesterday it reported that like-for-like sales ground to a halt in the 10 weeks to 8 September, and its full year profits would be at the bottom end of expectations at about £407m.</p><p>Retail sales, including from new stores, were up 6 per cent. The slowdown compares with a strong first quarter, when retail sales grew by 14 per cent. </p><p>The chief financial officer Stacey Cartwright said: &quot;In the last two weeks there has been a global slowdown. We have seen this across the board in Asia, the US, Europe and the UK.&quot;</p><p>Luca Solca, a luxury brands expert at CA Chevreux, blamed Burberry's reliance on very high-end clothing rather than accessories such as handbags. He said: &quot;Apparel – on which Burberry is more dependent than other mega-brands – is softer. In difficult times consumers prefer leather goods and hard luxury accessories as they are more visible and work better as status symbols.&quot;</p><p>Ms Cartwright said: &quot;The level of growth has slowed but for most people 6 per cent growth would be very good.&quot;</p><p>Despite its issues, the brand is gearing up for London Fashion Week, where it will present its Burberry Prorsum womenswear spring/summer show on Monday.</p><p>Burberry's shares crashed 287p to 1,088p.</p><p>He also lost his own label, only days before shows for both were staged. Everyone from Karl Lagerfeld to Natalie Portman (among the faces of Dior) was quick to condemn the designer, who, in September, was found guilty on both charges. Those who witnessed the extraordinary workings of his mind couldn't help but mourn his departure from a position that he lit up with his wild imaginings.</p><p>2. Art attack</p><p>The gap between high and low culture continued to narrow as Yves Saint Laurent's Stefano Pilati dressed the cast of Harold Pinter's Betrayal for Ian Rickson's production at London's Comedy Theatre in June. Kristin Scott Thomas, Douglas Henshall and Ben Miles all wore his designs. In November, Louis Vuitton unveiled a trunk created in collaboration with Grayson Perry, with his bear Alan Measles – or at least a stunt double – in pride of place. LV is the title sponsor of Perry's ongoing British Museum show.</p><p>3. Harsh words</p><p>In March Hermès CEO Patrick Thomas accused LVMH (Louis Vuitton Moët Hennessy) president Bernard Arnault of &quot;rape&quot;, when it was revealed that the latter had acquired a 20 per cent stake of his label. In an uncharacteristically exasperated moment in the history of a venerable status name, Thomas said: &quot;If you want to seduce a beautiful woman, you don't start by raping her from behind.&quot; That same month, Christophe Lemaire took over from Jean-Paul Gaultier as creative director of Hermès womenswear and showed his first collection there.</p><p>4. Happy birthday</p><p>On 8 April, Vivienne Westwood turned 70. Gucci celebrated its 90th birthday with the opening of a Gucci museum in its hometown of Florence in September. The Marc by Marc Jacobs collection was born a decade ago this year as was designer Peter Jensen's eponymous label – a book was published to commemorate the event in the autumn, and last month Jensen staged a retrospective fashion show at the Victoria &amp; Albert Museum. Dazed &amp; Confused is now 20, meanwhile. Another book (Making It Up As We Go Along, published by Rizzoli) and an exhibition of pioneering photographic work (at Somerset House, central London) marked this anniversary.</p><p>5. There went the brides</p><p>While Alexander McQueen's Sarah Burton denied claims that she would be dressing Catherine Middleton for her marriage to Prince William, on 27 April she was spotted entering the Gore Hotel in Kensington where the Middletons spent the night before the wedding and the truth was out. The gown was received as a thing of great and suitably modest beauty the world over. No one could ever accuse Kim Kardashian of modesty. Kardashian commissioned no less than three wedding dresses for her marriage to Kris Humphreys on 20 August, all by Vera Wang. Wang has since designed affordable copies for lesser mortals and due to go on sale in February, some time after Ms Kardashian filed for divorce, then, which is romantic. Her marriage lasted just 72 days. Another Kate – Ms Moss – got married too, to long-time partner, Jamie Hince, on 2 July and wearing an ivory bias-cut slip made for her by John Galliano.</p><p>6. The rumour mill</p><p>Even before Galliano had officially parted company with Dior, the rumour mill began turning regarding his successor. Until recently, Marc Jacobs, creative director of Louis Vuitton, was considered to be frontrunner, but it is now believed that Raf Simons is the main contender. Givenchy's Riccardo Tisci, Alexander McQueen's Sarah Burton and Balenciaga's Nicolas Ghesquière have also been cited as in the frame. While LVMH continues its search, Galliano's long-time first assistant designer, Bill Gaytten has taken over his signature line and is also caretaker at Dior.</p><p>7. Ruby slippers</p><p>On 8 April, it emerged that shoemaker to the stars, Christian Louboutin, was suing Yves Saint Laurent for using a red sole to match the upper of a new-season suede pump. Louboutin trademarked his signature sole in 2008 and asked YSL to withdraw the offending item. &quot;M Louboutin is the first designer to develop the idea of having red soles on women's shoes,&quot; his lawsuit stated. Attorneys acting on behalf of Yves Saint Laurent responded: &quot;Red outsoles are a commonly used ornamental design feature in footwear, dating as far back as the red shoes worn by King Louis XIV in the 1600s and the ruby red shoes that carried Dorothy home in The Wizard of Oz.&quot; On 10 August, at the preliminary hearing in New York, Judge Victor Marrero took such flamboyancy one step further, denying the injunction and comparing the case to a hypothetical one in which Picasso sued Monet for using the colour blue. Louboutin's lawyers have said that they will keep fighting.</p><p>8. Going Gaga</p><p>Lady Gaga took to the Paris catwalk for her friend and collaborator Nicola Formichetti's debut show for Thierry Mugler on 3 March and the media went into overdrive. It's been a busy year for Formichetti elsewhere too. Since Jil Sander's departure from Uniqlo (her final collection is in store now), he has been appointed fashion director of the Japanese high-street giant's Innovation Project while Naoki Takisawa, formerly of Issey Miyake, is its new design director. Formichetti also curated a series of T-shirts for Uniqlo – designed by Gaga again, Alber Elbaz, Karl Lagerfeld and more – to raise money for those affected by the earthquake in Japan.</p><p>9. High fliers</p><p>On 17 June, Prada floated on the Hong Kong stock exchange. Any interest was generated not least because it demanded full disclosure from the business, which hitherto had the luxury of keeping any figures to itself. And so it emerged that Miuccia Prada and her husband and Prada Group CEO Patrizio Bertelli earned €10m and €9.7m the previous year respectively, making them among the most highly paid figures in fashion.</p><p>10. Alexander the great</p><p>Savage Beauty – an Alexander McQueen retrospective – opened at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York on 4 May and broke all attendance levels. The show was extended for a week in August to accommodate as many visitors as possible. McQueen's contemporary, Hussein Chalayan, was also honoured with an exhibition, this time at Paris's Les Arts Decoratifs – Mode et Textile that opened at the beginning of July.</p><p>11. Back to school</p><p>In September, the £200m Central Saint Martins redevelopment opened its doors at Granary Square, King's Cross. For the first time in the college's history, students from the fine art, graphics, fashion, drama and performance departments gathered under one enormous roof – there's a massive 10 acres of floor space. The most famous fashion college in the world now has a working environment to match.</p><p>12. Cool Britannia</p><p>Tom Ford now thinks London Fashion Week is high-profile enough to be home to his twice-yearly women's ready-to-wear show – he unveiled his summer collection in the British fashion capital in September. If ever there was a year when this all-too-often beleaguered event exceeded all expectations then 2011 was surely it. Unprecedented attendance levels, not to mention talent that, like Meadham Kirchhoff's, more than lives up to the hype that surrounds it notwithstanding , Italy's Camera Nazionale della Moda has fixed its autumn 2012 collection dates in direct conflict with those of the British collections. The Huffington Post described this turn of events as &quot;The Battle of the Catwalks&quot; as, despite increased pressure from all sides, Milan's designer superpowers have refused so far to budge.</p><p>13. Viva Versace</p><p>There's nothing like a well-judged collaboration and 2011 has seen its fair share. Top of the list must be Versace for H&amp;M, a baroque extravaganza that went on sale on 18 November – La Versace went so far as to make a personal appearance at the chain's Regent Street store. The collection sold out in a matter of days and was so successful there's more to come next year. Christopher Kane's line for J Brand, which launched in November, was an equally impressive coup, featuring candy coloured denim with fashionably frayed edges, courtesy of British fashion's designer du jour. Also of note this year has been Opening Ceremony's link-ups with MM6, Rodarte, Chloe Sevigny, Pendleton and more, and M.A.C's with Cindy Sherman, Gareth Pugh and Miss Piggy. Soon to come is the make-up brand's Daphne Guinness collection. Ms Guinness also launched a fragrance – named Daphne – with Comme des Garçons in September.</p><p>14. Bear necessities</p><p>Whoever said the fashion industry has no heart? In November, some of this world's main protagonists gave Pudsey Bear a makeover. Erdem, Louis Vuitton, Topshop, Giles Deacon, Pringle, Mulberry and Liberty were just some of the names who took part and bears were auctioned online to raise money for Children in Need. Vuitton's Pudsey (designed by Kim Jones, named Louis Vuitton's menswear director in March) went for a massive £35,600, putting any competition, however well-intentioned, into the shade.</p><p>15. Great British brand</p><p>Never a brand to miss a trick as far as digital innovation is concerned, at London Fashion Week in September Burberry gave the world its first ever &quot;tweetwalk&quot; – every exit appeared on Twitter moments before it made it on to the catwalk proper. Also of note, several key looks in the collection went on sale online immediately after they were shown – normally even the most fashion obsessed consumer would have to wait a good six months to buy them. More generally, and despite global recession, this much-loved British label continued to post figures that are surely the envy of its esteemed competitors the world over.</p><p>Fashion Awards</p><p>The 2011 British Fashion Awards took place on 28 November at the Savoy Hotel. And the winners were...</p><p>Designer of the Year: Sarah Burton for Alexander McQueen</p><p>Isabella Blow Award for Fashion Creator: Sam Gainsbury</p><p>New Establishment Award: Christopher Kane</p><p>Red Carpet Award: Stella McCartney</p><p>Designer Brand: Victoria Beckham</p><p>Menswear Designer: Kim Jones</p><p>Accessory Designer: Charlotte Olympia</p><p>Outstanding Achievement Award: Paul Smith</p><p>Model of the Year: Stella Tennant</p><p>British Style Award (voted for by the British public): Alexa Chung</p><p>The contribution to fashion of stylist and editor-in-chief of LOVE magazine, Katie Grand, was acknowledged when, on 27 October, she received the Wall Street Journal Fashion Innovator Award. Grand was in elevated company. Ai Weiwei (art), Bjarke Ingels (architecture), Steve Ells (food), Elon Musk (technology), Joris Laarman (design) and The Giving Pledge (philanthropy) were among those also awarded gongs by the paper.</p><p>The Way We Wore</p><p>Looks we loved...</p><p>Block colour (best at Jil Sander). Neon (Miu Miu and Christopher Kane). Pleats (that Whistles skirt). Androgyny (everywhere from Stella McCartney to Chanel and all over the high street too). Fetish (leather leggings and Louis Vuitton latex and handcuffs). Theyskens Theory (what's not to want?). Baseball jackets (Isabel Marant's spawned a million imitations). Polka dots (so Rive Gauche). Duffel coats (think Paddington Bear). Flats (finally running is fashionable). Glitter shoes (Dorothy lives and breathes). Knee boots (in leather, rubber, wedge, spike or flat-heeled). Practical bags (from the Céline cabas to the Cambridge Company's satchels).</p><p>And weren't so sure about...</p><p>Victoriana (a nice idea but so last century). Gap flares (we tried – and failed). Fruit prints (Prada's bananas were a timely ruse but grapefruits took things a step too far). Designer star prints (over before they had even started so easy were they for the high street to emulate). Navajo (the meaningless appropriation of faraway styles is less than desirable).</p><p>Launches to remember...</p><p>Prada costume jewellery (so true to the first lady of fashion's personal style). Make-up ranges from Tom Ford and Dolce &amp; Gabbana (what could be more glamorous?). No. 19 Poudre (a lovely new interpretation) of the original scent. Chanel Peridot (the green/gold nail colour of the year). Jonathan Saunders menswear (chic but not cheap). Current Elliott menswear (now boys can wear the most beautifully worn denim too). Eres London (the finest swimwear in the world now has its own London home).</p><p>And forget...</p><p>Lanvin childrenswear (although we hate to say it, cuteness can go too far). Lip transfers (the last word in over-embellishment). Fe jeans (sitting on silicone implants seemed like a good idea at the time but then it didn't).</p><p>And so farewell...</p><p>Elizabeth Taylor, Loulou de la Falaise, François Lesage and Evelyn Lauder.</p><p>Now this visionary is being touted as the new chairman of the British Fashion Council. If confirmed, Massenet, 47, will take over from businessman Harold Tillman, formerly of Jaeger and Aquascutum, who has raised the profile of the body – and of its biannual shows in the capital – to an international level.</p><p>Massenet's portfolio boasts not only the site that made her rich and famous, but two other websites, The Outnet, where customers can buy past-season designer clothing at a discount, and Mr Porter, an upmarket menswear e-boutique, as well as a print and online magazine. Massenet – who remains Net-a-Porter's executive chairman – sold her founding stake in the company in 2010 to the Swiss luxury goods group Richemont for a reported £50m. Did we mention that she's terribly glamorous, too?</p><p>Born in 1965 to a Californian journalist and a British model, she moved between Paris, LA and Madrid as a child, before settling in the US with her father. &quot;I was surrounded by some very wealthy people,&quot; she told Vogue in 2010. &quot;I realised at a certain point that if I was going to have the sort of life I fantasised about, I needed to get my act together. No one was going to do it for me.&quot; Before establishing Net-a-Porter, she worked as a fashion journalist for W, Women's Wear Daily and Tatler, and as an assistant to the late Isabella Blow at The Sunday Times.</p><p>Her rumoured arrival as head of the BFC is telling. Massenet is forward-thinking and professionally astute. She is also an international figure, whose nous and experience mean she is taken seriously for all she has achieved and pioneered in the past 12 years.</p><p>Gone are the days when London Fashion Week was a commercial backwater, more full of enfants terribles than entrepreneurs. These days, designers such as Christopher Kane, Jonathan Saunders and JW Anderson head up young talents who deliver both the goods and the city's signature dash of cool, while international powerhouse Burberry moved its show back to London from Milan as part of Fashion Week's 25th anniversary celebrations in 2009.</p><p>So, if Massenet takes the helm at the BFC, the industry can expect London, and British fashion, to be even more loud and proud. Even if we are really rather jealous of her.</p><p>Norsa has a duty to his employer, and its famous clients, to make sure its shops look as beautiful as the well-crafted clothes, shoes and leather goods that they sell. Ferragamo, shoemaker to the stars, counted Marilyn Monroe, Audrey Hepburn and Greta Garbo among its fans and has just hired British supermodel Kate Moss as its &quot;face&quot; for this autumn.</p><p>Norsa is visiting the Old Bond Street store – which has been home to Salvatore Ferragamo for 74 years — after paying what is thought to be the UK's top rent, estimated to be £1000 per square foot for the most important part of the shop, to renegotiate a bigger store and longer lease. No wonder he wants it to look its best.&quot;London is very important to us. It is growing very fast and we have shoppers from all over the world who come here.&quot;</p><p>Tanned, smiling and impeccably dressed in Ferragamo, Norsa is clearly at home on the shop floor in spite of years in the board room of companies including Sergio Tacchini and Valentino. As he justifies the top rent Ferragamo is paying, he is surveying his emporium of Italian style – from the new lights to the menswear floor.</p><p>&quot;We have made the store 60 per cent bigger. London's rent is going up, of course, but it is fair. We were able to take a long view and invest in the store. Bond Street will be here forever and we want to make sure we keep this beautiful store,&quot; he says.</p><p>But it isn't just Bond Street that has had a makeover. Its other London spot — Sloane Street will double its floor space this year over three floors — to give more space for the £350 Vara bow heels or the £2300 python skin handbag.</p><p>London is just one of Ferragamo's important global &quot;flagship&quot; cities. Three new stores are planned for China this year to add to its 320-plus outlets. The luxury goods obsession with giant, shiny new stores to showcase growing collections is now a global phenomenon with identikit Prada or Louis Vuitton stores from Sloane Street to Sao Paulo. And now Ferragamo's expansion is being closely watched by investors after its listing in Milan just over a year ago.</p><p>Norsa, having spent most of his career at family-owned companies in Italy, joined Ferragamo in 2006 — the first non-family chief executive. He took over from Ferruccio Ferragamo, the eldest son of Salvatore, who is now chairman. It was the first step in modernising the group. The family shareholding is complex. Salvatore Ferragamo had six children and Ferruccio also has six; there are a total of twenty-three grandchildren.</p><p>The family decided to sell a 25 per cent stake — to raise money for expansion and free up capital for some of the family. And for Norsa &quot;working for a listed company is a nice challenge.&quot;</p><p>At the time of deciding to go public, the markets ran wild with rumours that the family were looking at following fellow Italian fashion brand Prada to Hong Kong. But Norsa says: &quot;Italy is part of our DNA. You can get all the advantages that you can get anywhere. And being listed in Italy doesn't mean we do not have investors from elsewhere. We have many overseas investors.&quot; Indeed Peter Woo, a Honk Kong-based businessman who owns a stake in Ferragamo, became a board member.</p><p>Making sure the company is synonymous with Italy means every single item — bar the Swiss-made watch parts — is made in that country.</p><p>When in the Nineties, clothing manufacturers started moving east for cheaper labour, luxury brands including Prada and Burberry followed the trend with swathes of the business being farmed off to factories in Turkey, Thailand and China. But unlike most of its peers Ferragamo stayed put. &quot;It is a commitment but it is something we truly believe in.&quot;</p><p>The decision by some brands to move production from their home countries is still having repercussions today with a renewed consumer backlash at some brands.</p><p>Norsa has seen first-hand the factories that England used to be proud of. &quot;I have visited these factories in Scotland and in England. Now people recognise the value of knowing where something is made. It is now very important for the shopper to know where and how it is made.&quot; The growth of luxury brands in the Chinese market has been fuelled by a desire to buy something which is &quot;made in Europe&quot;.</p><p>Ferragamo is not quite as old as French brands Louis Vuitton or the Hermès but it certainly has a vivid archive. Having started life as a shoemaker in a small room in Florence in 1927, it now has a market capitalisation of £2.6bn, selling everything from leather goods and watches to perfumes and ready-to-wear for men and women. It is one of the best known classic luxury brands — known for comfort and style.</p><p>The history is important but it is Norsa's job to make sure his creative director — Massimiliano Giornetti — keeps the brand relevant.</p><p>&quot;We have been very good at keeping the heritage through to the present. But through events, marketing, social media and digital we have to make sure we stay in touch with our customers. People want to be in touch with the brand.&quot;</p><p>The strategy has paid off so far. Last year revenues were up 26 per cent to €986.5m (£629m) and will update the market with its first half results for 2012, this month.</p><p>Ferragamo's rich Italian history might be in vogue with consumers in Asia, but the region's growth spurt could be losing steam. Fears of a Chinese economic slowdown are causing shares in luxury goods brands to fall and the likes of Hugo Boss and Burberry have reported slower growth in the region.</p><p>But Norsa is sure growth will continue. &quot;We are still seeing significant growth. Of course there are concerns on the future but … reassuringly we have seen Chinese consumer confidence is still strong,&quot; says Norsa. &quot;And there are still so many Chinese consumers who are only just making their very first step into luxury.&quot;</p><p>China's luxury shoppers join Brazilians, Arabs and Russians in Bond Street and Norsa is reeling off the nationalities which visit his London stores. &quot;Here in London we have something very unusual. Nigerians are in our top three.</p><p>&quot;We have to make sure we have every size available for the different types of people who shop with us. And now we know exactly when Ramadan, Chinese New Year and Russia's Orthodox celebrations are.&quot;</p><p>With Bond Street a hot spot for the travelling global wealthy, Norsa's shopkeeping nous is paying off.</p><p>According to website MyVoucherCodes.co.uk, a quarter of those with a secret stash were keeping the money aside because they were worried their partner would try to spend it.</p><p>Having an emergency cash reserve may seem like a good idea, but hiding it from your partner is not the recipe for a loving relationship. Andrew Swallow, an adviser with Swallow Financial Planning in Kensington, London, believes that if you are keeping money secret from a partner you need to assess what kind of relationship you are in. &quot;A couple who are in it for the long-term will have shared goals, such as buying a home together, which require honesty,&quot; he said.</p><p>&quot;You need to be honest with yourself and your partner. If you are in a couple but you know your relationship is not going to last the distance, then keep your finances separate. But if you are with someone, and know the relationship is going somewhere, then you are best off having a talk sooner rather than later.&quot;</p><p>Shared financial goals can only benefit a relationship, he believes. Once you've established you are in a committed relationship, then the most romantic thing you can do is pay a trip to the solicitor – particularly if you don't intend to get married.</p><p>&quot;If you are buying any substantial asset together such as a house, and you are not married, then the brutal truth is that you both need to make a will,&quot; says Swallow. &quot;If your partner dies and you are not married, and you have no will, then you could find yourself in a financial mess, your partner's family could have a claim on the property and you could be forced to sell to pay inheritance tax.&quot;</p><p>If you are not married and your partner dies, then you may have to pay inheritance tax, a tax of 40 per cent on a property worth £325,000 or more. Significantly, you don't benefit from the couple's IHT allowance, which allows you to own a property worth up to £650,000.</p><p>Of course, it's not about simply being married. You may have substantial assets and/or you've been in a previous relationship in which you had children. In this case a will is necessary as well as a pre-nuptial agreement – a legal document which sets out who gets what if you split up. &quot;Pre-nups are not yet recognised in law but courts will take them into account. Of course they are not cheap to draw up, so you need to see a specialist family solicitor,&quot; adds Swallow.</p><p>Kate Marsden, an adviser with Very Nice Advice in Cookham, Berkshire, points out that there are other advantages to being married or in a civil partnership. Couples who are married, or civil partners, can usually transfer assets to each other without having to pay any capital gains tax. This is set at 28 per cent of any asset worth over £10,600.</p><p>&quot;For example, Peter, who is a higher rate taxpayer, could transfer a whole bunch of dividend-paying shares to Paul, who is a basic-rate taxpayer. That will minimise the tax payable on the dividends. Those in marital difficulties should also be aware that if they separate from their spouse, they can still transfer assets between themselves and their partner in that same tax year, without a capital gains tax liability.&quot;</p><p>&quot;That means if you stop living together early in the tax year, you have a good few months to transfer assets such as second homes, or shares, between yourselves as you work out a financial settlement.&quot;</p><p>And on that topic, she says: &quot;Remember that wills are not rendered null and void on divorce because your ex will be, so to speak, deleted from it. The rest will remain valid. It's worth reviewing.&quot;</p><p>What if you don't want to get married, but still want the financial benefits of being in a couple? Andrew Swallow says an unmarried couple can maximise their finances by setting up a company and paying themselves a salary from it but they would only really benefit if one of them was self employed. &quot;If you are both self-employed and one of you earns more than the other, you can set up a company, in which you are both partners, and can combine your tax allowances. You need to get expert advice but setting up the company is relatively easy.&quot;</p><p>Combining finances on a big scale, such as buying a property or setting up a company together is all very well, but many couples find the financial nitty-gritty of life, such as paying bills, or even deciding who should pay them, may turn out to be a financial flashpoint.</p><p>Kim Stephenson, a psychologist and author of Taming the Pound, says all couples are unique and need to find a financial framework that works for them.</p><p>He explains: &quot;If you are both independent, you may need to have separate finances, but for the relationship to work, and to make sure the gas bill gets paid, then you need to either split things down the middle or divvy up who pays what between you and stick to it.&quot;</p><p>For most people, he says, having a joint account for the major bills into which they both pay most of their money, with individual accounts that allow individual &quot;pocket money&quot;, works the best. &quot;You need to sit down and decide are toys for the baby, dry cleaning bills, gadgets for the car, basic clothing, joint expenses or individual ones. Are all clothes individual expenses, or only really impractical ones.</p><p>&quot;You can buy presents for one another out of 'your own' money, but what about treats for both of you? Is a luxury evening out a treat from one of you to the other, or a joint expense? If it is a joint expense, who is responsible for making up the shortfall if you can't pay the mortgage or the joint credit card for essential shopping this month?&quot;</p><p>So, is that XBox Kinnect (or Burberry handbag) a luxury – or a household expense you just can't do without?</p><p>Amanda Whyte is a businesswoman and journalist from London and married to Ian, a management consultant. They have two children. She and her husband like to keep things separate. &quot;We don't have a joint account and we keep our finances as separate as possible. We have talked about [a joint account] but never got round to it.&quot;</p><p>Amanda believes that as long as enough money is coming in to cover the bills, their system works perfectly. &quot;Ian pays the mortgage and the bills. I work three days a week for IPC Media and the childcare comes out of my salary. I also buy most of the stuff for the kids, pay into my pension, buy my own clothes and I finance my own business. We aren't too badly off, but we don't have savings – apart from our pensions. We both agree that any extra money should be spent on fun things. In fact we've just bought a camper van.&quot;</p>Her marriage is wonderful, she&#039;s given up alcohol and from tomorrow she&#039;s hosting the nightly &#039;Strictly&#039; spin-off show &#039;It Takes Two&#039;<p>&quot;Discontinuing the association with her is also good PR for Nivea because it allows them to reiterate the values that they don't feel she aspires to,&quot; says Claire Beale, editor of Campaign. &quot;Celebrity endorsements give brands an instant value to tap into and if you associate yourself with a big personality you'll instantly gain credibility with all the people that love that celebrity. The problem is celebrities often don't behave themselves.&quot;</p><p>While Rihanna's firing might seem somewhat unwarranted, there are plenty of other celebrities who have given good reason to be dismissed. Both Wrigley and the Milk Processor Education Program (that's the &quot;Got Milk?&quot; campaign to you) quite rightly terminated contracts with R&amp;B performer Chris Brown after he pleaded guilty to assaulting his ex-girlfriend (yep, Rihanna).</p><p>Fashion labels such as Chanel and Burberry quickly deserted Kate Moss after she was caught on camera allegedly snorting cocaine (although the entire industry has since done a U-turn after realising the supermodel is far too valuable to blacklist). Another star who must regret allegedly dabbling in drugs is Michael Phelps, who had a lucrative deal as the face of Kellogg's (despite everyone knowing that the swimmer chows down fried egg sandwiches, omelettes, French toast and pancakes for breakfast, not a sad little bowl of Corn Flakes). After pictures surfaced of the Olympian apparently puffing on a bong, the two soon parted ways.</p><p>Infidelity doesn't go down well with big business either. Wayne Rooney was dumped by Coca-Cola and Tiger beer after being caught cheating on a pregnant Coleen, while Tiger Woods' extra-marital escapades cost him not only his wife but deals with Gatorade, AT&amp;T, Accenture and Gillette worth millions (although probably not quite as much as the divorce settlement).</p><p>And while cheating on partners is not appreciated by sponsors, celebrities should remember not to cheat on the product either. Just last month Brazilian footballer Ronaldinho had his sponsorship deal with Coca-Cola revoked after he turned up at a press conference sipping on a Pepsi. A can of fizzy drink is usually about 60 pence; this one cost £500,000.</p><p>However, never to the extent of this year.</p><p>As things stand the Indy's 10 is showing a positive return of 33 per cent. Nine out of 10 of our picks are in the black, with one (Providence Resources) having more than doubled in value.</p><p>By contrast, the FTSE 100 has basically been treading water. Having finished 2011 at 5,572.28, the index got off to a flyer, but has recently eased back and stood at 5,723.67 at the close of trading on Thursday, producing a positive return of 2.7 per cent.</p><p>How did we do it? Well, there was more than a bit of gambler's luck in there. When compiling the 10 I always like to include at least one (and sometimes more) really risky tips which have the potential for a big pay-off. Otherwise why bother?</p><p>This year's was Providence. The Aim-listed oil and gas explorer is focused on offshore Ireland, and began drilling the first of a series of test wells in November to determine whether its Barryroe field, situated in the North Celtic Sea Basin, had commercial quantities of oil.</p><p>The share price at the time suggested it didn't. That all changed last month when the company revealed it had discovered the first commercially viable well. A placing of new stock did little to dispel the froth making it the biggest winner in the 10 by some way.</p><p>Providence was a blatant gamble – there are a myriad of oil explorers listed in London and picking a winner is very much a question of luck. If one of them fails to strike black gold they can easily collapse in value.</p><p>However, there were other shares which we selected on the basis of sound financial logic, including two picked from a sector that on the face of it shouldn't make a happy hunting ground: retailers.</p><p>Burberry has gone global and the market has woken up to the potential of its overseas outlets. Meanwhile JD Sports Fashion just looked absurdly cheap based on its earnings multiple. Other investors have taken note and the shares have surged.</p><p>The same is true of William Hill, even after the hit the bookie took from the Chancellor's imposition of a new gaming machine duty at a swingeing 20 per cent. Hills remains a solid earner with a good yield.</p><p>Oil services group Amec has been riding the wave of the oil industry's capital expenditure cycle (very much on the upswing) while Rolls-Royce is a hardy perennial which should hold a place in almost any sensible portfolio.</p><p>Meanwhile Intermediate Capital, a provider of mezzanine finance, a type of debt that sits between bank lending and equity, was selected because we felt it would profit from the withdrawal of banks from this sector of the market. It has done and should continue to do so.</p><p>Moneysupermarket's obnoxious new ads look to be spurring a fightback against Comparethemarket.com's even more obnoxious meerkats (whose latest outing suggests the hairs are starting to fall out), which brings us to Lloyds Banking Group.</p><p>This was perhaps the most hotly debated of the selections, not least because of its uncertainties at the top (the chief executive took an unscheduled break because of a mystery illness that stopped him from sleeping) and its government bailout. But like JD the shares just looked to have fallen to a ridiculously low level, although they remain a risky proposition.</p><p>Our only loser was African Barrick Gold, deliberately chosen as a hedge against the roof falling in (exposure to gold can be a good idea if markets take a turn for the worse). There's still room for a recovery, however.</p><p>In the meantime our guest tipster, in the form of my four-year-old son, also turned a profit of 17 per cent with his five (Ladbrokes, Unilever, Aga Rangemaster, International Power and ITV) which he found with the aid of a pin and the Indy's share listings. So perhaps we shouldn't get too above ourselves.</p><p>Putting together the selections of our eight professionals (they each picked one share each to follow) also produced a positive return of 13 per cent. Their shares were Telecity, Salamander Energy, GlaxoSmithKline, Imperial Tobacco, Shell, Corero Network Security and Burberry (twice).</p><p>How was it that the FTSE 100 proved so easy to beat? The problem with the blue chip index is that it is dominated by a handful of truly enormous companies. They include oil giants (BP and Shell) the drugs company GlaxoSmithKline, several huge mining companies with rather low name recognition, and HSBC, the bank. You only need for a couple of those to perform poorly (and these mega-caps have performed like big lumbering beasts of late) for the index to get dragged down.</p><p>“It will have been almost five years and has been anunbelievable experience.  I have seen the industry grow and develop. Mydream has always been to help new talent, and enable them to succeed.&quot;</p><p>Massenet, whose ventures have changed the internet andluxury retail landscape globally, is an interesting choice to inherit the titlein a time when fashion is becoming more global day by day. &quot;I know that Iam inheriting this position with the British Fashion Industry in the best shapeof its life,&quot; she said. &quot;Maintaining and growing that reputation inGreat Britain and around the world is a responsibility that I take veryseriously.&quot;</p><p>Someone who will surely appreciate these efforts isHaizhen Wang, who last night was awarded this year's Fashion Fringe award.Chosen by the initiative's founder Colin McDowell and guest chair Burberry headChristopher Bailey, Wang showed a collection inspired by historical Japanesearmour and the work of Spanish architect Santiago Calatrava. This manifested insculptural, voluminous designs of draped and pleated leather and wool.Accessorized with untreated wooden and leather block heeled sandals and blackwooden bird like armour headpieces. </p><p>Bailey said his choice was influenced by Wang's&quot;work and approach, and well-rounded nature. He had a sense of vision ofhow he might build a brand. It was a tough decision, the three finalists allhad strong points of view and huge potential. Now I want Wang to find his voiceand slowly grow a business.&quot; While Bailey said that the experience was aprivilege, McDowell acknowledged how lucky the finalists were too.&quot;Christopher devoted more time to the three finalists than any otherchair. I always felt he was just a phone call away if we needed him and thatgave us confidence.&quot;</p><p>For his part Wang felt that Bailey was aninspirational mentor. &quot;He's the best example of how to support creativitywith commercial success,&quot; said the winner who believes his experience as adesigner for Max Mara and All Saints stood him in good stead. &quot;My nextstep is to find more stockists and start work on the next collection,” addedWang, who as winner will receive support worth £100,000 and show at LondonFashion Week in February.</p><p>The Paris-based family-controlled brand saw double-digit increases in sales and profits across most markets in the first six months of the year. First-half sales hit €1.6bn (£1.3bn), up 22 per cent.</p><p>Despite some brands, including Burberry and Hugo Boss, succumbing to a slowdown in sales growth in Asia, Hermès reported a 25 per cent rise in sales in China, Singapore and Hong Kong. But Europe was still strong for the group, with France up 10 per cent and the rest of Europe up 21 per cent. Japan was its weakest market, with sales growth of 3 per cent.</p><p>Hermès, famed for its handbags and scarves, predicted annual sales growth of &quot;around 12 per cent&quot; for the year, a revision up from the 10 per cent it predicted last month. It beat analyst's forecasts for the half-year and said operating profit climbed 22.2 per cent to €510.9m, up from €418.1m a year ago. Net profit rose 15 per cent to €335.1m.</p><p>Celebrating its 10th anniversary on the LSE, Burberry's shares have eased following a slowdown in sales growth after several years of outperformance that has turned it into a leading fashion house. But the stock was back on the up, gaining 57p to 1,289p. </p><p>Hermès, famed for its silk scarves, said sales growth, although slowing, had been propped up by better-than-expected revenues in Asia. </p><p>Year-on-year sales growth was 13.4 per cent in its second financial quarter, down from 17.6 per cent in the first quarter. Revenues in Asia, its biggest market, rose 16.2 per cent.</p><p>Maybelline's lipsticks have a creamy consistency, thanks to the honey nectar. If you're not really a red-hot kinda girl, there are 23 other shades to choose from.</p><p>£7.19, Maybelline, available nationwide</p><p>2. Pocket Pen</p><p>This little wand gives you the option of a matte finish with the much-loved 'benetint' colour, or a shiny pout with the clear gloss.</p><p>£15.50, Benefit, </p><p>3. Super-saturated high gloss lip colour</p><p>Apply this chubby pencil all over the lips to leave a lustrous red hue. Blot with tissue for a more subtle, day-time shade.</p><p>£14, Urban Decay, </p><p>4. Lip cover in No 19 Brick Red</p><p>If a pillar-box shade scares, take baby steps towards a rouge pout with this lightweight but intensely pigmented lipstick.</p><p>£22.50, Burberry, </p><p>5. Pretty Amazing lip colour in Upper Class Red</p><p>Virgin Atlantic's signature colour has been immortalised in make-up. The long-lasting lacquer is currently only available at the airline's Clubhouse Spas, but will be stocked by Bare Minerals later in the year.</p><p>£15, Bare Minerals, </p><p>6. Lipstick in Tulip</p><p>Containing lauroyl lysine which is impervious to water and oil, you're guaranteed a long-lasting colour.</p><p>£25, Chantecaille, </p><p>Like a duck floating serenely but paddling frantically beneath the surface, so the shows starting today in London are slick operations for the audience front-of-house but all frenetic activity behind the scenes.</p><p>London Fashion Week, which was launched last night by Livia Firth in conjunction with the British Film Institute, will host 62 catwalk shows over the next five days, including ones from the likes of Burberry, Vivienne Westwood and milliner Philip Treacy who makes a return to the schedule this season. More than 5,000 visitors are expected to pass through the Somerset House venue.</p><p>Fashion shows are extremely costly endeavours, often running up bills in the hundreds of thousands, thanks to high-spec lighting rigs, offbeat and exclusive venues, and of course, the famous faces not only on the runway but also in the front row.</p><p>&quot;It can cost from about £5,000 for a 'showentation',&quot; says Clarke, director of Inca productions who is working alongside the Fashion Fringe mentoring programme this season to help three fledgling designers stage their own collections. &quot;Some of the big Paris shows cost literally millions.&quot;</p><p>For a young name showing for the first time, London Fashion Week is a daunting prospect. Fashion Fringe, established in 2003 by fashion journalist Colin McDowell, aims to set nascent talents on the road to superstardom, offering mentoring and advice, and a slot on the official London Fashion Week schedule for the winner.</p><p>That winner will be selected on Tuesday night at a show featuring collections from this year's three finalists, Chinese-born Haizhen Wang, Teija Eilola from Finland and Londoner Vita Gottlieb. Previous winners include Erdem Moraglioglu, nominated for British Designer of the Year in 2009, whose designs have been worn by the likes of Samantha Cameron and Corrie Nielsen, whose dramatic and gothic pieces have won critical acclaim.</p><p>With only weeks before the shows kick off, the three finalists attend a meeting with Charlotte Clarke to learn how best they might realise their visions for the catwalk. Daunted but eager, they listen and take notes, to learn how to put together the biggest moment of their lives so far.</p><p>&quot;I've never even been to a fashion show before so it's a scary and awe-inspiring concept that the first will be my own,&quot; says Gottlieb, 36, a textile designer who set up her own label earlier this year. &quot;To get a full collection and on-schedule catwalk show together is a monumental challenge,&quot; adds Wang, 37, previously a pattern cutter for high street chain All Saints and Italian luxury label MaxMara, and now setting up on his own.</p><p>Clarke talks them through the parameters of the space: the main Fashion Week marquee at Somerset House. The capacity is 500; the catwalk is 30 metres long and three metres wide.</p><p>&quot;We've got four hours on-site,&quot; Clarke says, as the designers scribble down the details. &quot;The models will turn up three hours before the show. We'll send them down the runway every 11 or 12 seconds, and it takes 24 seconds to get to the end of it with a basic walk. If you want an intro for your music, don't make it longer than 20 seconds. Journalists see a lot of shows and they're here to look at your clothes, so don't go too far down the theatrical route.&quot;</p><p>With the London shows known increasingly for their entrepreneurial spirit, as opposed to their former reputation for producing enfant terribles with great creative talent but little commercial clout, schemes like Fashion Fringe are important for young designers who wish to go it alone. The traditional industry route of working as part of the design team for a larger house is now only one option among many. With graduate collections increasingly picked up by buyers, featured on blogs and Twitter, and shot by magazines, you can be a professional by the age of 23.</p><p>Christopher Kane, nominated in the Designer of the Year category for the 2012 British Fashion Awards and showing on Monday, is still only 30.</p><p>&quot;There has to be a concerted investment of expertise,&quot; says Colin McDowell, &quot;because we are dealing with young creative people who are, by the very nature of what they do, vulnerable to all kinds of forces.&quot;</p><p>From the practicalities – casting models, hair and make-up tests – to the professional touches, such as providing a drinks reception and being available for interviews after the show, the candidates must learn not only how to become a fashion designer and but also how to embody their brand.</p><p>For now though, their efforts will be concentrated on the minutiae of their shows in three days' time, when the lights go up not only on their clothes but also on their futures.</p><p>Like a duck floating serenely but paddling frantically beneath the surface, so the shows starting today in London are slick operations for the audience front-of-house but all frenetic activity behind the scenes.</p><p>London Fashion Week, which was launched last night by Livia Firth in conjunction with the British Film Institute, will host 62 catwalk shows over the next five days, including ones from the likes of Burberry, Vivienne Westwood and milliner Philip Treacy who makes a return to the schedule this season. More than 5,000 visitors are expected to pass through the Somerset House venue.</p><p>Fashion shows are extravagant endeavours, often running up bills in the hundreds of thousands, thanks to high-spec lighting rigs, offbeat and exclusive venues, and of course, the famous faces not only on the runway but also in the front row.</p><p>&quot;It can cost from about £5,000 for a 'showentation',&quot; says Clarke, director of Inca productions who is working alongside the Fashion Fringe mentoring programme this season to help three fledgling designers stage their own collections. &quot;Some of the big Paris shows cost literally millions.&quot;</p><p>For a young name showing for the first time, London Fashion Week is a daunting prospect. Fashion Fringe, established in 2003 by the fashion journalist Colin McDowell, aims to set nascent talents on the road to superstardom, offering mentoring and advice, and a slot on the official London Fashion Week schedule for the winner.</p><p>That winner will be selected on Tuesday night at a show featuring collections from this year's three finalists: Chinese-born Haizhen Wang, Teija Eilola from Finland and Londoner Vita Gottlieb. Previous winners include Erdem Moralioglu, nominated for British Designer of the Year in 2009, whose designs have been worn by the likes of Samantha Cameron and Corrie Nielsen, and whose dramatic and gothic pieces have won critical acclaim.</p><p>With only weeks before the shows kick off, the three finalists attend a meeting with Charlotte Clarke to learn how best they might realise their visions for the catwalk. Daunted but eager, they listen and take notes, to learn how to put together the biggest moment of their lives so far.</p><p>&quot;I've never even been to a fashion show before so it's a scary and awe-inspiring concept that the first will be my own,&quot; says Gottlieb, 36, a textile designer who set up her own label earlier this year. &quot;To get a full collection and on-schedule catwalk show together is a monumental challenge,&quot; adds Wang, 37, previously a pattern-cutter for the high street chain All Saints and Italian luxury label MaxMara, and now setting up on his own.</p><p>Clarke talks them through the parameters of the space: the main Fashion Week marquee at Somerset House. The capacity is 500; the catwalk is 30 metres long and three metres wide.</p><p>&quot;We've got four hours on-site,&quot; Clarke says, as the designers scribble down the details. &quot;The models will turn up three hours before the show. We'll send them down the runway every 11 or 12 seconds, and it takes 24 seconds to get to the end of it with a basic walk. If you want an intro for your music, don't make it longer than 20 seconds. Journalists see a lot of shows and they're here to look at your clothes, so don't go too far down the theatrical route.&quot;</p><p>With the London shows known increasingly for entrepreneurial spirit, as opposed to their former reputation for producing enfant terribles with great creative talent but little commercial clout, schemes such as Fashion Fringe are important for young designers who wish to go it alone.</p><p>&quot;There has to be a concerted investment of expertise,&quot; says Colin McDowell, &quot;because we are dealing with young creative people who are, by the very nature of what they do, vulnerable to all kinds of forces.&quot;</p><p>From the practicalities – casting models, hair and make-up tests – to the professional touches, such as providing a drinks reception and being available for interviews after the show, the candidates must learn not only how to become a fashion designer and but also how to embody their brand.</p><p>For now though, their efforts will be concentrated on the minutiae of their shows in three days' time, when the lights go up not only on their clothes but also on their futures.</p><p>So when faithful clients and label loyalists attend the international collections, it's a chance for them to plump for pieces straight from the catwalk and pre-order their favourites, which often won't arrive in stores for another six months. A handy way to stay on top of the trends and ensure you're snapping up the season's must-haves before they sell out – and undoubtedly an insider perk of the job.</p><p>But it's also the shopping model behind a new capsule collection of clothing launching on the e-boutique Net-a-Porter. From Wednesday, McQ, the second line from Alexander McQueen, will offer its autumn 2012 collection on the site for exclusive pre-ordering for a week only. Pieces will then arrive in as soon as two months after the order has been placed, right at the very beginning of the new-season drops.</p><p>&quot;Pre-order is a service that we have offered our customers in the past for truly exceptional collections,&quot; explains Net-a-Porter's buying director, Holli Rogers. &quot;The first time was in 2007, when we collaborated with Roland Mouret on the relaunch of his brand. This was the first time customers could pre-order directly from the catwalk, anywhere.&quot;</p><p>The McQ collection in question was a highlight of London Fashion Week last February, as models in strictly tailored but rustic wool coats and delicate but structured A-line dresses trod a catwalk strewn with crisp autumnal leaves. And the reinvigoration of the brand, as well as its return to the capital's schedule, has been met with enthusiasm and excitement among the industry's cognoscenti.</p><p>&quot;As soon as we saw the McQ runway show, we knew our customers would love the collection as much as we did,&quot; Holli Rogers continues. &quot;McQ wasn't originally planning to sell the collection, so it's wonderful to be able to offer our customers the chance to pre-order a piece of fashion history.&quot;</p><p>Make no mistake, pre-ordering is for people who love their clothes, who eat, breathe and sleep fashion, and for whom only the most exclusive of pieces will do. But it's also a sales technique that is being adopted by more and more labels and shops, as customers become more confident about buying online and as the internet continues to speed up the traditional cycles of trends and tastes. High-street giant Topshop has started offering its autumn 2012 Unique collection to editors for pre-orders – and where that commercial force leads, others are sure to follow.</p><p>Burberry, too, has become known for its engagement with online audiences, having last year launched a &quot;Tweetwalk&quot; (in which every catwalk look is tweeted during the show in real time) and, before that, a &quot;Runway to Reality&quot; service which means customers can buy pieces straight from the show via the company's website. &quot;Customers can buy immediately from the show and receive in six to eight weeks,&quot; explains chief creative officer Christopher Bailey. &quot;It has changed the whole system of buying, as well as the cycle of production. Basically you can buy every bag that goes down the runway, every coat, and the make-up as well.&quot; Needless to say, it's months before the same items are scheduled to arrive in the shops.</p><p>&quot;During the international fashion weeks, we see immediate responses from clients about the collections,&quot; says Selfridges' client-services manager, James Servini. &quot;We can receive enquiries as soon as a day after a show. It's mostly a very fashion-savvy customer who will be interested – somebody who has an intuitive sense of which looks define the coming season. They're extremely sure of how they want to dress, and particularly passionate about 'newness'.&quot;</p><p>With the refurbishment of the store's Designer Galleries this year, Selfridges has also launched a lookbook of imagery that has further increased the potential for pre-orders. Working with the buying team to gauge shipments and arrivals, these customers, their tastes and inputs are also helping to shape the selection that will finally arrive on the shop floor – James Servini points particularly to high-end and directional labels such as Haider Ackermann, Ann Demeulemeester and Rick Owens, which are consistently popular orders. The practice may be for a minority, but it's an excellent way for both designers and buyers to canvass opinion, of getting an instant reaction and a sense of which might be the strongest looks in the range.</p><p>&quot;Pre-ordering gives more choice to the customer,&quot; agrees designer Jonathan Saunders. &quot;Often people look for more special pieces – which are sometimes not picked up by the stores. It's really interesting to see what people select.&quot;</p><p>In this way, shops are slowly returning to the old system of trunk shows and private views. Some designers still do these in person – Michael Kors runs a circuit of chi-chi boutiques across the US for his diehard fans, while Nina Ricci's Peter Copping and Alber Elbaz at Lanvin have also resurrected the practice – but Net-a-Porter's idea is that the trunk show can be run digitally, and orders taken there. It's a modern approach with roots in a much more personalised couture tradition. Moda Operandi (which stocks Jonathan Saunders, Alexander Wang and Marc Jacobs, among many others) also offers online trunk shows, as well as from-the-catwalk ordering.</p><p>&quot;Everyone is planning the next season in advance,&quot; says Kay Barron, fashion-features editor at Harper's Bazaar, &quot;and we're not as spontaneous as we once were. You have to put quite a lot of thought into it and really understand your personal style. But it's always worth it, so long as you actually like what you've ordered when it arrives three months later.&quot;</p><p>They are not easy to find. The fact of the consumer squeeze is well known and almost every trading statement you'd care to mention in recent weeks talks about how &quot;challenging&quot; conditions are. </p><p>The much-feared &quot;double-dip&quot; recession looks like it has arrived with most forecasters saying that this country is now &quot;technically&quot; in one with the economy expected to show a second-consecutive quarter of shrinkage when the Office for National Statistics unveils the numbers for the first three months of 2012 in April. </p><p>Unemployment is still rising, confidence is falling, from pretty low levels too. Margins are going to be under pressure because if stores don't keep their prices low, they won't see any of their customers' money. </p><p>Is there any light at the end of the tunnel? Well perhaps. One plus point in retailers' favour is that it finally looks as if inflation is falling. It might be a year later than the Bank of England originally thought, but the downhill slopes have been reached. And there are forecasters who think it will come down faster than the official predictions would have you believe. </p><p>Shops' input costs are falling. The price of their raw materials, and the products they sell, appear to be easing. Which should make it easier for them to keep prices low while at least maintaining some sort of margin. </p><p>The Independent featured two retailers in our 10 to follow at the beginning of the year – JD Sports Fashion and Burberry. </p><p>We said buy the former at 624p, attracted by its ridiculously low valuation and the boost it might enjoy from a year with two major sporting events – the Olympics and the European Football Championships. </p><p>It seems someone was listening. The shares subsequently smashed through the 700p barrier and carried on gaining. They are now up nearly 20 per cent. But even at that price, they remain a bargain trading on just 6.7 times forecast earnings, with a respectable prospective yield of 3.5 per cent. At that price JD is still a buy. </p><p>Burberry's shares have broken through 1400p and also carried on. They are showing a similar percentage gain from when they were tipped at 1185p. </p><p>They now enjoy a barnstorming rating of 22.7 times forecast earnings, yielding just 1.8 per cent. That is largely because Burberry is now an international luxury brand with exposure to places that, unlike Britain, are growing, such as China. I'd be a shade reluctant to buy more at that price, but they are still off their highs last year and should be held for the long term. </p><p>Elsewhere, though, the picture gets harder. This column has already looked at M&amp;S (too expensive) and Next (ditto). Home Retail Group's problems have been well documented. We'll see if the new boss of Argos it has hired from America's Best Buy Group can turn things around. As for the shares, well, it might be best to keep a watching brief unless you're very brave. </p><p>The same goes for HMV. It is hard to see how chief executive Simon Fox can pull it out of its frightening slump. Selling the live music HMV Live to raise cash is depressing because it is a very good business. Again, this is one to avoid. </p><p>One which I quite like is N Brown. It is true that this clothes retailer's demographic is very similar to that of Argos. Companies serving &quot;ordinary people&quot;, if you like, are not finding it easy, even where they discount aggressively. The failure of Peacocks is a good example. Debt was the killer, there, but it only became the killer because of poor trading. All the same, N Brown is a risk, but it's one I might be inclined to hold. </p><p>Sports Direct is one to watch rather than buy right now. It is expensive, at nearly 14 times earnings for the year to 12 April and the yield is pitiful. The company is also, to put it mildly, run rather eccentrically. But it will benefit from this year's sporting events even more than JD, and the company does have a habit of getting it done. Perhaps it helps that shop floor staff can earn bumper bonuses along with the executives if targets are met. It might be expensive right now, but could be one to buy on weakness.</p><p>I'd advise caution on SuperGroup, even though it has bounced back a bit after falling to earth last year. </p><p>&quot;But I didn't let them dress me up, or anything,&quot; he adds, lest anyone consider him a mannequin. &quot;No, no. I just wore what I bought yesterday: Burberry, a bit of Adidas, Lacoste, Ralph Lauren.&quot; He has, it transpires, an appealingly common-sense approach to fashion.</p><p>&quot;If it looks good, I like it. I was always into fashion, but I never had the money to buy stuff before. I'm trying to get all the best bits I can now, while I'm still able to, you know?&quot;</p><p>Bugg is from Nottingham. A good-looking boy with a hairstyle that looks as if it requires product to maintain, he resembles the fifth member of Arctic Monkeys, weaned on a musical diet of Liam Gallagher and Pete Doherty. The fact that, respectively, he isn't and wasn't is what makes him such a beguiling anomaly. His debut single, &quot;Lightning Bolt&quot;, which came out a few months ago, sounded like vintage rock'*'roll, and was likened to Buddy Holly, Johnny Cash and early Dylan. All too often when people attempt to evoke such a distant period, they come across as cloying pastiche; Bugg somehow managed to sound entirely authentic.</p><p>But how is it done, that seeming authenticity? Is it down to the manner in which he sings – reedy, thrilling, Dylan-ish? The self-conscious brevity of his mostly two-minute songs? It there a special yesteryear switch on his microphone? &quot;I'm not really sure, to be honest. It just sort of comes out that way.&quot;</p><p>His new single, &quot;Taste It&quot;, has come out that way as well – two minutes and 24 seconds of twanging guitar and a highwire keening vocal – as does everything on his forthcoming, eponymously titled debut album.</p><p>He shrugs. &quot;I suppose I just like that Sixties retro feel, old rock'*'roll, the blues, Robert Johnson. I love all that stuff, man. It's the best.&quot;</p><p>Bugg was brought up on what was once Europe's largest housing estate. His father was a nurse, his mother in sales, and as a teenager he had no interest in music at all.</p><p>&quot;I was into football – had trials and stuff,&quot; he says. But then one day he was watching The Simpsons, the episode in which &quot;Vincent&quot;, Don McLean's limpid lament to Van Gogh, popped up. Bugg cannot explain what it was about the song that appealed to him, but something clearly did. He googled McLean, which led him in turn to Donovan, and then to George Harrison. He still hasn't got round to listening to very much of Bob Dylan, but promises to do so soon.</p><p>At 14, with his passion for football cooling, he was bought a guitar by his uncle, who showed him the basic chords. Within a year, he was gigging around Nottingham, and people told him that he was good, that he should do what every young hopeful does these days, and get himself on to X Factor, Britain's Got Talent. Amanda Holden would love him.</p><p>&quot;I was never interested in that,&quot; he says. &quot;I didn't like anybody that went on that show. They didn't write their own songs, so there was nothing in it for me. What was the point? I believed there was another way to go.&quot;</p><p>Quite what, though, he wasn't sure. Nobody from his housing estate had ever landed a record deal before. &quot;But I got lucky. I met a guy in Nottingham who knew a guy in Newcastle who knew a guy down in London who works for a record label. Six months later, I was signed.&quot;</p><p>That was last year. He has spent the past 12 months carefully crafting the album, staying true to the sound he loves so much. He tells me about one song, &quot;Kentucky&quot;, that goes: &quot;I'll be a man from Kentucky/Have a guitar but I've no money/That don't mean I'm blue....&quot;</p><p>&quot;I've never been to Kentucky,&quot; he says, &quot;but it's a story, a bit of imagination, like reading a book. Does that make sense? I'd love to go one day. Me on a road trip across America … That's the dream.&quot;</p><p>For the time being, Bugg is immersing himself in every artist critics tell him he reminds them of, most of them long dead. He admits to having little time for, as he puts it, &quot;dance tunes&quot; because they lack melody, and he plans to read Mojo magazine more. He also seems to be enjoying the fact that much of his audience is significantly older than your average 18-year-old draws.</p><p>&quot;But I do get a lot of young girls down the front as well,&quot; he is quick to point out. And what do they get from such a Sixties throwback? Bugg isn't sure. &quot;I'll have to ask them,&quot; he grins.</p><p>He yawns; he's tired. It was an early start this morning, yet another one. The promotional treadmill, he says, is exhausting.</p><p>&quot;It's a lot of hard work but I'm enjoying it, and I'm doing my best to take care of myself.&quot;</p><p>And how does he do that? &quot;Sleep well,&quot; he says. &quot;And eat lots of fruit.&quot;</p><p>Jake Bugg's EP 'Taste It' is out now. His debut album follows in the autumn. For more information: www.jakebugg.com</p><p>The bank was caught short by New York's Department of Financial Services (DFS), bit back publicly and then quickly negotiated a $340m (£216.5m) fine to settle allegations that it had breached US regulations on banking transactions with Iran.</p><p>Yet suggesting that the lightest of boardroom reshuffles is enough of a lesson for Standard Chartered to learn from this episode is dangerous. </p><p>Not only has the bank to settle with four further US regulators who have been probing its affairs, but activities in Myanmar, Libya and Sudan are also under scrutiny.</p><p>It is not that the bank's board has been found to have done anything glaringly wrong. But this episode is a good opportunity to spotlight the role of Sir John Peace, Standard Chartered's chairman. </p><p>Sir John is a busy man. He chairs three FTSE 100 companies: Standard Chartered, fashion house Burberry and credit-checking firm Experian. Some chairman struggle to cope with one role of such distinction. Sir John has amply coped with a trio of them. </p><p>The latter two are siblings from his successful stewardship of Great Universal Stores which was split into three parts (the third being Argos owner Home Retail Group), creating great value for shareholders.</p><p>You can forgive Sir John for being emotionally attached to Experian. He effectively founded the business within GUS which he joined as a youngster in 1970. Efforts to find his replacement there came to nothing, even though he reluctantly vowed to step down when he was appointed to chair Standard Chartered in 2009.</p><p>I'm not suggesting that he isn't one of Britain's leading businessmen. It would also be unwise to fall into the same trap as Barclays, where a string of can-carrying resignations left a hole at the top of the bank. But after this incident at Standard Chartered, it feels right that something's got to give.</p><p>This shone in the Georgian sunshine with the promise of the deliverance he has been pursuing with growing confidence in the last few weeks and there was a huge temptation to believe that it had all been true, that the Tiger was back.</p><p>Unfortunately, it passed soon enough. In all, the swing that was supposed to have given him the impetus to resume his chase of Jack Nicklaus' record mark of 18 major titles failed five times, resulting in grotesque snap hooks which cost him three shots, two, dispiritingly, on the 17th and 18th holes.</p><p>That left him on even par – hardly disastrous at a stage of the tournament where even in the best of his days he tended to lurk rather than browbeat – but the true cost was in the palpable sense of a missed opportunity.</p><p>Not to lead in early running for a title he has already won four times – but in creating the sense that once more he might just be the man setting the agenda for an entire game.</p><p>&quot;I'm ready,&quot; Woods tweeted to the world on the eve of the 76th Masters without quite specifying in what area he was most prepared.</p><p>We didn't have to speculate too long. If the spirit was strong enough, there were the most serious problems of technique. Over the first nine, which he finished at an encouraging one under, he landed on just two fairways. This was not the serene return to the centre of the golfing universe so many had anticipated.</p><p>It was the game's version of street fighting and these days it is a desperate business with which the Tiger is required to busy himself in a way that could never have been imagined before his game and his life began to unravel two and a half years ago. If he was to inflict himself on this tournament which he last won seven years ago, it would only be by the equivalent of house-to-house fighting and on the first holes there had to be shock at the shortfall between good, aggressive intentions and workable technique.</p><p>Yet there was clear evidence of a willingness to fight at the treacherously sloping third green. There, the Tiger went one under when he might easily have already been two shots adrift. This was a case of superior damage control through a start which even by his own haphazard standards on a first day here was reckless, to say the least.</p><p>Certainly, it revealed a disturbing gap between the rhapsodies of praise for his new swing coach, Sean Foley, and a performance on the first and second tees which seemed programmed more than anything else to bring on a nervous breakdown.</p><p>The Tiger's driver looked about as refined as a blunderbuss as he hooked hugely left on both occasions.</p><p>On the first tee the Tiger provided an instant bromide for those most filled with passion by his arrival in mid-morning.</p><p>It was even worse at the par-five second, when another hook landed in a creek and required a penalty drop. On both occasions the Tiger's body language was less than triumphant.</p><p>But, no, he wouldn't let go. Par was retrieved on both occasions and when he went one under at the third a roar of encouragement raced across the course.</p><p>There was another sickening mishap on the seventh when he hooked again and narrowly missed a bunker. His expression was filled with self-disgust and this deepened when his chip from the fringe could not prevent his first bogey.</p><p>This was not where he believed he was heading after surviving the threat of an outward half, which might easily have rivalled the one which came on the opening day of his first success here 15 years ago. Then he rocketed to 40, a potential disaster that required an astonishing touch which retrieved six shots on the back nine.</p><p>That is the kind of surge which, until not so long ago, was the trademark of the most overwhelming golfer the game had ever known and yesterday it was, when you considered all that had gone before, perhaps a little much to ask, especially, when you recalled his career tendency to labour on the first day, then work seriously to separate the rest of the field from any serious self-belief.</p><p>Between 1997 and 2002 it was a formula guaranteed to tear the heart out of all opposition. Yesterday he could only lament the loss of such a devastating touch and say: &quot;I fought my way through the day even though I shot a few wild ones. I was pleased that I stayed committed and I'll take that attitude into tomorrow.&quot;</p><p>He birdied the eighth to return to the red and then, on the 10th which did so much to undermine his young rival Rory McIlroy last year, he at last produced shots of genuine authority. He played his approach shot quite beautifully, then drilled home the birdie putt with his old master's touch.</p><p>The crowd sent a message to Amen Corner that the Tiger was coming. It was maybe a little early to say precisely quite what shape he was in, but there had to be more than a touch of optimism.</p><p>He had, after all, avoided the threat of a most serious accident and there were indeed moments when he seemed willing to stand and fight with the kind of resilience that was last seen at its best when he won the 2008 US Open. He did that virtually, as an admiring McIlroy put it, on one leg.</p><p>Yesterday, there was no sign of physical discomfort. What you had to worry about was that latest crack in a once shining mirror.</p><p>Shot, shank, strides: Three of the best</p><p>Shot of the Day</p><p>It looked like it was going to be a catastrophic second hole for Tiger Woods, after he was forced to take a penalty shot after hooking the ball into the trees. But he recovered well after a long iron brought him close to the green, followed by a beautiful chip which allowed him to save par.</p><p>Shank of The Day</p><p>The veteran Sandy Lyle, Masters champion in 1988, made an awful start at Augusta yesterday. The 54-year-old Scot was three over after two holes following a woeful bogey and a double bogey. He was then nine over-par by the seventh hole following a triple bogey.</p><p>Outfit of the Day</p><p>What did you expect? He was never going to dress sombrely for the occasion. Ian Poulter, who also moonlights as a fashion designer, turned up for his first hole at Augusta yesterday sporting what can only be described as outrageous pink trousers bearing the Burberry check.</p><p>Facts in figures</p><p>69 Paul Lawrie's score, breaking 70 for the first time at the event.</p><p>1996 The year when a Briton last won the Masters – Nick Faldo for his third time.</p><p>290 Odds to one against Stenson available at the start of play.</p><p>2 Number of birdies by Tiger Woods in his first nine holes yesterday.</p><p>21 Tiger Woods' age when he first won the Masters in 1997.</p><p>But when it emerged that the £80m price tag could be met by the private sector, including a £5m donation from Lord Ashcroft – who knows a bit about spending money offshore – the royal flagship became a more difficult target. How do you oppose something which we taxpayers aren't paying for, and will bring a smile to the face of an 85-year-old great-grandmother?</p><p>Next came the announcement that there would be a river pageant, including a flotilla of 1,000 boats sailing down the Thames for the jubilee celebrations in June, at a cost of £10m – yet all funded by sponsorship (though the cost of security will come from the taxpayer). Jibs flapping all round. How do we negotiate such constitutional choppiness? </p><p>Yes, we appreciate the Queen for her 60 years on the throne, and we want her to enjoy her weekend in June. We'll probably join in in some way, perhaps even go to the Thames to watch the spectacle. Even if we don't want to take part, we must acknowledge that the weekend will boost tourism, and therefore the economy (although maybe the people painting the Queen's personal Gloriana barge in 17th century gold could use a cheaper, less ostentatious commodity instead). </p><p>All of this leaves us in difficult and, dare I say, ideologically uncharted waters. Can you celebrate the privately funded yacht and jubilee if you resent paying for the Royal Family for the rest of the time?</p><p>I have a modest proposal that I hope will help. Why don't we turn the monarchy, and the Queen herself, into a PFI – a private finance initiative? Funding for the royal yacht is a good model for this – something owned and run by the state, but funded by the private sector. There is an inherent difficulty I recognise which is, of course, that the Queen is the state, but am sure we could get round that. You could raise some of the money through sponsorship: for the yacht, as an example, HMS Burberry perhaps? Jack Wills jerseys for the cabin stewards?</p><p>Better still, why not take a tip from Nick Clegg, who on Monday called for more John Lewis-style companies that are owned by their staff, and mutualise Her Majesty? Turn the Royal Family into the Queen's Co-op. The Duchess of Cambridge could literally be the People's Princess. </p><p>There would be a bit of private funding to help to meet the annual costs of the Royal Family – which are about £40m (although that figure does not take into account the £50m cost of last year's royal wedding, and the anti-monarchy group Republic says the real annual figure is actually £100m). But members of the public could opt to buy shares in the mutual monarchy, which would be the main source of funding. Anyone who didn't want to buy shares wouldn't have to. The public cost of the monarchy could be spent elsewhere. That £40m is not going to do much to dent the deficit, but it will help a bit, and pay for a few nurses' salaries or some new school classrooms.</p><p>And if, as I may have run out of sailing metaphors, I could switch to hunting to conclude: a mutualised monarchy would shoot the left's fox, because it would take the cost out of the republican argument; and it would shoot the right's fox, because they want a smaller state. In the middle, the Queen never knowingly undersold. Isn't that something to celebrate? </p><p>AllSaints, the fashion chain, has poached a director from Burberry to be its new chief executive. William Kim, who was the senior vice-president of retail and digital commerce at Burberry, will join the private equity-owned AllSaints on 15 October. Founded in 1994, the clothing retailer has 65 stores and 35 concessions in the UK, Europe and US. </p><p>&quot;Personally, I have long been a pelt-wearing vegetarian. By the laws of reflex liberalism, those of my ilk are not supposed to 'do skin'. And yet, like the non-paint-hurling majority, I am wary of an animal rights lobby that refers to medical testing as a &quot;holocaust&quot;, terrorises scientists and their families, and would prohibit pets. To compare their activism to that of suffragettes or anti-Nazi protesters is reverse anthropomorphism at its most obscene.&quot;</p><p>Moreover, there's an argument to say that the fur industry helps, not harms, animal populations. &quot;It is in no way perverse to suggest that the industry is also beneficial for animals, in the sense that culling can regulate and thus secure populations – as deer culling does in Britain.&quot; </p>Her marriage is wonderful, she&#039;s given up alcohol and from tomorrow she&#039;s hosting the nightly &#039;Strictly&#039; spin-off show &#039;It Takes Two&#039;<p>Princess Diana changed all that. Or the clever people who drew up the guest-list for the Serpentine Gallery summer party in 1994. She arrived in a killer black dress, on the same day that Prince Charles discussed the collapse of their marriage in a Jonathan Dimbleby interview.</p><p>Perhaps not a great day for the Royals, but one that transformed the face of the arts party. Suddenly, every A-, B- and C-lister was lining up to get into the party in Hyde Park. Last week's annual shindig drew Mischa Barton and a glittering shoal of models.</p><p>The event inspired other galleries to do the same – to reach out beyond their own industry's stars. As summer parties begin to kick off across the arts sector, we can perhaps expect the same extravagance.</p><p>And yet, the blingy &quot;big event&quot; arts party is beginning to feel inappropriately flashy in our current climate. Call my complaint sour grapes – I didn't get my Serpentine Gallery invite this year – but then, I remember feeling uncomfortable there last year, and the year before that.</p><p>Of course, the gallery should be congratulated for bringing bling to the arts, on one level. It is a very networky and American way of doing business, by drawing rich potential philanthropists, sponsors, donors, to their doors.</p><p>Yet now, in this climate of double-dip recessions and Government cuts to arts funding (with the prospect of more forever looming), this kind of hot ticket seems like a celebration of money, power, and fame, while the &quot;arts&quot; bit of the &quot;arts party&quot; is drowned out.</p><p>Three years ago, when the recession first hit the arts, I was at the Cannes Film Festival and noticed that the film industry toned down its parties, which had always been the blingest of the bling. The paring down was a gesture that acknowledged the larger economic environment, and hailed a new, non-conspicuous consumption era.</p><p>The Serpentine manages to do better than most to pull in major private sponsorship, and Julia Peyton-Jones, its director, clearly knows how to tub-thump for money, but two years ago, even she warned that private philanthropy cannot fill the gap that any reduction in Government arts funding leaves behind.</p><p>And does a high-voltage party send an unsavoury message out to the arts world? To have an arts event morph into a starry fashion and showbiz event too means it has, in some ways, become a prisoner of its success. Burberry had its umbrellas everywhere last summer. This year, the fashion designer Leon Max sponsored the party.</p><p>The books industry has kept it far more purist. You get the occasional celebrity at a books party but they have a reason to be there – they've just written a memoir, or brought out a cookbook – but even so, they are like lesser-spotted Welsh snow leopards when we compare their numbers to those in the visual arts.</p><p>Over the past 10 years, there has been a significant diminution of publishing parties. When they're grand, they're really very grand: Bloomsbury pulls out all the stops in its annual Bloomsbury Square party. But what's different about it is that the stars of the party, and other parties like it, are the authors, whereas the star of this year's Serpentine Gallery party was, arguably, Mischa Barton.</p><p>Eurazeo, the French private-equity firm, Zegna, an Italian luxury brand, and PPR, one of France's biggest luxury houses, are all known to have had recent talks with the Bond suit-maker about a potential offer. If the company is sold, it could fetch up to €350m (£300m).</p><p>Brioni declined to comment.</p><p>The Rome-based family-owned group still manufactures its entire range in Italy. Its suits start at $4,000 (£2,570) and can cost $47,000.</p><p>The business was founded in 1945 and now has boutiques in major cities across the world. It reported an operating profit of €32m for 2010 and is expanding into casualwear.</p><p>Eurazeo recently bought a stake in Italian ski-wear label Moncler, while PPR has been trying to offload its catalogue business Redcats in a move to focus on luxury goods.</p><p>Luxury goods groups, which have until recently remained resilient to the downturn, have started to see their share prices fall due to doubts over potential growth in emerging markets such as China. The UK label Burberry saw a 12.5 per cent fall on its share price this week.</p><p>The group, which has 196 retail stores, 207 concessions, 48 outlet shops and 58 franchise stores worldwide, said like-for-like sales ground to a halt in the 10 weeks to September 8 and have started to fall over recent weeks. Total sales including new space were up 6%.</p><p>The luxury goods firm, famous for its red, black and camel check, warned adjusted pre-tax profits for the year to March 31 will be around the lower end of market expectations.</p><p>Burberry, which was founded in 1856, spent much of the year bucking the gloomy trend in the wider retail sector due to its exposure to robust emerging markets, especially China.</p><p>Burberry chief executive Angela Ahrendts warned the external environment was &quot;becoming more challenging&quot;.</p><p>She added: &quot;Given this background, we are tightly managing discretionary costs and taking appropriate actions to protect short term profitability.&quot;</p><p>The flat like-for-like sales in the second quarter so far are a sharp slowdown from the 6% hike reported for the first quarter to June 30.</p><p>Burberry reported a 24% surge in annual profits to £366 million in its last financial year, while total revenues were also up 24% to £1.9 billion as key Asian markets showed more strong growth and flagship stores in London and Paris performed well.</p><p>Burberry previously announced plans to add a further 12% to 14% of selling space in this financial year but did not give details of store openings in today's update.</p><p>The group has been focusing on larger format stores, such as its relocated site in London's Regent Street.</p><p>It is due to issue another trading update on October 11 before its interim results for the six months to September 30 on November 7.</p><p>Burberry shares slumped 17% in the wake of the warning, wiping £1 billion from its market value and leaving the stock at its lowest point this year.</p><p>The previous range of market forecasts for the financial year had been for Burberry to achieve profits of between £407 million and £455 million.</p><p>Investec Securities analyst Bathany Hocking said: &quot;We have been fans of Burberry, and remain of the view that the strategy, luxury positioning and management team should lead to long-term sector outperformance.</p><p>&quot;Today's statement does, however, imply a significant slowdown and Burberry is not immune from wider macro-economic turbulence.&quot;</p><p>PA</p><p>The cashmere company has been keeping people warm for 215 years, but recently efforts to combine its long heritage with more modern glamour has given the Scottish firm's chances of cracking the global market a rosy glow.</p><p>Johnstons is in its fifth year of a collaboration with Christopher Kane, the multi-award winning designer who has dreamt up outfits for Kylie Minogue videos. Never mind that it is the only remaining vertical mill in the UK – meaning it does everything from taking the raw fibre to producing the finished garment for its own label. Supplying luxury brands including Chanel and Hermes has helped to lend it a new-found cachet with fashionistas.</p><p>Linny Oliphant, brand manager at Johnstons says: &quot;We have recently re-branded and spent £1m on our Eastfield Mills site in Hawick. We remain true to our roots and customers love our heritage and the fact we are made in Britain.&quot;</p><p>With London Fashion Week in full flow, it is reassuringly familiar story. Add in hopes that the Olympics and Queen's Diamond Jubilee will lure the rich and famous to Britain from around the world, and 2012 is shaping up to be a big year for the British luxury goods.</p><p>Capitalising on this unique opportunity was top of the agenda last month at a breakfast organised by Walpole, the British luxury body, and hosted by jeweller Boodles on Bond Street.</p><p>There is a chance for some of Walpole's members to move up – from being part of a cottage industry to genuine challengers to those few UK fashion powerhouses, such as Mulberry and Burberry.</p><p>London Fashion Week is important to the capital: it pumps £30m into the economy and brings in £100m of orders for the designer brands that grace the catwalks. However, the show is still in the shadow similar events in the major fashion centres like Milan or Paris. As the chairman of a major Italian luxury goods house says: &quot;London is known for watching the young and the up-and-coming designers but not for the large, established luxury houses.&quot;</p><p>Many of the designers whose garments make it on to the catwalk have wafer-thin profits; the most successful designers globally are supported by wealthy conglomerates that make the real money on perfume sales.</p><p>The figures also show the UK hasn't completely cracked the fashion market. The UK exports an impressive £3.9bn of clothing and footwear a year, but this is dwarfed by the £14.6bn of imported garments.</p><p>A handful of British luxury brands have made it big. Burberry has a market cap of £6.3bn and Mulberry is worth more than £1.1bn. Other successful labels have been snapped up by overseas buyers, with Jimmy Choo and leather goods firm Belstaff owned by Swiss company Labelux and McQueen and Stella McCartney part of French group PPR.</p><p>Like Johnstons, they are making the most of the British credentials as a way of wooing spenders. Burberry has been big on promoting its 'Made in Britain' roots. It is sponsoring a scholarship at the Royal College of Art and Design and last year expanded its factory in Castleford, West Yorkshire. The group even shows videos of its factory in overseas stores.</p><p>Harold Tillman, chairman of the British Fashion Council and owner of Jaeger and Aquascutum, says: &quot;We are having our time. British fashion is back and we have the opportunity to grow globally. People want to buy British – made in Britain reeks of quality. Our customers are international – not just Chinese but from across the globe.&quot;</p><p>Upmarket jewellery brand and host of the luxury breakfast get-together, Boodles, also boasts a long history. Michael Wainwright, sitting in the plush surroundings of his lavish white leather and silk upholstered boutique in the heart of London's luxury sector, is the fifth generation of his family to run the 214-year-old business. Wainwright is trying to ensure the business keeps up with the 21st century despite its age, and is launching a website in Arabic and Mandarin in May. There are also shops planned for Hong Kong to add to the five Boodles has in the UK.</p><p>However, Wainwright argues that UK luxury groups cannot rely on using their long lives as unique selling points. For example, handbag and accessories brand Mulberry has been a dazzling performer and is a relative newcomer [created in 1971]. </p><p>Wainwright says: &quot;It isn't just about the heritage, it's making the people behind the brand accessible.&quot;</p><p>Wainwright is doing just this by cancelling his summer holiday, so that he is in town to welcome shoppers to his London stores during the Olympics and Diamond Jubilee. Similarly, Burberry will open its huge Regent Street flagship store before the Olympic flame is lit in late July The influx of summer visitors mean sales are expected to rocket. A 3.5 per cent increase forecast for the London's West End alone. The New West End Company predicts an additional £16.6m in revenue as a direct consequence of the Games. There will be impossibly wealthy tourists spending implausibly vast sums from the US, China, Russia, Middle East, Nigeria and Brazil.</p><p>The Jubilee celebration has a ready made face of luxury: the Queen and the Royal family. Julia Carrick, chief executive at Walpole, says: &quot;For the luxury sector, the Queen and her family are the best ambassadors of all. The Queen has helped British brands expand to become global players.&quot; </p><p>Verdict Research forecasts the global luxury goods industry will increase by £37bn to £107bn by 2015. This market is not just important to the brands themselves. The manufacture of luxury goods does its bit for the UK's economy, while there is a wealth of other jobs the sector supports.</p><p>Luca Solca, Crédit Agricole Cheuvreux global head of European research with a focus on luxury, says: &quot;The most important British brands seem less dependent on domestic manufacturing than what one typically finds in Switzerland or France. Hence, most of the benefits to the British economy come in the shape of high level job creation – creation, marketing, commercial and general management are typically in London – retail investments and operations, and all of the indirect effects a heightened level of economic activity typically brings.&quot;</p><p>The UK doesn't have luxury conglomerates on the scale of LVMH, Richemont or PPR but brands are – after two centuries in some cases – investing in global expansion for a brighter, luxurious future.</p><p>Johnstons of Elgin</p><p>Sales: £50m</p><p>Johnstons has been dyeing, spinning, weaving and knitting cashmere since 1797.</p><p>Burberry</p><p>Sales: £1.5bn</p><p>Thomas Burberry, a 21-year-old draper’s apprentice, opened his first shop in Basingstoke, Hampshire in 1856</p><p>Paul Smith</p><p>Sales: £196m</p><p>Sir Paul Smith opened his first shop in 1970 in his home town of Nottingham and by 1976 he had shown his first collection in Paris. He now has 12 different Paul Smith collections.</p><p>Mulberry</p><p>Sales: £122m</p><p>Founder Roger Saul was ousted from the Mulberry board in 2002 after a spat with then chief executive Godfrey Davis. The Somerset based company will soon be headed by a Frenchman when Bruno Guillon joins from French rival Hermes next month.</p><p></p><p>The anecdote – related by the economist Dambisa Moyo in her recent study of nascent Chinese supremacy, How the West Was Lost – underlines the uphill struggle faced by British manufacturers fighting unsuccessfully to stem the tide against their low-cost rivals.</p><p>More recently, the Chancellor, George Osborne, pinned hopes on manufacturers to drag the UK out of its present malaise with a call for a Britain &quot;borne aloft by the march of the makers&quot;. Unfortunately, no sooner was the soundbite out of his mouth than the debt crisis in the eurozone – still our biggest export market, accounting for some 40 per cent of sales – began biting hard. In the first three months of this year, when the country's double-dip recession was confirmed, our manufacturers were stagnant rather than propelling us towards the promised land of recovery.</p><p>From world-leading companies such as GlaxoSmithKline in pharmaceuticals, BAE Systems in defence technology and Burberry in fashion, &quot;Made in Britain&quot; is still a label to be proud of, but there is less of it around than there used to be. It looks strange that the Chancellor should even have bothered putting his eggs in the manufacturing basket when the figures paint a stark picture of its declining significance to Britain.</p><p>In 1980, manufacturing employed 6.3 million people, accounting for 23 per cent of the workforce. By the end of last year this had shrank by around two-thirds to 2.3 million, representing 7.5 per cent of British employees. The nation's manufacturing base was hollowed out first under Margaret Thatcher and then under Tony Blair as New Labour was bewitched by the financial sector and the pursuit of a service-led economy. Manufacturing's share of the UK economy overall, 23 per cent in 1980, has dwindled to just 10 per cent.</p><p>But it's not all bad news, as industry cheerleaders are keen to highlight. The UK's industrial base may be little more than a 10th of the size of China's, but we are still the world's ninth-largest manufacturer, according to the EEF manufacturers' trade body. And there's still plenty of stuff we do well. Go back to China, for example, and a grand old British name like Rolls-Royce. We might not be able to compete any more in low-cost manufacturing, but our new global economic overlords still wants to buy our cars.</p><p>Demand for Rolls-Royces in China, which had more than a million millionaires in 2011, is such that it overtook the US as the firm's biggest market in 2011. Last year the firm could barely keep up with demand for its Phantom Dragon, costing $1.2m (£770,000). Rolls-Royce sold out of the model in two months.</p><p>In May, Britain made 141,146 cars, the highest number in eight years, with vast numbers finding their way to the world's second-largest economy. The story of the last decade may be the quadrupling of Chinese imports to the UK – £31.5bn last year – but less remarked upon is that our exports to China jumped more than six times to £9.3bn during the same period. There is some ground for optimism.</p><p>Tim Bradshaw, the CBI's head of industrial policy and innovation, reckons cars could take a big chunk out of Britain's trade deficit, which stood at more than £10bn in April: &quot;At the moment sales of higher-end cars to China are worth about £2bn a year, but at the current rate of growth that could be up to £8-9bn by 2020. So just on cars to China alone we could eliminate a quarter of our trade deficit.&quot;</p><p>There are other things we do well, Mr Bradshaw adds. &quot;It's not just the likes of Jaguar, Land Rover and Bentley. We are also pretty good at some of the more basic manufacturing, including chemical production. They may not be complex products but there are complex processes involved in making them. The UK accounts for around 5 per cent of the global market share in pharmaceuticals, chemicals and plastics manufacturing.&quot;</p><p>China is also losing its in-built advantage on labour costs which tempted so many firms to shift production there. China's rate of wage inflation is such that, five or 10 years down the line, they will be be less competitive on wages. Aeronautics is another UK strength. The Airbus A380 – at £254m a pop – is 54 per cent UK-made by value, if Rolls-Royce's Trent 900 engines are included.</p><p>The Chancellor has set a target of doubling the UK's total exports – £487bn last year – to £1trn by 2020. Peter Russell, Royal Bank of Scotland's head of manufacturing who works with a host of British firms, calls this target &quot;wildly ambitious&quot; because sluggish Europe remains by far our biggest export market, &quot;and that is not likely to change in the near term&quot;.</p><p>Mr Russell also warns of a &quot;real demographic challenge&quot; with 30 per cent of the UK's stronger manufacturing workforce set to retire over the next 10 years. But British firms are pursuing more opportunities in the Bric economies as well as the Middle East.</p><p>Britain may not a have a future as the workshop of the world – but we can be a hi-tech brains trust leading the way on innovation, Mr Russell says. So maybe Mr Osborne's &quot;march of the makers&quot; could bear fruit if we can make the things that China and other emergent economies want over the next decade.</p><p>He concludes: &quot;I don't think we're ever returning to the status of being a top five manufacturer in the world: our role is being more technical and smart. It is about value-creation and making sure that our manufacturers get more than their fair share.&quot;</p>Her marriage is wonderful, she&#039;s given up alcohol and from tomorrow she&#039;s hosting the nightly &#039;Strictly&#039; spin-off show &#039;It Takes Two&#039;<p>City grandees want to do the same. Instead of raincoats, the City is exporting its financial and regulatory expertise to places such as Moscow, Dubai and Toronto. The busiest catwalk is Moscow, where The CityUK, the Square Mile's promotional trade body, is the lead partner working with the Kremlin on developing the country's new International Finance Centre. Dubai signed up with The CityUK last week to work on its financial centre, and Toronto is said to be not far off.</p><p>Danny Corrigan, the deputy chairman of CityUK's Russian liaison group, coined the Burberry phrase for how the City is &quot;copying and pasting&quot; its regulatory, legal and accountancy standards on to Moscow. The Russian capital is already the third-biggest revenue earner for the City's magic circle of lawyers and accountants after London and New York. Corrigan, who runs the roubles desk at Icap, says financial experts are tripping over themselves to do business in Moscow – BA has just upgraded its route into the city, one of its most profitable and busiest.</p><p>Another Russian delegation was in London last week for talks on public-private partnership projects, while the Lord Mayor, David Wootton, is due to visit Moscow again in July. With Wootton will be representatives from hundreds of financial firms, including the London Stock Exchange.</p><p>Behind the scenes, the LSE is already working with the Moscow exchange on expanding its derivatives and securities market as it diversifies away from natural resources, but more concrete arrangements are likely. Nearly 20 per cent of London's market volume is now trading in Russian shares, so closer ties make sense.</p><p>The CityUK's Richard Normington says London was chosen – ahead of Frankfurt – because it sets the gold standard for regulatory work. You can be forgiven for being cynical about the City's high standards after the banking crash, but, apparently, London still leads the way on regulatory issues such as alternative resolution disputes, as well as branding. There may be construction work in the pipeline too – a decision on whether Moscow will build its own new Canary Wharf will be taken after its presidential elections next Sunday.</p><p>It's not just finance that's growing – trade is on the up, with Russia the UK's 12th-biggest export market. The Government sees long-term potential for the world's biggest country and eighth-largest retail market– there's a Burberry in Moscow's best shopping street.</p><p>Lord Green, the trade minister and former chairman of HSBC, has made Russia a priority. But he's also been criticised by MPs for allowing UK Trade &amp; Investment to push Russia as a trading partner, because of worries over the regime. Indeed, Labour MP Denis MacShane lambasted Lord Green two weeks ago for hosting a London conference to sell Russia's new Skolkovo Innovation Park, because, he alleged, it legitimised a regime &quot; plagued by criminality and corruption&quot;. One of Russia's richest oligarchs, Viktor Vekselberg, who is in charge of the project billed as Russia's Silicon Valley, was the main speaker at the event, which drew more than 100 British investors and scientists.</p><p>Vekselberg is one of the three oligarchs who own half of TNK-BP, the joint venture with BP. The UK oil giant is one of the first to work with Skolkovo, agreeing a £9m grant to back Imperial College and its Russian university partner for research into oil refining.</p><p>Ironically, one of the stated aims of Skolkovo is to stop the brain-drain – and money drain – to cities such as London; Russia wants the Brits to go there instead. But should UK companies be expanding into Russia? Or will new players get burnt, as MacShane suggests, like the hedge fund Hermitage or BP?</p><p>Who better to ask than David Peattie, BP's head of Russia? BP is the biggest foreign investor in the country. Peattie says the TNK partnership has been a huge success, despite its ups and downs. Since TNK-BP was launched in 2003, Russia has earned $150bn (£95bn) in taxes and duties, while BP has made $19bn in dividends – and the dividend to BP's shareholders last year was largely covered by the $3.7bn TNK cash dividend. While the spat with TNK over the failed Rosneft deal is still going through the courts, Peattie says personal relations with the three oligarchs are good: &quot;There's never a dull moment.&quot;</p><p>But is it worth the gamble? BP certainly thinks so, as does The CityUK, which points out that it's because the Russians want to improve their reputation that the City has been invited in.</p><p>Who knows? But maybe the City can do some good by helping to check the wilder side of the Russian bear.</p><p>Darrington takes a bite out of businesses which refuse to accept pay criticism</p><p>Hooray for Sir Michael Darrington, the former chief executive of the cheerful Greggs pie-to-pastry shops. Darrington brought some much-needed sense into the great pay debate last week when he said business was wrong to view the recent criticism of boardroom pay as anti-business.</p><p>Quite the reverse, he says. It is business that is being anti-business by attacking the criticism, and by defending its own pay levels. Or, as Darrington put it with the bluntness of a Greggs butty: &quot;It is a smokescreen and a lot of bollocks – it is the greed of the people [at the top] that is anti-business.&quot;</p><p>What friends he may have in the business world will have been tearing their hair out when he added: &quot;If the current packages were halved, senior executives and bankers would still be overpaid.&quot;</p><p>If business does want society to be pro-business – which largely it is – then more notice should be taken of Darrington's comments. While he's the latest to break ranks with his peers, and now plans his own campaign against excessive boardroom pay deals, he's not the first. That accolade goes to Sir Owen Green, the ex-boss of BTR that became Invensys, who was the first UK businessmen to warn on excessive pay awards in the early 1990s. Owen predicted then that the sky-high packages being paid to businessmen would lead to social problems, even civil unrest. Public shame was his answer to the problem.</p><p>Antonio Horta-Osorio, the thoughtful Lloyds Banking Group chief executive, seems to have taken this on board. His decision to claw back bonuses from executives at the time of the PPI mis-selling scandal is the right one, and he should be praised for taking such a bold move. As Lloyds' results showed, the bank has also slashed bonuses to executives by 50 per cent – and to staff by 30 per cent – following its £3.5bn loss. Taxpayers are now sitting on a £10bn loss.</p><p>RBS also cut back its bonus pool. If your company is loss-making, you could argue that executives shouldn't be taking any bonus at all. Being pro-business means you share in failure as well as success.</p><p>The Baroness, a non-executive director of Royal Bank of Scotland, took part in the most extraordinary interview on the Today radio programme last week, on the Davies report, in which she said the fixation on quotas was silly, and that even a board of 20 men could be considered a balanced one, provided that the men think differently.</p><p>Then she showed her prejudice even more by asking why people say having more women on boards would bring a different perspective. Hello? Well, even the great John Humphrys choked at this, calling on Sarah Montague to help persuade Noakes that surely having a gender mix, as well as different personalities, would be healthy?</p><p>Noakes wasn't having it; nor did she think the Norwegian experience, where the government introduced quotas making it compulsory for companies to have 40 per cent of women on their boards, was a good one.</p><p>In fact, she was contemptuous, arguing that quotas have led to Norwegian women holding seven or eight NED jobs each. So? What's wrong with that? The former Conservative House of Lords Treasury spokesman omitted to say that she also sits on the boards of Carpetright and Severn Trent, is on the audit committee of both RBS and Severn, and is a co-director of the Thomson-Reuters Share Foundation. Not much free time, then.</p><p>As any thoughtful person will understand, taking the sort of brave leap which the Norwegians did requires time to work through, with constant updating and refining. All the people I've spoken to in Norway are pleased with the progress so far, but they know, too, that it's only by increasing the pipeline at the executive level, that they will get a supply of more women available in the pool for the NED roles. And it's only by having more women on the boards that you encourage more women to come up the executive level; so, a virtuous circle.</p><p>Quotas are imperfect; tackling sensitive issues always will be. But, as Norway has shown, taking bold decisions by introducing fixed quotas, and, in France, by threatening them, is having a dynamic impact on board composition and bringing about swift change. The French have set a quota that 40 per cent of the boards of leading firms should be female within five years, and since it was announced the number has shot up from 13 per cent to 20 per cent. French luxury-goods maker LVMH has gone even further, and has pledged to promote women so that they take up 30 per cent of its executive positions.</p><p>But the UK experience, since Davies suggested that a quarter of all NEDs be women by 2015, hasn't been great; in fact, it's lamentable. Only 33 companies from the FTSE 100 have bothered to inform him of their plans. And, of the 93 new board seats up for grabs since February, only 21 have gone to women. The number of women on FTSE 100 boards has only risen from 12.5 per cent to 14.2 per cent, and from 7.8 per cent to 9.9 per cent at the FTSE 250 firms, although half of these have no women at all on their boards. The really bad boys are those in the FTSE 300, but David Cameron hopes to shame them into action by writing them a letter; good luck to him.</p><p>If the increase continues at this rate it will take at least another 20 years to achieve the levels which everyone from top businessmen such as CBI president Sir Roger Carr to the Prime Minister agrees is not just fair, but also good for business. There's masses of research which shows that having more women on boards improves productivity and overall performance of companies, a point made again by Cameron last week.</p><p>You only have to look at Burberry, where two top women – Angela Ahrendts is chief executive and Stacey Cartwright is finance director – are enjoying spectacular success, demonstrating that big change only happens when diversity gets to a certain scale. This is a numbers game.</p><p>That's why listening to Noakes is so dispiriting. She speaks to the &quot;only woman in the room syndrome&quot; which dominates so many of our boardrooms, where the female directors seem to quite like being the queen bees and don't want other women around.</p><p>Oddly enough, men don't seem to mind having these personalities around them either, perhaps because they act like men. This is partly what's wrong with the present culture; all too often, the male relationships on the board have a touch of the homoerotic about them. And there's a tribal element to it all, too – a deep need in the male psyche to train younger colleagues in their own image.</p><p>One wonders if one of the reasons that Davies and Cameron are so resistant to fixed quotas is that they are listening to too many &quot;only woman in the room&quot; types. There are also a lot of senior women who secretly believe in fixed quotas, but who fear that if they say so publicly, they risk being seen as overly radical.</p><p>If Mr Cameron is so persuaded that having more women on boards is for the economic good, then he should waste no time – just take the plunge and set a date for fixed quotas. If he doesn't, the EU will do it for him, next March. Moving now could also help Cameron out on the women's vote he's so worried about losing, as I can't think of another single action which could be introduced – cost free – that would show the female population that he is serious about fairness. Nearly half the workforce is female, and half of all graduates are women; yet they are shut out from reaching their potential. (We need to make childcare tax-deductible, but that's for another day).</p><p>Those who argue against quotas claim that they create tokenism – that the women are there for show alone. But surely if all the compelling arguments dictate that company performance does increase with more women on boards, then that can't be true.</p><p>The other big obstacle often raised is the one of supply; that the gene pool of women is too small. This is rubbish – search firms will just have to look harder. The women are there, it's just that they are invisible, tucked away in marketing, or human resources – corners ignored by headhunters. In France, Christine Lagarde, now head of the IMF, was so fed up with businessmen bleating about how they couldn't find enough women that she sent them all a list of 50, just off the top of her head.</p><p>By all accounts, boards would be all the stronger for more diversity; you need at least three women to make a difference. Research also shows that women tend to be more challenging to &quot;groupthink&quot;, more able to think &quot;blue sky&quot;. It sounds as though the accountancy-trained Noakes needs more of them with her on the RBS board. On an earlier radio programme on the same day last week, the Radio Five presenter asked if she would ever tell a banker that his bonus was too big. Her reply? &quot;I'm not sure I would be brave enough.&quot; Says it all.</p><p>As caution gripped the City floors, the betting stocks were given a kicking, with Sportingbet a particular target.</p><p>The shares dropped 1.75p to 46.5p as Investec analyst Paul Leyland cut the stock to &quot;sell&quot; over fears Ladbrokes' takeover approach was set to fall apart. The broker raised concerns that Sportingbet had not offloaded its Turkish arm. &quot;We believe it will be very difficult to disentangle Turkey 'cleanly', which we believe is critical to the deal consummating,&quot; he said.</p><p>The miners were under pressure as copper came under pressure. Simon Denham, head of spread-bettor Capital Spreads, said the metal &quot;has seen a real slowdown in demand and the metal is taking its biggest beating since the start of the global recession&quot;.</p><p>Kazakhmys was the worst performer, giving up 41p to close at 793p. Yet two miners unexpectedly shrugged off the torpor, with Fresnillo top of the blue chips at the close. After losses the previous day, it was up 72p to 1,586p.</p><p>China's purchasing managers' index figures cast a shadow over the session, as traders feared growth in the country could stall. Citi also released a note that said: &quot;China's vulnerability to global slowdown shouldn't be underestimated: total exports account for more than a quarter of GDP and the export sector employs a big army of labour.&quot;</p><p>This contributed to the continued decline of the FTSE 100. It had fallen 20 points the previous day, and gave up a further 68.36 points to finish the quarter at 5128.48. The Hong Kong index had suffered overnight, led lower by its banks, which was also reflected in UK trading. Worst on the day was Standard Chartered, which is also heavily exposed to Asia. UBS also yesterday shaved its 2011 forecasts by 4 per cent as it predicted trading revenues would fall, and reduced forecasts of balance-sheet growth from 15 per cent to 12 per cent and lifted impairment growth to 20 per cent. The shares closed down 71p to 1,287p.</p><p>Also down in the banking sector was Barclays. The group fell 7.8p to 161.35p on sector pressure, as well as news that it had been slapped with a lawsuit from HSH Nordbank over losses related to residential-backed security losses. The claim said Barclays misrepresented the quality of the underlying loans and seeks at least $40m.</p><p>UBS was instrumental in pushing testing group Intertek right to the bottom of the blue chips as it downgraded the stock from &quot;neutral&quot; to a &quot;sell&quot; after pointing out the sector was &quot;not immune to slowdown&quot;. UBS's analysts went on to say that margins were likely to be flat for the next 12 months. It also downgraded French peer Bureau Veritas. Shares in Intertek plunged close to 10 per cent, down 195p to 1,855p.</p><p>On the second line there were several more stocks in the blue. Among the top risers was RPC Group. The plastic-packaging company put out a bullish trading statement predicting a higher first half as its takeover of Superfos in December continues to pep up the results. Panmure Gordon said the medium-term outlook was &quot;better than most&quot;, helping the shares up 10p to 337p. Worst on the day was Afren, which gave up 9.75p to 81.25p.</p><p>In the wider market Alterian shares took a tumble after the group said its company review would not consider a sale of the business. New chief executive Heath Davies kicked off the review when he arrived earlier this month and the company said it should be wrapped up in time for its interim results in November. Yet the shares retreated 11.75p to close at 63p, a drop of almost 16 per cent, after the statement added: &quot;For the avoidance of doubt, the review is not investigating an option to sell the business.&quot;</p><p>Just Car Clinic decided it was time to hit the road, with the announcement it was to cancel its listing on the Alternative Investment Market. Shareholders in the repair group, whose website says it is &quot;smiles better&quot;, were not grinning as the shares plummeted 45 per cent following the news. The group said the &quot;perceived&quot; benefits of an AIM listing included the ability to tap the equity markets, a higher profile, and incentivisation of staff. &quot;After almost nine years as an AIM-quoted company, the company is not receiving these benefits to any extent that would justify the costs and management time associated with maintaining its status as an AIM company,&quot; it said. It is worrying news for the growth market, which saw 70 companies de-list in the first half. Just Car closed down 13p at 15.5p.</p><p>Also down on the AIM was San Leon Energy, though it actually had some good news to announce. The oil and gas group, which goes digging around in Poland and Morocco, was back in profit after a one-off payment from selling off an interest in the Rockall licence. Pre-tax profits for the first six months of the year hit €1.4m, up from a loss of €1.7m. Shares closed down 0.75p at 14.5p.</p><p>FTSE 100 Risers</p><p>Randgold Resources 6290p (up 160p, 2.6 per cent)</p><p>Along with Fresnillo, precious metals group manages to avoid sector rout.</p><p>United Utilities Group 624p (up 4p, 0.65 per cent)</p><p>Investors rush towards defensive embrace of the utility companies.</p><p>Autonomy Corporation 2550p (up 6p, 0.24 per cent)</p><p>Software company sneaks into positive territory as merger approaches.</p><p>FTSE 100 Fallers</p><p>Lloyds Banking Group 34.8p (down 1.6p, 4.4 per cent)</p><p>Financial services sector remains under pressure, while Evos cuts Lloyds to &quot;neutral&quot;</p><p>Man Group 168.5p (down 7.5p, 4.2 per cent)</p><p>Hedge fund to double job cuts to 400 just days after the group reveals significant customer outflows.</p><p>Burberry Group 1174p (down 27p, 2.2 per cent)</p><p>Designer clothes group feels more pain as investors fear for China growth .</p><p>FTSE 250 Risers</p><p>Domino's Pizza 445.5p (up 18.1p, 4.2 per cent)</p><p>Fast food group rebounds after two-day declines on some disappointing sales.</p><p>QinetiQ Group 116.7p (up 3p, 2.6 per cent)</p><p>Investors respond well to trading update as defence group says the first half was better than expected.</p><p>Electra Private Equity 1360p (up 6p, 0.4 per cent)</p><p>Buyout group announces sale of heating business Thermea Group.</p><p>FTSE 250 Fallers</p><p>Aquarius Platinum 177.3p (down 12.7p, 6.7 per cent)</p><p>US broker Citi cuts mining group's price target to 200p from 261p.</p><p>Millennium &amp; Copthoren Hotels 401.7p (down 13.3p, 3.2 per cent)</p><p>Company declines as sector comes under pressure.</p><p>Aegis Group 124.5p (down 2.7p, 2.12 per cent)</p><p>Shares slide after Natexis cuts company price target from 175p to 170p</p><p>The stock plummeted by 10.7p to 168.3p after Goldman Sachs downgraded its rating to &quot;sell&quot;. Mothercare has lost nearly 75 per cent of its value since December.</p><p>Criticising the company for its &quot;mid-market position&quot; compared with the supermarkets' offerings, the broker's analysts refused to paint a pretty picture of the future, warning that Mothercare's losses in the UK would only get worse, with like-for-like sales falling until 2014. </p><p>Goldman was similarly bearish about other high-street chains, saying it was increasingly cautious about the outlook for household and discretionary spending next year. As a result, it told punters in Halfords (whose stock fell by 12.7p to 327.1p) and Home Retail (down 5.8p to 100.1p) to get rid of their shares. Goldman also cut its advice on SuperGroup, owner of the Superdry and Cult clothing brands, to &quot;neutral&quot; and its shares fell by 10p to 624p.</p><p>Instead, Goldman recommended retailers exposed to emerging economies rather than just Europe. It kept luxury goods retailer Burberry on its conviction buy list, although the shares were still knocked back 66p to 1,341p.</p><p>Growing unease about last week's eurozone agreement, not helped by China appearing to play down the level of support it will provide to the region, pushed the FTSE 100 back 158.02 points to 5,544.22. However, overall the blue-chip index jumped more than 8 per cent in October – its best month since July 2009.</p><p>The banks were mired deep in the red, as Royal Bank of Scotland and Lloyds dipped 2.06p to 24.23p and 2.66p to 32.5p, respectively. Barclays fared slightly better after its third-quarter results, although it was still pegged back 5.9p to 195.3p.</p><p>The miners were hit by a double blow from the Far East. As well as Japan's attempt to rein back the strength of the yen prompting the dollar to rise and, therefore, commodity prices to drop, the sector was also left behind by pessimistic comments by the China Iron and Steel Association about demand in that country. Vedanta Resources ended up with the wooden spoon, falling 126p to 1,278p, and Kazakhmys moved 89.5p lower to 927.5p.</p><p>There was little bid chatter to get excited about. Dealers desperate for a gossip turned to the US, where vague speculation suggested that the retailer Bed Bath &amp; Beyond might become a takeover target.</p><p>In fact, the main topic of conversation was MF Global (spun out of Man Group in 2007) as the futures broker filed for bankruptcy in New York. Despite Man clarifying that it now has no links with MF Global, the world's largest hedge fund still retreated by 3.5p to 149.9p as market voices noted increasing nervousness ahead of next Thursday's interim results.</p><p></p><p>Homeserve was in a severe state of disrepair on the FTSE 250, slumping 27.88 per cent to 350p. The insurer, which describes itself as the &quot;fifth emergency service&quot;, had suspended sales at the weekend amid mis-selling concerns, following an internal review and one conducted by Deloitte.</p><p>An expansion to a project in Equatorial Guinea helped Ophir Energy, with the oil and gas explorer rising by 3p to 267.4p. At the other end, New World Resources continued its recent volatile run. After seeing its share price rise by a fifth last week, the miner fell back 77p, or 12.88 per cent, to 521p.</p><p>William Hill dropped 6.3p to 216p after the Numis Securities analyst Ivor Jones scorned the bookie's claims that problems at its online operations in Israel had been successfully resolved. Mr Jones warned: &quot;The consequences will not be clear for some months.&quot;</p><p></p><p>The news that Visa Europe had taken a 8.8 per cent stake in Monitise pushed the mobile payments provider up 2.75p to 38p on the Alternative Investment Market. The gossips were claiming that a similar situation could happen with its peers Earthport (which rose 0.5p to 18.5p) and Western Union, with the two having announced last month that they were working together.</p><p>The small-cap insurance consultancy Charles Taylor slipped 12p to 132p after admitting it would just fail to meet its full-year expectations. On the fledgling index, the office supplies group office2office blamed government cuts for the fact that it was also on course to miss its targets. Its shares duly fell 10.5p to 148.5p. </p><p>There was better news from the drug-maker Skyepharma, which rose 12p, or 24.49 per cent, to 61p after getting approval for its anaesthetic product Exparel from the US Food and Drug Administration.</p><p>The latest revival of the rumours claimed a private equity consortium could be considering making an offer worth between 160p and 180p a share with the aim of installing a new management team potentially led by Sir Stuart.</p><p>As well as previously heading up both the Top Shop-owner Arcadia and Marks &amp; Spencer, Sir Stuart is already familiar with Argos, having been chief executive of the catalogue chain in the late 1990s for a short period. One of his current roles is sitting on the advisory board of private equity firm Bridgepoint, whose retail investments include clothing group Fat Face and sandwich chain Pret a Manger.</p><p>Analysts were treating the vague gossip – which also suggested, once again, that Asda-owner Walmart may be interested – with a heavy pinch of salt. One questioned whether Sir Stuart would be attracted to the job, while another said any potential private equity bidder would want to wait and see how the company performs over the key Christmas period.</p><p>Home Retail touched a high during trading of 91.75p, before closing 0.8p ahead at 90.4p. It means the retailer has now added nearly 25 per cent in the last six sessions after having fallen to an all-time low of 72.45p.</p><p>Despite spending a lot of the day ahead, the FTSE 100 finished 16.08 points in the red at 5,489.34, failing to capitalise on Wednesday's rally of more than 3 per cent which was prompted by the central banks' attempts to boost liquidity.</p><p>Many of the heavyweight miners were struggling to keep hold of their recent gains following poor manufacturing figures emerging from China overnight. Vedanta Resources eased back 8p to 1,054p after Credit Suisse downgraded its rating to &quot;neutral&quot;, as the broker's analysts said they saw &quot;better risk reward elsewhere&quot;. </p><p>Lowering their earnings estimates across the sector, they instead named Xstrata (down 9p to 1,008p), Glencore (down 6.25p to 392.25p) and Rio Tinto (down 35p to 3,304p) as their favourites.</p><p>Burberry continued to rise as Seymour Pierce's Kate Calvert kept her &quot;buy&quot; recommendation. The upmarket brand climbed 38p to 1,308p despite its peer Coach – the luxury handbag maker favoured by Gwyneth Paltrow – sliding on its first day of trading in Hong Kong.</p><p>The Bank of England's insistence that the banks increase their capital buffer left many in the sector weaker, with Lloyds slipping back 39p to 759p. Royal Bank of Scotland retreated 0.44p to 20.55p even though Evolution Securities' Ian Gordon reiterated his &quot;buy&quot; advice, claiming there was &quot;overwhelming, absolute and relative evidence&quot; that it would not need to raise capital. </p><p>BP was pegged back 6.4p to 454.35p after announcing the sale of its Canadian natural gas liquids operations in a $1.67bn deal, the latest in a run of disposals to cover the costs of the Gulf of Mexico tragedy. The oil giant fell despite the revival of break-up talk, as Investec speculated its refining and marketing division could become a &quot;disposal or demerger candidate&quot;.</p><p>Rumours of a potential bid in the pipeline pushed Diploma towards the top of the FTSE 250, and although the vague whispers failed to mention a name, the services provider still advanced 12p to 345.4p.</p><p>There have been a number of takeovers among the capital goods companies recently, which prompted the scribblers at Credit Suisse to try to work out who could be next to receive an approach. </p><p>Estimating the sector's big names could have roughly $130bn with which to play with, the analysts chose six names as possible targets, including Spectris and Rotork, although they were pegged 11p to 1,241p and 12p to 1,796p respectively.</p><p>A warning that it was on track to miss expectations thanks in part to car crash numbers falling left Ai Claims in the red, as the accident management firm dropped 2.25p to 21.25p on the Alternative Investment Market.</p><p>Meanwhile, drinks group Global Brands' announcement that it hopes to delist its shares in an attempt to save cash prompted punters to jump ship, leaving it 64.44 per cent weaker at 0.4p.</p><p>There was some rare good news for tiddler Hot Tuna as the beleaguered surf wear company revealed a distribution deal for Australia and New Zealand, soaring 40 per cent to 0.05p as a result.</p><p>With United Rentals paying a premium of almost 60 per cent to RSC's share price, many in the City were scrambling for their calculators to reassess Ashtead's value. Numis Securities worked out that if the same asset valuation was applied, the US operations of Ashtead alone could be worth as much as 313p a share.</p><p>The tie-up was being seen as a vote of confidence for the US equipment rental market, which provides over 80 per cent of Ashtead's revenues. Numis reassured fears the move may end up harming the company, saying that it did not pose &quot;a significant competitive threat ... and may actually offer an opportunity to gain a small amount of market share&quot;.</p><p>There was also speculation further consolidation in the sector may see the group attract an admirer itself, with Numis' Mike Murphy saying that at some point &quot;you might think Ashtead could be on United Rental's list of companies it may try to buy&quot;.</p><p>Overall, it looked as if the FTSE 100 was going to finish the week on a high, but a late slump on – what else? – eurozone fears left it 13.51 points weaker at 5,387.34 by the bell. Despite rumours during the session that Standard &amp; Poor's could be about to downgrade a number of European countries, Royal Bank of Scotland and Lloyds charged ahead 0.36p to 20p and 0.43p to 24.5p respectively. Barclays actually had its credit rating cut, by Fitch, but it also moved higher, shifting up 0.95p to 171.45p.</p><p>The miners were still on the rebound, cheered by whispers continuing to swirl that China may be preparing to cut its reserve ratio for banks once again. With encouraging economic data coming out of the US as well, bouncing metal prices saw Antofagasta tick up 42p to 1,172p while Kazakhmys put on 27p to 874p.</p><p>At the foot of the top-tier index, Essar Energy slumped to yet another record low, with the Indian giant's slide of 8.8p to 184.9p meaning it has shed over 25 per cent in less than a fortnight.</p><p>Investors in the blue-chip index were clearly not in a charitable mood. Drugs giant GlaxoSmithKline was 15p lower at 1,443p despite announcing it was increasing the number of pneumonia vaccine doses it is selling at a discount for use in developing countries.</p><p>Meanwhile, Burberry dipped 10p to 1,138p as the luxury brand's chief executive Angela Ahrendts gave more than £500,000 in shares to her charity the Ahrendts-Couch Family Foundation, which it then sold.</p><p>A week in which it released its third profits warning of the year got worse for Logica yesterday. The IT services firm dropped 2.25p to 59.7p on the FTSE 250 amid claims its specialist staff means it has less chance of becoming a bid target.</p><p>Takeover chatter has been circling the group recently thanks to its share price shedding nearly 60 per cent in under 10 months, yet Panmure Gordon's George O'Connor queried why a bidder would be interested in its &quot;expensive experts&quot; when recent deals in the sector show &quot;they want generic skills&quot;.</p><p>While his football club Newcastle United may have slipped down the Premier League recently, Mike Ashley's Sports Direct was top of the mid-tier index last night. The retailer was pushed up 20p to 210p on relief that it has decided not to make a bid for Blacks Leisure, with the news leaving the struggling tents seller 0.25p worse off at 2p.</p><p>Hovis-owner Premier Foods ticked up 0.23p to 5.95p in the wake of its announcement late o